Alec29

I got a 1995 camaro z28 6 speed, it has a hurst shifter, k&n cold air induction kit, bbk shorty unequal length headers, put new spark plugs in and newer 02 sensors so its getting a nice tune up, but im curious with all that done and like a mail order tune what torque/hp rating will i get, I got a 2015 rt charger nagging me saying he'd kill me and everyone else around my neighborhood is saying the same, wanted to suprise some people, any advise would help too,
Thanks

Injuneer

2015 Charger R/T has 370 HP / 395 lb-ft, with an 8-speed automatic, 4,381 #. Road tests show 5.1 second 0-60, and 13.6-seconds @ 105 MPH.

With just a CAI, shorty headers and a tune, it's going to be a tough match. Your looking at 315-325 HP. You are 45-55 HP shy, but do have a significant weight advantage Do you have a catback exhaust? Any suspension mods? Decent tires? Comes down to traction.... both cars are going to shred the tires. Or is this on a prepped track with good drag tires? And he has the advantage on shifting.... you will need high skill level to match the 8-speed. If not on a track, from a stop or from a roll? Strongly recommend you run it at the track.

If it's the R/T Scat Pack, it's got 485 HP..... no contest.

AeroGunzF1

As long as the car is the best it can be mechanically and your at the limit of what the car can handle with your level of driving forget about who's faster blah blah. Race the track and run a stock size d.o.t legal drag radial with healthy shot of nitrous (100-125 wet shot with good a/f ratio) and you'll give him a run. Most guys running on the street and track too are limited by traction. I've been handed a lot of victories (and cash) from the 600 HP car wheel spinning silliness in the lane next to me. If you spin ...you lost as long as the other dude didn't. Make sure you run a set of gears (3.73ish stay away from 4.10s in a street car) All this is the most you financially can probably do without running head or cam work. Drag radials at the right temp are invaluable no matter the situation as long as your skills launching a fairly high HP stick car are equal with what the car can actually do. If the dude in the charger spins cause he doesn't know how to control the power...it don't matter the HP you gott him. Cai, free mods, 3 inch exhaust long tube headers no cats and gears along with decent tune and 345 is about as much HP you can get from an LT1 without heads/cam and or nitrous. If you can't afford heads or can work yet Invest in a $600ish nitrous setup and get good with knowing how to use it. Its the "cheapest" way and most fun knowing you have 100 to whatever-doesnt-explode extra HP as the track surface (prepped or street) and opponent requires.
My dad said even a lawnmower can be fed a bottle if u know what you're doing and don't get silly.

My 2 cent...

Alec29

[QUOTE=Injuneer;6989186]2015 Charger R/T has 370 HP / 395 lb-ft, with an 8-speed automatic,

I've seen like 4 or more videos of chargers dyno'd at around 356hp and 340-347ft/lbs ish i don't know how they got the rating of that from completely but also the 1/4 mile I seen of them are in the high 13's like 13.8 so I figured it would both be a good match because my weight/power ratio. Running 3.42 gears and I hear that the lt's are actually pretty torquey with bolt ons like cam, heads, Cai, headers and be be pretty much close to 400hp, I'm not planning on doing a whole lot to my car but enough, btw suspension wise I'm not completely sure all is I got drilled and slotted rotors and 17 or 18 inch z06 gün metal rims

Injuneer

[QUOTE=Alec29;6989233]The figure I published it HP at the flywheel, just like your car has 275 HP at the flywheel. Manufacturers publish flywheel HP, calculated per a standard of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE net) and reflect the HP as installed in the specific vehicle, with all standard accessories, factory air intake and factory exhaust installed.

I suspect that the dyno numbers you posted are chassis dyno = rear wheel HP numbers. Those numbers reflect the HP lost through the drivetrain, typically 13-15% for a manual trans and 15-18% for an automatic trans. Your car in stock condition would typically make 240-245 HP at the rear wheels, so figure you are now, with your limited mods ~275 HP at the rear wheels

A chassis dyno of 356 HP would equate to a flywheel HP of about 420 HP at the flywheel, indicating the Hemi engine is under rated, and capable STOCK of significantly more HP than the factory indicates.

