LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

10-bolt vs. 12-bolt

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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:21 AM
  #1  
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10-bolt vs. 12-bolt

How much heavier is a 12-bolt than a 10-bolt? Also, can you beef up a 10-bolt for a mild LT1 that wouldn't really need a 12-bolt?
thanks
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:27 AM
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Also, how do I change my sig? I don't own that car anymore.
thanks
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:32 AM
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don't know how much heavier a 12 bolt is, but yes it is p ossible to build a 10 bolt to last behind a mild motor. Ellis I believe had his 10 bolt in the 11's, but he pretty much rebuilt it every season. He also had an Eaton posi unit ($400 or so item). If you have the money, go with a 12 bolt.

look up at the top of the message board where it says User CP (control Panel). Click on that, then click on "Edit Profile". Your sig is i there
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:39 AM
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12 Bolts are quite a bit heavier. I tried to weigh them when I put mine in, but it's hard to do on a bathroom scale. Anyway, if you have a 6speed car, you're just asking for it. My high 12 second car blew up 2 rings in around a year. Only one of those was on drag radials. The way i see it is, why not do it now? You'll have to do it eventually, and then you'll also have to foot the cost of 1500 dollars worth of gear changes. Think what i could have done with that extra 1500 dollars!
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:55 AM
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I just don't want to get one and find out it's like 200lbs more or something, that would negate all my weight reduction that I'm planning.
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 10:36 AM
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An auto with a high stall can be very easy on a stock 10 bolt....with good parts.
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 10:50 AM
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I tried comparing my stock 10-bolt to a Strange 12-bolt and there was less than 10# difference. But that was putting one end at a time on a bathroom scale. Point is, it isn't 200# heavier. And the Moser is probably slightly heavier than the Strange because the tubes are a little larger, and the brackets may be heavier (Strange uses "factory" brackets").

But considering that I did the entire install myself, laying on my back in a cold garage, it wasn't all that much heavier.
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 10:58 AM
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Injuneer - don't you have any friends??
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 11:29 AM
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I'm going to go with a 2800 stall converter and either the 306 or hotcam setup depending on the laws on failing emissions when it comes back.
thanks
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 11:39 AM
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of course if you have the money, then get the 12bolt. you CAN build a 10bolt to be just as strong however. get some good axles, a good posi, and a strong set of teeth, and youll be good to go.

A4s will be much easier on whichever you go with BTW. a M6 with gears and traction will crucify a near stock 10bolt.



jon
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 11:39 AM
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Originally posted by CANTONRACER
Injuneer - don't you have any friends??
Yeh... but most of them are so old that they can't get too much time out of the rest home...... .

I guess that's my point... if a senile old fart senior citizen like me can do it, it can't weigh too much.

Card carrying member - NHRA and AARP...... it's true!
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 11:45 AM
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Originally posted by Injuneer
Yeh... but most of them are so old that they can't get too much time out of the rest home...... .

I guess that's my point... if a senile old fart senior citizen like me can do it, it can't weigh too much.

Card carrying member - NHRA and AARP...... it's true!
you just became my hero

I hope when I get old enough to carry an AARP card I can still lay on the garage and do this stuff
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 12:42 PM
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Well mine is definitally auto and since I'm not trying to make some crazy 550hp to the wheels car I think a beefed up 10-bolt would be better. I figure 400-450 flywheel by the time I'm done. Probably like mid 1.8 60' times and hopefully low 12's. Nothing out of control.
Old Feb 12, 2003 | 12:53 PM
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mid 1.8's 60's...stock should never give u a prob with an a4..
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