Im out in the estates.But I work around where you live.I havent seen your car around.Have you had the car up to Immokallee yet?Its only an 1/8th but at least its a track.

 

Anyone notice how high his MAP values are? At idle and just off of it, they're 70-80+ kPa. I reworked his timing tables (which I didn't like the look of in the first place) and then he made this log. His car is referencing parts of the table that I didn't even mess with because our cars don't really even touch them. For example, the car, when he takes off from a stop, is referencing the 900-1100 rpm 70-80+ MAP part of the main spark advance table (with only 5 or 6 percent TPS). There is hardly any load on the car at all here and the timing was set to be way retarded, in case he did put a load on it. I reworked that part of the table, but damn that MAP value is high, and it stays high. The only time I ever see it come down is when he is on the gas and lets off. His left and right bank are rich and it seems the right bank is running richer the whole time. I don't know if the valves need readjusted or he has a vacuum leak or what, but something isn't right (the overlap of the cam isn't helping matters either, but the banks should at least be somewhat similar). He said the car is much stronger now. The log that I worked off of for the first tune I sent him had 5-6* of KR at ALL times. I also wasn't very fond of the way the tuner did the PE a/f adjustments, but that's just me. Keep us updated on the progress.

 

i took the car out for a spin and it seemed pretty damn strong and that load feeling i was getting at idle seems to be gone but very slightly there but i mean very little benji helped me alot with my tune last night and i really appriciate that, could it be that my idle set screw is opened too much? which explains the high map? which can contribute when im at a stop at idle in drive the car wants to go? when i let go of the gas and let the car cruise without hitting the throttle itll get up to 15mph is that normal? thanks for all the help

 

A LE2 383 package makes 500hp+ on the engine dyno, and that's Golens dyno with their short block so something is up. This cam is tame on a 383 but makes for a hell of a street car setup, and it shouldn't cause that much idle issues.....

That much kpa at those loads is silly, something is up there. Did you use gaskets behind the TB? How are the intake manifold gaskets sealing? All the vacuum ports in the side of the intake sealed off? The EGR and AIR at the back of the intake sealed off? The too much idle set screw can do this as well. It sounds like a vacuum leak from what Benji is listing.

Bret

 

im pretty sure everything is blocked off correctly, ill try closing the throttle blades a bit more to see if that helps, and as for the intake manifold gaskets when i bought the short block from golen i sent off my heads ported intake and cam to golen so they can send it to as a long block but you never know..
what sucks is that im moving this sunday to GA and i have to drive the car there

 

Even their 'magazine' motor show lack luster performance, with excuses too.

Who has gotten a Golen LT1 engine and had good outcomes? They must not post on here.

 

I recommended that in the email because your IAC counts at idle are 16-17. The need to be around 40 at idle. I didn't notice anywhere in the log where you maxxed the IAC motor out, so I don't know how much that will help (still get them around 40 though). Also, I forgot to look in your program at what your in gear idle was set at. If the car is wanting to pull at a stop, I can bring the in gear idle down a tad. You wouldn't feel much of that if you had a stall though.

 

playa... who did the tune you were running before you sent it to sweetred

 

Shon,

It wasn't an excuse, that's what it made on their engine dyno. 509hp, just what it was designed to do.

The idea that i'm putting across is that the mechaincals in the motor are all the same, and when the supporting parts allow it to work properly it makes that power.

Also if you don't want to help the dude here, just don't post and start problems.

playa,

take some set screw out of that.... the throttle blades need to be closed almost for everything to work properly... even though the TB is simple little things can make it work and drive well or not.

Bret

 

i'll let playa decide if I have helped him at all.

 

Whatever man, you don't look like you have said anything "helpfull" to him in the whole thread..... 4.56's on a Driver? along with a bunch of comments about Golen's work, yeah sounds helpfull to me

Bret

 

Guess you cant see the PMs and the emails but hey, whatever.

4.56s in a driver is not that bad and makes for alot of fun. You need gears to get these boats out of the water. Some folks are willing to make winning combo's others are willing to provide maybe's and what if's.

And Golen's or anyone elses work for that matter speaks for itself in the performance numbers we all read here, isnt this all that we care about, what is posted on these boards

 

He said the dyno tuning was done by Jeremy Formato from www.fasterproms.com . I've heard of him, but don't know what kind of work he does (well, I kind of do now, but I'll keep that to myself ).

 

Why is everyone so affraid of a steep gear? I have 2 sets of ratios, a 3:73 on my spool and 4:56 on my street posi (or vice versa depending on my mood). I really like my 4:56's. On the highway it 'feels' a little flat when you are over 100 when compared to the 3:73's, but it's just the but-o-meter talking becase when I race my friends (who I use as controll cars, because they don't really change setups very often), I still win (or loose) by the same margin regardless of the gear. A steep gear just gets everything moving faster, and is easier on the drivetrain (more leverage). Some people may not like it though, but that aside it's only $200 for a ring and pinion. If you don't like it, just put the old ones back in (assuming you where smart and kept all the shims and pinion berrig, and mark the position of the ring gear to the differential, etc... in order), you need a new pinion nut and a new crush sleve (about $12), and about an hour and a half.
I think the real shame here is that this poor guy went through the time and effort to built a 383 that does not perform as well as a stock bottom end car with a good cam and head package. You know that buying crank, rods, pistons, berrings, and machine shop work had to be expensive. I dyno'd low (398 rwhp) with my old 190 head and a HR with junk lifters (I was expecting about 410... sorry for being picky. Probably would have got there if I wasn't running 20w-50), and still went high 11's @ 116.++ on my fisrt pass.
I know this might make some of you mad, but maby he should try a little more cam and/or have the heads looked at again by some one else.
I wish you luck with your project and hopefully it's something stupid (clogged injector, ignition curve, vacume leak etc...), but if everything checks out then you may need to consider a tear down for the winter.


P.S.
Shon Herron: Ditto

 

hey javier the tune was done by jeremy from faster proms hes a cool guy and seems like he knows what hes doing but i dont know i guess i could be wrong. 526 SS trust me it sucks that i dumped all the money into this car expecting it to run right only to run into more problems.. well not really problems because the car runs fine from what i can tell, Bret i adjusted the set screw and now the car does not feel like its on a load its alott better and the intake pop is gone.. i still havent closed it fully yet so i might do it some more tonight, so later ill run another datalog so you guys can tell me what you think, i really appriciate all the help benji, bret, sheron and 526ss and hopefully you guys can help me figure this out im just a fellow Fbody in need