383 LE2 dyno #'s
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 42
From: Oakland, CA
I finally got the car tuned by Bryan Herter today.
He found some power over the mail order tune by leaning it out and playing with the timing.
424 max RWHP SAE and 472 RWTQ (converter flash).
It made 434 RWHP std.
Base run with un touched mail order tune was 413 RWHP.
383, LE2 heads, LE2 cam, ported intake 58 MM TB, Delphi 37 lb inj, KOOKS headers, 3" true duals, A4, Yank 3200 stall, 3.42 gears, 17" WS6 wheels.
Bryan mentioned the plugs need to be changed and it had a "bang" at high RPM after being ran on the mail order tune with low timing for a while. The abuse the plugs are being put through is showing how bad they are. He feels that new plugs will fix it so a new set goes in next week.
He "estimated" the #'s would have been about 20 RWHP better for a 6 speed car and a new set of plugs might gain a couple of HP also.
As "ALWAYS" there is more in it but the only thing that matters is what the dyno and track times are. we all have the "woulda, coulda, shoulda" about their track times and dyno #'s, lol so i'll just have to live with these #'s.
He found some power over the mail order tune by leaning it out and playing with the timing.
424 max RWHP SAE and 472 RWTQ (converter flash).
It made 434 RWHP std.
Base run with un touched mail order tune was 413 RWHP.
383, LE2 heads, LE2 cam, ported intake 58 MM TB, Delphi 37 lb inj, KOOKS headers, 3" true duals, A4, Yank 3200 stall, 3.42 gears, 17" WS6 wheels.
Bryan mentioned the plugs need to be changed and it had a "bang" at high RPM after being ran on the mail order tune with low timing for a while. The abuse the plugs are being put through is showing how bad they are. He feels that new plugs will fix it so a new set goes in next week.
He "estimated" the #'s would have been about 20 RWHP better for a 6 speed car and a new set of plugs might gain a couple of HP also.
As "ALWAYS" there is more in it but the only thing that matters is what the dyno and track times are. we all have the "woulda, coulda, shoulda" about their track times and dyno #'s, lol so i'll just have to live with these #'s.
Very good numbers!!! Especially considering the tranny, and somewhat conservative heads/cam. 
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 968
From: Wichita, KS
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 227
Sweetness
I as well have a set of LE2 heads and LE3.2 cam. I'm actually taking them down to the machinist in the morning along with the everything else.
Lloyd/Bret, what rods, crank and pistons did you use?
I've got the Mahle PP, Eagle 6" Forged H beams and I cant decide what crank to get. I've had a hard time finding information on weights (exact)also.
Forged Eagle or Cast Scat? Callies?
Sounds like I need to get looking for some Kooks!! Damn good Mill!
Lloyd/Bret, what rods, crank and pistons did you use?
I've got the Mahle PP, Eagle 6" Forged H beams and I cant decide what crank to get. I've had a hard time finding information on weights (exact)also.
Forged Eagle or Cast Scat? Callies?
Sounds like I need to get looking for some Kooks!! Damn good Mill!
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
I think Lloyd picked this bottom end up built already from a guy who had it built. Normally I would suggest Mahle pistons, especially if you are building it locally. They are so much less work and nicer pistons and rings than anything else for the money.
Bret
Bret
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 227
I already purchased the Mahle's and Eagle H beams rods.
What I'd really like to have your input on is the Crank.
Currently I'm trying to find the best deal on a crank that is under 50#, has a .125" fillet radius and forged.
Seems like the reduction in rotating mass would be money well spent.
I'm planning on using a 4 bolt and a half fill on so I just can decide if I should go for the forged unit and if the lightweight unit is worth.
I think ideally I would like a forged, lightweight unit with a good shoulder dimension that is economic (~4-500$).
Any suggestions Bret?
What I'd really like to have your input on is the Crank.
Currently I'm trying to find the best deal on a crank that is under 50#, has a .125" fillet radius and forged.
Seems like the reduction in rotating mass would be money well spent.
I'm planning on using a 4 bolt and a half fill on so I just can decide if I should go for the forged unit and if the lightweight unit is worth.
I think ideally I would like a forged, lightweight unit with a good shoulder dimension that is economic (~4-500$).
Any suggestions Bret?
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,639
From: Mooresville, NC
