1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
Reference Shoebox's 95 starting system wiring diagram - link already provided in an earlier post. It shows the TDRelay with two yellow wires on the supply side, and a purple wire to the starter and a yellow/black "activation" wire from the TDModule.
I've never had to access these components, but the 1994 factory manual shows the TDR and the hatch relay being to the right of the glove box. Check there. I have no idea if 94 and 95 are the same, or if I am even reading the manual diagram correctly.
I've never had to access these components, but the 1994 factory manual shows the TDR and the hatch relay being to the right of the glove box. Check there. I have no idea if 94 and 95 are the same, or if I am even reading the manual diagram correctly.
But it has a yellow, brown, purple, and black/yellow wire.
C1 is the solid yellow wire that didn't have 12V going to it with the transmission in the park position, and key in start.
C2 is the yellow and black wire, and that has no voltage going to it since It's the ground wire
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
C1 yellow wire come directly from the ignition switch, through the splice and the connector shown in the diagram. Start checking the voltage on the yellow wire closer to the ignition switch.
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Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
Do you still hear a click under the dash when you try to start? If so, can you confirm that the click is coming from the TDR?
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
I've looked at that diagram a hundred times already, and I checked the TDR.
But it has a yellow, brown, purple, and black/yellow wire.
C1 is the solid yellow wire that didn't have 12V going to it with the transmission in the park position, and key in start.
C2 is the yellow and black wire, and that has no voltage going to it since It's the ground wire
But it has a yellow, brown, purple, and black/yellow wire.
C1 is the solid yellow wire that didn't have 12V going to it with the transmission in the park position, and key in start.
C2 is the yellow and black wire, and that has no voltage going to it since It's the ground wire
I'll never understand why this is so difficult.
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
You indicate you looked at the diagram "a hundred times already", but then you indicate "C2 is the yellow and black wire, and that has no voltage going to it since It's the ground wire". Go back and look for and 101st time. A1 is the tellow black ground from the TDM. C2 is the yellow wire that feeds through the neutral safety switch.
I'll never understand why this is so difficult.
I'll never understand why this is so difficult.
I can see that from the ignition there's a yellow wire going to the TDR and when it's working properly it'll close the circuit on the purple wire.
Then that yellow wire from the fuse block is going to the NSS to the TDR to close the circuit.
This is what I'm looking at:
C1: Yellow - No voltage with the car in park and ignition in start position
C2: Brown - From the NSS
A1: Yellow/Black - Ground
A2: Purple - To the solenoid
It's not difficult to understand, my problem is I do not see a second yellow wire. Only thing I can think of for that yellow wire is from the fuseblock to the
NSS and seeing if that has any power. Other than that I know it splits off from the wiring harness in two different spots
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
You re correct - my mistake, the wire from the NSS is brown... but it goes to C2.
You stated that the yellow/black wire goes to C2, it's a ground, and hence would have no voltage. The point I'm trying to make here is that the yellow/black wire goes to A1 (which you apparently have now discovered), and no one told you to check the voltage on A1. We told you you need 12V on C1 with the key in "start" position, and 12V on C2 with the key in the "start" position, and the shifter in the correct position.
You stated that the yellow/black wire goes to C2, it's a ground, and hence would have no voltage. The point I'm trying to make here is that the yellow/black wire goes to A1 (which you apparently have now discovered), and no one told you to check the voltage on A1. We told you you need 12V on C1 with the key in "start" position, and 12V on C2 with the key in the "start" position, and the shifter in the correct position.
Last edited by Injuneer; Aug 10, 2014 at 04:36 PM.
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
You re correct - my mistake, the wire from the NSS is brown... but it goes to C2.
You stated that the yellow/black wire goes to C2, it's a ground, and hence would have no voltage. The point I'm trying to make here is that the yellow/black wire goes to A1 (which you apparently have now discovered), and no one told you to check the voltage on A1. We told you you need 12V on C1 with the key in "start" position, and 12V on C2 with the key in the "start" position, and the shifter in the correct position.
You stated that the yellow/black wire goes to C2, it's a ground, and hence would have no voltage. The point I'm trying to make here is that the yellow/black wire goes to A1 (which you apparently have now discovered), and no one told you to check the voltage on A1. We told you you need 12V on C1 with the key in "start" position, and 12V on C2 with the key in the "start" position, and the shifter in the correct position.
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
Re: 1995 Z28 Auto will not crank
Worse case scenario is I do the 98 dash swap a little sooner than planned
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