1.6rr? what all do you need??
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 564
From: 1 hour south of springfield IL
1.6rr? what all do you need??
What all do I need to do this project?? What is the best brand to get and what type of springs should i get with them?? and what tools will i need to do it?
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 465
From: The Great State of Texas.
If you don't want to machine the heads, get the Crane 10308 kit. Good to .600 lift and 7000RPM. You will meed a 5/8 deep socket(6 point, not 12, they tend to crack), 3/8 for the valve cover bolts, and most likely you will wannt to take the alternator off. TI makes removing the passenger side valve cover much easier.
Also remember the order of valves
Back of car E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E Front of car
Also remember the order of valves
Back of car E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E Front of car
Last edited by HM Murdock; Aug 28, 2003 at 05:54 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 202
I believe the Crane part # should be 10758-16 for the Self Aligning, Narrow Body Gold Rockers ($309 Summit). Part number 10308-1 is for the Spring and Retainer kit ($149 Summit).
1) 1.6 Rockers, Narrow Body, Self Aligning for center bolt valve covers. Summit carries several different brands (Proform-$169, Scorpion-$189, Crane Gold-$309, call 1-800-230-3030 for exact info).
2) If you get self-aligning you will still need to get a LT4 Knock Module to replace your stock one because self aligning RR make a noise that can cause a false knock reading and cause your computer to retard timing thus taking away more power than you might have gained.
3) LT4's also came with composit valve covers which also helps to dampen the noise, changing valve covers is not strickly required.
4) You might get away with not changing springs and retainers if you keep your RPM below 6000 but popular opinion is to change them
5) If you go with non-self aligning they are quieter and don't require the LT4 knock module but you must get guide plates and hardened push rods and new studs to accomodate the guide plates. Might as well get the 7/16" studs and RR at the same time.
When all is said and done you you might want to consider the GM Hot Cam Kit which is $479 and includes 1.6 Crane SA-RR (made for GM), Spings and Retainers and the Cam.
You will still need a LT4 knock module and with 101K miles you will probably need new lifters.
buy from Sam Taylor GM, ask for Jason Cromer, 1-877-726-8295
http://samtaylor.com/html/parts.html
Hope this helps and doesn't just confuse
1) 1.6 Rockers, Narrow Body, Self Aligning for center bolt valve covers. Summit carries several different brands (Proform-$169, Scorpion-$189, Crane Gold-$309, call 1-800-230-3030 for exact info).
2) If you get self-aligning you will still need to get a LT4 Knock Module to replace your stock one because self aligning RR make a noise that can cause a false knock reading and cause your computer to retard timing thus taking away more power than you might have gained.
3) LT4's also came with composit valve covers which also helps to dampen the noise, changing valve covers is not strickly required.
4) You might get away with not changing springs and retainers if you keep your RPM below 6000 but popular opinion is to change them
5) If you go with non-self aligning they are quieter and don't require the LT4 knock module but you must get guide plates and hardened push rods and new studs to accomodate the guide plates. Might as well get the 7/16" studs and RR at the same time.
When all is said and done you you might want to consider the GM Hot Cam Kit which is $479 and includes 1.6 Crane SA-RR (made for GM), Spings and Retainers and the Cam.
You will still need a LT4 knock module and with 101K miles you will probably need new lifters.
buy from Sam Taylor GM, ask for Jason Cromer, 1-877-726-8295
http://samtaylor.com/html/parts.html
Hope this helps and doesn't just confuse
I knew that!!! I swear!!!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,103
From: Hawaii
94Z4me..... good info dude.... You see I know jack about valve train part numbers and stuff... so I find your info very very helpfull
Thank you man... I will inquire about the LT4 composite valve cover prices... the RRs is the one mode I will do but cant get to the cash for now so I spend my next few weeks doing more research...
Thank you.
Thank you man... I will inquire about the LT4 composite valve cover prices... the RRs is the one mode I will do but cant get to the cash for now so I spend my next few weeks doing more research...
Thank you.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,915
From: Sacramento
You might as well buy the hotcam kit. Then all you will need is a valve spring compressor and a pair of valve cover gaskets.
New lifters should not be necessary, neither should new valve covers. The LT4 knock module is probably a good idea.
OR Promags and LT4 springs/retainers/keepers. Cheaper than LT4 rockers and better quality. You will have to "clearance" the valve cover supports, though. Easy to do if you have access to a grinder.
New lifters should not be necessary, neither should new valve covers. The LT4 knock module is probably a good idea.
OR Promags and LT4 springs/retainers/keepers. Cheaper than LT4 rockers and better quality. You will have to "clearance" the valve cover supports, though. Easy to do if you have access to a grinder.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 202
No Problem,
By The Way, I remember Shoebox or someone (maybe more than one) say that you should not do a cam change on a high mile motor without a bottom end rebuild, something to do with poor bearings in early LT1's. Maybe you can do a search or send a Private Message to Shoebox inquiring.
My Proform rockers and SLP headers are sitting in my garage waiting for me to get a long weekend off (not this one
), so I don't know how well the "cheap" ones are going to work. I did searches and most seemed happy with them. I've got a 93 so I don't have the knock module issue otherwise I don't know if I would do just the rockers since for all of the money and time you only get 6-12 HP.
If your doing a rebuild or heads and or cam then it's worth it but otherwise a PCM tune would net you alot more power for only ~$150.
Most of the tuners will reprogram for free within 6 months (PCMforless) if you do more mods and or only charge you about $50 for retunes after 6 months.
Thats what I'd recomend for now, plus it will keep your hands clean.
By The Way, I remember Shoebox or someone (maybe more than one) say that you should not do a cam change on a high mile motor without a bottom end rebuild, something to do with poor bearings in early LT1's. Maybe you can do a search or send a Private Message to Shoebox inquiring.
My Proform rockers and SLP headers are sitting in my garage waiting for me to get a long weekend off (not this one
), so I don't know how well the "cheap" ones are going to work. I did searches and most seemed happy with them. I've got a 93 so I don't have the knock module issue otherwise I don't know if I would do just the rockers since for all of the money and time you only get 6-12 HP. If your doing a rebuild or heads and or cam then it's worth it but otherwise a PCM tune would net you alot more power for only ~$150.
Most of the tuners will reprogram for free within 6 months (PCMforless) if you do more mods and or only charge you about $50 for retunes after 6 months.
Thats what I'd recomend for now, plus it will keep your hands clean.
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