Your suspension mods aren't significant.... larger diameter wheels typically eat up more HP, slowing the car down. Brakes don't come into play.

I'm aware of the HP capabilities of the LT1 engine with all those mods you listed, but you specifically asked about ONLY "a hurst shifter, k&n cold air induction kit, bbk shorty unequal length headers". Are you now saying you have all the these mods you listed?

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...mi-test-review

If you are so sure it's an even race go for it. Be sure to come back with the results.

Alec29

[QUOTE=Injuneer;6989239]Nice explanation couldn't have said it better lol I understand what ur talking about and yes I do have all the mods that are listed( except for a tune for now) I was told dodge is under-rated as well but through my experience of what all I have studied like for example the 1/4 mile for the Dodge charger. I have also raced a 2008 rt challenger 6 speed and it was a good race I had him at the start on a dig and did a 30 roll but he cheated but I still kept up with him, all I had then was just a Cai, I had a lot of people say my car sounds like it has been cammed even the guy I raced in the challenger said my car has some *****, plus my car I got it from corvette city in Bowling Green Kentucky and was in the holley ls fest so idk what all the guy has done to it but I'm giving it a full tune up

Injuneer

Your 2nd post listed "cam, heads CAI, headers"? Is that what you actually have? Totally unclear.

Not really important, since you appear to feel you know everything you need to know. Why did you even bother to post your question? I don't get it.

Alec29

Not trying to sound like I know everything and cam wise I'm not so sure what I got stock or non stock, but Cold air intake and headers I do have installed Was just looking for advice on this topic and fully explain myself and my experiences. I will post a video racing the 2015 charger soon as I can just to clarify all this. Thinking about getting a bigger throttle body and maf to flow better.

Fatdog2

Are your headers hooked up to a full exhaust?Sorry if I miss read your sig.If you did.You can pick up an extra 10-20 ponies with the 3inch cat back alone.Years ago some members were running in the high 12's with the stock throttle body.Not sure on the maf though.It takes tons of research from this forum and other sources to dial in the right combo for each set up.Remember the air is traveling into your tb at about 200 mph. I think.My02.

Alec29

I bet they are hitting get hight 12's I'm looking forward to getting there and when you mean full exhaust do you mean 3 inch aftermarket exhaust like a slp and you pipe and all, my car has 2.5 before the cat through the headers and 2.75" after it, I'm looking into getting a different MAF for more air flow and a different throttle body and maybe some comp ultra gold 1.6 rockers they have a certain name just can't remember, if I was to go for a throttle body it would have to be holley. Through all of this tho I'm hoping to beat the new 2015 rt charger with my mods and lighter way I might get him, he's been talking about bunch of smack and so Im just gonna show him up with a simple bolt on car and prove the performance of the z28 lt's

Injuneer

Read a bit more before you start wasting your money. Stock MAF sensor is adequate for 500 HP. Don't touch the screen. Stock 48mm throttle body is good for over 400 HP. 52mm will support up to 500 HP. 58mm is total overkill below 500 HP.

The 1.6X full roller rockers are a good idea. The original 1.6X aluminum roller rockers for the 1996 LT4 were branded GM Performance Parts but were made by Crane. The Comp Cams Ultra Gold are similar. Many better rockers (IMHO) on the market today, example Comp Cams Ultra-Pro Magnum.

Since you don't know if your engine has a more aggressive cam, have you checked to see what rockers are in it now?

2.75" is the diameter of the stock crimp-bent intermediate pipe. You want at least a 3" mandrel-bent intermediate pipe. You can also get 3.5" and 4.0" catbacks, but again, you don't need it for 400 HP.