Hey Scottz, are those the same spacers needed for draglites? And cant I just use my lugs I got? Also 5/16 is for the back and 7/32 is for the front right? Would that be the same for a 15x4 wheel up front? And are all these part #'s for summit? Thanks Mike

 

Those are Summit p/n's. I couldn't tell you which spacers for sure, since I've never run them, but we have them. They are cheap, and come in packs of two, so you may want to pick up a few various sizes, or get them locally after you determine the size you need.

The draglites use an extended shank type lug, so your factory acron lug nuts won't work. The shank lugs have a shank that goes through the wheel and seats agains the axle flange, as opposed to a conical seat in the wheel itself. They aren't interchangeable.

Yeah, there is a handling fee. 9 bucks for handling on 4 wheels beats the hell out of the 15/wheel I pay to get them out the door.

Scott

 

I run prostars, 15x3.5 in front and needed a spacer in front. I run 15x10 7.5"bs in back, no spacers needed in back but i did have to grind the calipers or else they dig into the rim.. i also had to grind the calipers for my draglites 15x8 5.5" bs to fit. I would also recommend longer wheel studs for the front with the spacer as there isn't much thread left after that.

 

As this information is useful to me and quite a few other people whom are probably considering this purchase, I have a couple of questions, mainly concerning wheel studs/lugnuts.

Ok, Longer wheel studs. Recommended for the front because of the spacer. What about the rear??

WHAT IS NEEDED TO PASS TECH AT THE TRACK??? LONGER STUDS OR NO??

What about the longer studs. Will they be so long as to interfere with the standard acorn setup on street rims??

Is there a happy medium that will pass tech and not intefere with the street setup??

Sorry, these are questions that I've never been able to find a straight answer before.

 

You only need spacers in the front. That's what puts the threaded portion of the stud too deep in the "shank" of the "extra long shank mag style" lug nuts that you have to run. They will NOT pass NHRA tech, which requires that the threaded portion of the stud engage approx 1/2" of the threads in the HEX portion of the lug nut... engagement in the shank will not count.

Lingenfelter and GM Perofrmance Parts sell a 2.67" 12mm-1.5 stud, with the required knurl for the 4th Gen hubs. These can be installed by knocking the old studs out of the hub with a hammer (technically you are supposed to "press" them out to avoid damaging the wheel bearings), and pulling the new studs in with an "old lug nut, installed backwards, and a washer, using an air impact wrench.

After you have installed the longer studs, you will have a problem if you go back to "street" wheels....

LGE 2.67" studs, on ZR1 wheels..... ughhhh

I will let someone else answer for the rear wheels. I had to grind the fins off the caliper, but did not require a spacer. I already had 2" 12mm-1.5 studs in my Strange axles, and they were not long enough. I went to 3" 1/2-20 studs instead.

As noted above, NHRA requires that the threaded portion of the stud engage the lugnut by "one diameter" (~1/2") inside the HEX portion of the nut. They will not allow the thread engagment in the shank to be counted. Whether you get caught depends on the track, and how thorough they are, but I know at Englishtown (NJ) they caught my stockers.

Yes. As noted above, they will need to stick through the acorns, so you need an "open-end" acorn lugnut, instead of the closed, decorative stock acorns. I actually drilled through the closed ends of my AFS/ZR1 lugs, and threaded them so they would fit over the studs. Front looks like crap, the rear is "OK" because I got a "duplex" acorn, which is twice as deep as the standard acorn.

3" studs in duplex acorns.

 

Wow, thanks Injuneer. I appreciate the time it took you to write that up. Not what I wanted to hear on the technical side, as I don't really want wheel studs sticking out of my lugnuts. I guess it's going to be descision time soon on whether I want to stay mostly street or compromise for the strip.

On another note, your rear wheel setup didn't look that bad. Can the front be made to look somewhat similar???

Maybe I'll just swap wheel studs everytime I head to the track.

 

I'm running telstars and revtime has the prostarts, and IMHO, 165r 15 tires look a 100 times better on a 15x6 rim than a 15x4. I do run skinnies daily (80 miles/day) and I use them in all weather. That includes doing 75 mph down the highway in the rain. Also, I plan on running them all winter. So far we've had some snow and they've been fine, I just had to take it easy.

 

So you can fit a 165 on a 15x6 and still looks good? So I can run skinny up front on a 15x6 and that would look o.k.? What about 15x5? Anyone got pics of these wheel and tire sizes? Would back spacing be the same on a 15x5or6 as a 15x3.5? And would I still need to run a spacer up front with a 15x5or6? Thanks for all your help guys. Mike

 

Telestars...........I don't like the 5" backspacing on the rear, but.......

No new wheel studs or the like needed right??? Just bolt on and go for the most part??

 

I was able to use the "duplex" lugnuts on the rear because the rear studs on my Strange axles are 1/2"-10 threads. That is the only size I could find the "duplex" lugs in - they are "Excalibur" from JEG's. I still have 12mm-1.5 threads in the front, and I could not find 12mm duplex acorns.

With the Weld DragLites, or the Pro-Stars, the backspace will not change the need for spacers in the front and grinding the caliper fins in the back. The "interference" is with the center disc of the wheel, and the "knuckle" where the center disc rolls over to become the rim. That interference point does not move with a different backspace. Or maybe its time for Mark Williams brakes and spindles

I really do NOT like the appearance of the Pro-Stars with the spacers. I think the 15x3.5 1.75" BS with the spacer sticks out too far. I'm going to see if there is some way to "flatten" the brake pad spring, and maybe take a little off the end of the steering knuckle bar.

Front Pro-Star

 

Telestars aren't very light, centerlines come in at about the heaviest drag rims out there. Wheel weight is often overlooked but shouldn't be. I just made a comment about wheel weights located at http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...readid=203742. 5" backspacing is not very good for our applications.

Considering Bogarts look like a show rim and is one of the biggest mods that EVERYONE sees, even from an astetic viewpoint, it is the only good choice. Take a look at this link for a few good shots of Bogart RT rims http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ghlight=bogart


Bogarts cost a bit more, but are set up FOR F-bodies and are the lightest on the market bar none. For the price difference, I see guys trying to gain a tenth of a second...and scrimp on a set of rims and overlook the benifits of the lighter rim saving you additional times. Putting a set of telestars is like adding approx 125 lbs to your car over a P1 Bogart set of rims.

Good luck with your decisions.

Steve

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by lt1camaroman93
[B]I run prostars, 15x3.5 in front and needed a spacer in front. I][list=1]
What size spacer? You didnt have to use longer studs? Also I dont think anyone answered this. 15x5or6 does this rim require a spacer in front, it still needs the same backspacing 1.75, right?

 

No.... As I answered above, the backspacing does NOT affect the need for the spacer on the DragLites and Pro-Stars. And, you can't use a 1.75" backspace on a 5" or 6" wide wheel.... it would put the outside of the wheel 1.5-2.5" outside the fender.

When you increase the width of the wheel, and the outside of the wheel is already in the correct place, the extra width gets added to the backspace. You would be looking at 3.25" to 3.75" BS on the 5" wide wheel and 4.25" to 4.75" BS on the 6" wide wheel.