Lol, your talking to a guy with a big stalled th400. I could give a sht about dyno numbers. I was more alluding to the fact that LE/BRE are using your numbers as a marketing tool without using a more common correction number.

407 - 5% = 386rwhp SAE (About)

Still damn good numbers!

Brett,
We all know certian dynos can have conditions manually entered. Thus most dyno graphs come with the condtions listed under the respective runs. Even though a number lists STD or SAE the condtions can be manually entered. We've seen graphs with 32in posted on this board. We've also seen dynos in 30degree weather.

And as I stated above, it was more about touting a product while using inflated numbers. You knew that.

And FYI, locking his converter wouldn't change anything after the converter stops flashing/slipping. His 3400 converter should be done by 4100rpm. I believe Lloyd posted that, "You can see that these #'s are "real" though as opposed to some people that tromp it from a low RPM and then the dyno shows like 450-550 RWTQ before the TQ #'s settle back down to the "actual" engine TQ curve. This thing is REALLY making these TQ #'s."

So it shouldn't need the converter locked if it's past the stall speed.

 

There is still some slippage which results in lower HP numbers.

 

Is the "Big Stall Syndrome" anything like the "Big Watch Syndrome"?

 

Peak head flow numbers, peak dyno numbers, etc... that's all people want to see - they don't tell the entire story about an engine combination but since most on here only want to see "Peak" numbers that's what most companies use to market their product. LE/Brett, AI, Edelbrock, <insert manufacturer here> - they're not wrong for doing that, it's great marketing.

You talk to Lloyd, send an email to Brett - you'll buy from them period. They are 2 class, top notch guys that will go the extra length to help you out with your car. They good thing about these 2 that i've noticed is that bottom line they are car guys - enthusiasts.

I'm not really a dyno numbers type of guy - I didn't even print out my dyno sheet, I was satisfied when Bryan tuned it, nice and safe. I know I made 400/43x to the ground with 2 degrees less timing and a much much bigger stall. It's safe and the A/F is on - that's all I need - the track will tell me how the car is running from last year. Did I mess up with this converter size? Is the bigger y-pipe going to help? Is the 52mm TB helping? These are questions that can be answered when I make a full pass.

 

"The valvesprings should be looked at around 10,000 miles just to make sure they are ok. How many miles a year are you going to drive?"

Bret, I plan to drive about 10,000-11,000 a year. I was just wandering how much maintance these LE setups require because I don't plan on going to the track often at all. I was also wandering what kind of engine life the setups have if not used for track use. I just want a nice street bruiser for my 96 impala.

 

Well the correct way to look at valvespring life is the number of cycles that it travels. Problem is we dont have revolution counters, we have odometers. If the motor is at WOT and lots of RPM all the time it will wear the parts out faster. If you cruise the car around then the parts will last longer.

I would say 1 a year check the valvesprings, and you can replace them if need be. I go by the 10,000 mile rule to be super safe. They will probably run 20,000miles or more but it's better to be on top of the game than to have a spring fail and drop a valve.

Bret

 

Very true!