383/355 question
Re: 383/355 question
I just paid 1340 $ for a mix and match stroker kit (Crank , Rods, Pistons, Rings, Bearings all components forged) My machineshop bill will come in almost at 1000$ so add another 100 $ for fasteners (I'm adding main studs and new head bolts), and the shortblock comes in right around 2500$.
My price has me doing all the labor and assembly.
What I did was pre assemble the block with some cheapo bearings and liberal lube, mark where the clearancing goes, disasembled and clearanced the block , cleaned thoroughly and reassembled with the junk bearings to check my work. (I then grinded more if it needed it). After this I sent it all off for the block work and the balancing and polishing. My block work included boiling and cleaning the block, adding my 85 $ cat steel splayed caps, line hone, bore and finish cylenders, "0" deck the block, and freeze plugs and cam bearings.
When I pull my present motor (which is fine, it just has low compression at 9.8-10:1) I'll send my heads off to add the bigger 2.08 intake valves (they are AFR 190s) and to have them ported.
The rest of the car is ready for the motor already, all I have to buy extra are gaskets and new 36# injectors (30# presently).
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
If you keep the revs below 6500 and its all N/A that set-up would be fine for a long time, but I wanted more (as allways) so I stepped up to all forged.
My price has me doing all the labor and assembly.
What I did was pre assemble the block with some cheapo bearings and liberal lube, mark where the clearancing goes, disasembled and clearanced the block , cleaned thoroughly and reassembled with the junk bearings to check my work. (I then grinded more if it needed it). After this I sent it all off for the block work and the balancing and polishing. My block work included boiling and cleaning the block, adding my 85 $ cat steel splayed caps, line hone, bore and finish cylenders, "0" deck the block, and freeze plugs and cam bearings.
When I pull my present motor (which is fine, it just has low compression at 9.8-10:1) I'll send my heads off to add the bigger 2.08 intake valves (they are AFR 190s) and to have them ported.
The rest of the car is ready for the motor already, all I have to buy extra are gaskets and new 36# injectors (30# presently).
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
If you keep the revs below 6500 and its all N/A that set-up would be fine for a long time, but I wanted more (as allways) so I stepped up to all forged.
Last edited by WS Sick; Aug 9, 2006 at 09:04 AM.
Re: 383/355 question
Originally Posted by engineermike
Perry, just curious how does your car run? Which muffler do you have?
Sorry for the hijack.
Mike
Sorry for the hijack.
Mike
Around town it runs very smooth and has more torque than I need (figure of speech ,I can never have too much torque). It also can run on 87 octane without and hint of detonation. But those days of cheap gas will be behind me, my new motor will have a static CR of 11.2:1 and 8.5 dynamic.
My exhaust system consists of Hooke 1 3/4" LTs, a mufflex 3" "y" pipe with dual cut-outs for the track, and a 4 inch Hooker cat-back with the Aerochamber muffler that came with it. My exhaust system is 10 years old
, I had it on my 93 T/A before I had this car. I am thinking about moving to a true dual with an X and some Dynomax Ultra flow round mufflers.
Re: 383/355 question
[QUOTE=WS Sick]
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
QUOTE]
like it reallay matters, but, out of curiosity, what kind of mileage you get with that monster?
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
QUOTE]
like it reallay matters, but, out of curiosity, what kind of mileage you get with that monster?
Re: 383/355 question
[QUOTE=SSCamaro]
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
QUOTE]
like it reallay matters, but, out of curiosity, what kind of mileage you get with that monster?
Around town driving like a granny I can get 12 and 21 on the highway, If the foot is in it around town I can watch the gas gauge move down (joking) no , but it is horrible.
But cruising at 70 on the highway I can get close to 350 miles per tank. (on 87 Octane), When I go to the track I allways put in premium and mix in a gallon of the 104 no lead just for giggles.
Originally Posted by WS Sick
But if you want to talk "low buck" , my present 383 would really fit that bill.
What I did with it was buy the eagle cast steel crank 3.75 stroke. (recommend scat 9000 crank) Eagle 5140 I beam 5.7 rods (recommend Scat 4340 cap screw rods) and -18cc dish KB signature series pistons (recommend -7 cc or -12 cc KBs).
QUOTE]
like it reallay matters, but, out of curiosity, what kind of mileage you get with that monster?
But cruising at 70 on the highway I can get close to 350 miles per tank. (on 87 Octane), When I go to the track I allways put in premium and mix in a gallon of the 104 no lead just for giggles.
Re: 383/355 question
There is a HUGE range depending on what you are doing with the motor. First, a 355 isn't a "stroker". It's a 30 over bore stock stroke. Is your motor worn out or outright busted or are you looking to increase performance? Keep in mind that while increased displacement is always good, more power comes from the heads/cam/intake/exhaust. You could get a decent rotating assembly for $1,000 or so or you could spend $3-4,000 without even getting into exotica like Ti rods or billet cranks. You need to post what you are trying to do if you want any decent advice.
Rich
Rich
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