View Poll Results: which lsa?
112



20
37.74%
110



33
62.26%
Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll
112 vs 110 lsa
I went 11.70's with the 224/230 in an A-4 with what I found out to be a really crappy converter. Just get it the way it comes. If you want a lopey idle, have Brian or Ion set the idle at 725. Mine sounded way bigger than it was at that rpm. Peak power was at 5800 with 1.6 rockers and all the bolt ons. The 110 would be a little nastier with no vacuum probs with that little duration. BTW Joelius, good call on staying with the smaller cam over some of the bigger grinds. There is an uneven loss of torque on the bottom for the small gains on the top. I whipped
cc306 guys and 847 guys every time.
cc306 guys and 847 guys every time.
Last edited by chrism400; Dec 4, 2006 at 09:23 PM.
I went 11.70's with the 224/230 in an A-4 with what I found out to be a really crappy converter. Just get it the way it comes. If you want a lopey idle, have Brian or Ion set the idle at 725. Mine sounded way bigger than it was at that rpm. Peak power was at 5800 with 1.6 rockers and all the bolt ons. The 110 would be a little nastier with no vacuum probs with that little duration. BTW Joelius, good call on staying with the smaller cam over some of the bigger grinds. There is an uneven loss of torque on the bottom for the small gains on the top. I whipped
cc306 guys and 847 guys every time.
cc306 guys and 847 guys every time.
And yea, thats exactly why im shying from a bigger cam. the low-end, top-end handoff isnt worthwhile, until you get better heads of course. VERY nice times by the way.
To be honest if i could go back i'd get the same cam he has. I've had a 230/236, and my current BRE cam, which is supposed to be a midrange torque monster, and i'd still take my buddie's cam over mine. It drives great, pulls hard, sounds mean (if you care about that, which I don't). Also it'll make 375 ish rwhp if its setup correctly.
To be honest if i could go back i'd get the same cam he has. I've had a 230/236, and my current BRE cam, which is supposed to be a midrange torque monster, and i'd still take my buddie's cam over mine. It drives great, pulls hard, sounds mean (if you care about that, which I don't). Also it'll make 375 ish rwhp if its setup correctly.
cant wait to order this thing
with 1.6 rockers lift is .536/.544 (at least on the 112, im assuming same for 110). I plan to shift about 6100 rpm... a little low, but i wanna keep it in one piece. It should be good for 6500 though from what ive read. Basically I want a lot of mid and peak power (3500-6000), but i dont want to lose all my torque down low either.
It has been proven to many times.(Except in PS) that a 108 will make more power on a street driven car with the right duration and ICL in other words the right cam.
Someone elses set up may not be like yours(by a tick) and their set up not work for you.Also could their set up have produced more with a different cam?
I am no cam expert but i know a little
. If you have not bought the cam yet I would look at the 224/230 XE 3100 lobe series since your not wanting to rev it over 6100. It's an aggressive lobe so you will need GOOD valvetrain, if you run the 1.6 RR's lift will be .605 on the intake and .622 on the exhaust ( you could run a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust). On the LSA I would run it tight on a 108 like 1racerdude suggested (most SBC setups like around a 108 LSA to be optimum). The things you listed that you want to attain deals with overlap. There are a few things that increase overlap and thats a Tight LSA and Increased overlap. A 224/230 on a 108 will Idle better than a 234/240 on a 111, also aggresive lobes seem to get better control over overlap becuase they open and close the valves quicker which results in a having to have better valvetrain which cost money. You get what you pay for, but I have seen 383 Lt1 withs heads and supporing mods make over 415RWHP with a small 224/230 3100 lobe cam with great idle and street manners.
. If you have not bought the cam yet I would look at the 224/230 XE 3100 lobe series since your not wanting to rev it over 6100. It's an aggressive lobe so you will need GOOD valvetrain, if you run the 1.6 RR's lift will be .605 on the intake and .622 on the exhaust ( you could run a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust). On the LSA I would run it tight on a 108 like 1racerdude suggested (most SBC setups like around a 108 LSA to be optimum). The things you listed that you want to attain deals with overlap. There are a few things that increase overlap and thats a Tight LSA and Increased overlap. A 224/230 on a 108 will Idle better than a 234/240 on a 111, also aggresive lobes seem to get better control over overlap becuase they open and close the valves quicker which results in a having to have better valvetrain which cost money. You get what you pay for, but I have seen 383 Lt1 withs heads and supporing mods make over 415RWHP with a small 224/230 3100 lobe cam with great idle and street manners.
I'm a big fan of small cams, too...Mine is a 226/234 on a 111 spec'd by Joe Overton and ground by Erson...Runs the times in my sig, gets 20 mpg on the highway, has a nice choppy idle at 900 and can be driven anywhere, and it does...I have the cam card, too so I'm guessing you, or anyone can call Erson and order it up...
--Alan
--Alan
I am no cam expert but i know a little
. If you have not bought the cam yet I would look at the 224/230 XE 3100 lobe series since your not wanting to rev it over 6100. It's an aggressive lobe so you will need GOOD valvetrain, if you run the 1.6 RR's lift will be .605 on the intake and .622 on the exhaust ( you could run a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust). On the LSA I would run it tight on a 108 like 1racerdude suggested (most SBC setups like around a 108 LSA to be optimum). The things you listed that you want to attain deals with overlap. There are a few things that increase overlap and thats a Tight LSA and Increased overlap. A 224/230 on a 108 will Idle better than a 234/240 on a 111, also aggresive lobes seem to get better control over overlap becuase they open and close the valves quicker which results in a having to have better valvetrain which cost money. You get what you pay for, but I have seen 383 Lt1 withs heads and supporing mods make over 415RWHP with a small 224/230 3100 lobe cam with great idle and street manners.
. If you have not bought the cam yet I would look at the 224/230 XE 3100 lobe series since your not wanting to rev it over 6100. It's an aggressive lobe so you will need GOOD valvetrain, if you run the 1.6 RR's lift will be .605 on the intake and .622 on the exhaust ( you could run a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust). On the LSA I would run it tight on a 108 like 1racerdude suggested (most SBC setups like around a 108 LSA to be optimum). The things you listed that you want to attain deals with overlap. There are a few things that increase overlap and thats a Tight LSA and Increased overlap. A 224/230 on a 108 will Idle better than a 234/240 on a 111, also aggresive lobes seem to get better control over overlap becuase they open and close the valves quicker which results in a having to have better valvetrain which cost money. You get what you pay for, but I have seen 383 Lt1 withs heads and supporing mods make over 415RWHP with a small 224/230 3100 lobe cam with great idle and street manners.


lol its not a trailer queen i swear, i was on my way to the track 400 miles away. i could of drove there, but stock rearend with slicks........not a good idea