hempkat94z28

I am looking to rebuild my motor. My car runs good now but I want more power. I am posting this to get some opinions from everyone that has build either the 355 or 383. It will be built to run either way. It will have nitrous. I am looking for a hp range from 450-500 on motor.

Injuneer

Are you talking about 450-500HP at the flywheel, or rear wheel HP?

slomarao

rw of flywheel. Rw is will be expernsive, flywheel will be easy.

83tpi_3rd-gen(sri)

it all depends on the money you want to dump into it.you can have a 10sec. spray 355 for a decent amount of money.i also see your a A4 car,so your not gonna want to spend all your money on your motor if your tranny is stock.with a good heads an cam setup on spray with a tranny that will hold you will put up some good track numbers.383's just get to expensive for me.but to each there own.

hempkat94z28

450-500 fw would be fine considering the nitrous. I am really not worried about the money issue. If i need to save more money I will. I am a strong believer in you pay for what you get. I am just looking for realible setup that will perform and not worry about taking it to the track and having to come home and put more money it just to race the next week. I am also looking to have it on the street. So reliability is important. I personially am not a big fan of 383's. Cubes make power!

rskrause

383 is the sweet spot for an LT1 build. 396 runs into too many potential problems with rod to block or cam interference. No significantly increased expense to build a 383 and it will be more powerful (or at least have more torque) v. a 355. Reliabilty issues have more to do with the drivetrain than the engine (assuming good components put together right), unless you get crazy with the revs or the nitrous. You are going to need a built tranny, good converter, and a rear end if you expect it to last, especially with track use.

The heads, cam, and valvetrain are where the power comes from, you should put the most time, money and thought into those components. What ever you think it will cost, double it and how long think it will take, double that as well and you will be in the ballpark. There is also a big difference between a 400hp and a 500hp LT1 in terms of cost. Stock ported heads and a good cam/valvetrain upgrade is fine to get into the low 400's. 500hp is a step up. The logical way to do this is to set a budget and decide what you can afford. Then get the most you can for your money. Plan it all out in advance, do not try to piecemeal it - you will get off the path and risk not meeting your goals or spending more than you need to.

Rich

Injuneer

A bit confusing.... you asked for info on a 355 vs 383, then told us you're not a fan of a 383.... and then said "Cubes make power!". What am I missing here? Why did you ask the question in the first place, if you already made up your mind?

hempkat94z28

To be honest I really haven't! Which is why I asked. But the main question was to get peoples opinions. Who has the best stroker kit out there right now?
Sorry about the confusion Injuneer.

SS RRR

Oh don't mind him. He gets a bit cranky every now and again.
Best stroker kit for the money is probably CompStar. I'd stay away from Eagle. I have an Eagle crank in my 396 and I had some fitment problems with the flywheel and pilot hole for the bushing/bearing. Besides their rods have a tall bolt profile which makes clearancing the block more of a chore and a higher risk of breaking into a water jacket. The CompStar rods are approx .100 shorter which makes all the difference.
I'd definitely vote 383. If drivability is a concern then the more cid you have the better your powerband can be with the right components.

texastransam96

this is absolutely no lie.. i recently did a build on a transam and that is exactly what happened.. when all was said and done i had doubled my investment and double the time invested

RedLT4Mike

This is my take on a 450-500 hp LT1:

Forged 383
12.5 - 1 compression
Ported AFR 227 heads
Shaft Mount Rockers
Single Plane EFI conversion
Fast XFI or Accel Gen 7
250/260 ish duration .650ish lift 10x LSA Solid Roller
42lb injectors
1 7/8in headers

Thats just the meat and bones of the build IMO

Factor in trans, rear end, driveshaft, suspension to put the power down.

Seriously dude, ask yourself if you really want to see that kind of project to
the end, or if you'll be just another one of those guys who gets part of the way
through the build and decides to part it out at a big loss.

By the time it's all said and done, the money you will put into it to do it right
will be enough to put a nice down payment on a C5 Z06.

Another option would be to do a mild street/strip build.

355 w/ stock crank and forged pistons/rods
LE1 heads/cam (ported stock heads)
Trans rebuild to handle the power 3200 stall
Stock Intake Manifold
Reuse your Long Tubes
Comp Pro Mag roller rockers
Retain Stock PCM

This will net you 380hp or so, and you can spray a 100 shot on top of it.
It's lots of fun, takes less time to complete, it's less of a commitment, and
it's cheaper.

SS RRR

If you are referring to flywheel numbers then that kind of compression is not necessary. 11.0 or 11.5 will be fine for that power level.

Injuneer

If he's only looking for 450-500HP at the flywheel, most of those parts/specs are not required. I'd say only the injectors.... and even those are a bit of overkill.

hempkat94z28

This is probably going to be the route i am going to go. 355 with 6 inch rods forged pistons a set of AFR 210 or 227 heads with ls6 springs and still debating the cam dimensions. CR will be around 11.1, ported intake with 58 mm throttle body. Then will be throwing a 150 shot. I think this will get me close to the mark I am looking for. What do you all think?