how much did that run you, and do you know how it would run on a car with stock displacement and heads?


im still pretty set on the 224/230 @ 110 but i want to keep my options open. not ordering this until prolly february anyway.

 

The smaller the heads the bigger the cam has to be to make the same HP.

 

this is true, but like stated... the handoff of low-end/high starts getting negative once you hit a certain(unknown) size with a cam. Id like the most total hp/tq throughout the entire curve, not just the most peak hp like many people here want. Id rather not spend another $400 on valvetrain components to run a more abusive cam and only make 10 extra hp. Im not THAT concerned about hp, im trying to get the best setup for my money i appreciate your input

 

Nice car, but the trailer is the what makes the picture.

 

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...tio/index.html

Read this and ya will see where ya might be wrong with your ideas.Some info are old wives tales. It depends on how the engine is designed and built.

 

You're not going to gain very much peak power with getting the 224/230 cam with extra lift. The extra lift could come in handy if you went with ported heads in the future, but it's going to be hard on the valvetrain.

 

I got the cam in a package type deal with the head work done by E.B.Porting...I dunno what the cam would cost by itself...Its a fairly small cam for a 383 so I would think it would be great in a stock displacement set up, but with stock heads I can't say, seeing as mine are stock castings with 2.00/1.56 valves and have been extensively ported...I would save for both heads and cam before I just do the cam...We can't really compare apples to apples here...The 503 on a 110 is what my neighbor runs in his stock displacement car, BUT he's got LPE ported stockers...He runs mid 12s full weight, no reduction leather int, etc, etc...but hes got the heads done by LPE, too...

--Alan

 

If you can't afford these things I would do a 1.6 RR or a 1.7 RR setup on the car. In my opinion some of the above is MANDATORY.

The extra lift would help peak power some but Lift is a function of area. Basically the midrange will improve in hp and TQ over its lower lift partner. The Tighter LSA will improve power production as well. There is only one given LSA on a motor that gives the best curve, and it most cases on a SBC its around 108.
I would rather go with a Small cam on a Tight LSA than a Big cam on a Wide LSA JMO.

 

Ben,

That extra lift of the 1.7's will help but the quicker valve motion and heavier rockers will not so in the end you might be slower due to valvetrain problems.

Bret

 

I will be replacing my pushrods if and only if my factory ones arent hardened, or they arent in perfect shape. I plan on replacing the timing set with a factory one. Someone told me to replace lifters i need to pull the heads? im not doin that regardless of how expensive they are.

 

I wouldn't replace the chain with a factory one unless you mean the LT4 E.D. chain. You don't have to pull the heads to take the lifters out, it sounds like you have a lot of research to do. You have to pull the lifters just to do the cam swap. I wouldn't worry about your replacing your lifters. If you pull them out and they look fine, and roll freely just keep them. They're aren't really any good lifter options besides the Morel's.

 

who makes the 224/230 @ 112 cam? What are the # for the cc503 on a 112 LSA?
Steve

 

ive helped some people with cam swaps on LS1s and that was the case with them, they thought it was the same for LT1 but i guess not. Ive definitely gotten my hands dirty with this before, just never on an LT1. I also have a friend here with the same car as mine that has a 224/230 and he is running a stock replacement timing set with no issues. his name on here is backinblackz28.

 

If you really want a 224/230 on a 110 LSA... listen up. I have that cam and wouldnt do it again. There are better cams out there like for instance....

Comp lobes 3192/3194

They are overall smaller than the 3314/3315 lobes that make up the original XE224/230 but they still have the same duration at 0.50" lift. Combine that cam with 1.50 RRs and good valvesprings like the 918 beehives and it should be awesome on the street. Put it on a 106 ICL which is supposed to optimum for a SBC from what Ive read which would be 110*+4*advance... could even go 108* like others have suggested and I dont think youd sacrafice any driveability.

Or another fun combo would be the 3119/3111 lobes with 1.5 rockers. It would be a less radical for the street and your valvetrain noise would go down as well as help valvetrain wear. The combinations are endless... but dont go with a boring XE 224/230 unless you are getting a killer deal on it.

 

Shopping for a cam is bull****!!!! No matter what someone suggest, someone else shoots it down for some reason. I am going with the cc503 and form my own opinion about the cam.
Get the 224/230 @110 cam. install it and go from there.
Steve