gay happy or you mean it starts checking out other LT1's?


Why not just take it to someone who knows what they are doing? Instead of blowing it up....

 

I had a similar problem in my last Z... had a clogged radiator

Also, test the thermostat. put it in a pan with water and set it on the stove and see if it opens when it gets hot.
I just bought a radiator for my new car last week for $170...

 

Why do you hate your motor for this? It's clearly your cooling system, not your motor.

I hate my motor. It only made 230 wheel hp when stock. That's a reason to hate your motor.

 

It's your water pump. The higher you rev it, the more water the pump circulates. If the pump isn't pumping very well to begin with, you'll have to increase it's speed to get it to circulate the volume of water it would at a lower rpm. Replace it with a GM pump since the after market mechanical LT1 pumps are junk. Or you could replace it with an electric pump and gain some HP.

 

Do NOT keep starting new threads for the same problem. This is the 4th thread on basically the same problem since midnight today.

 

to turn the fans on. From next to the red zone it stays at 210 degree's with the fans on but that is just a band aid . I'm gonna buy a 160 hyper tech thermostat that you guys said and a manually switch fan. If I still have problems its the water pump. How can you tell when your water pump isn't good. One mech told me long time ago that when you rev it and it cools down fast its either the water pump, blown head gasket, or exhaust fumes going in the coolant system.

 

And purchasing a 160* thermostat is also a "band-aid", because these
cars are designed to run with a 180* thermostat. So, if you get a 160*
thermostat, and it gets you back to "normal" operating temps, then
you haven't solved the problem - something is still amiss.

I suggest that you completely FLUSH your system and, as I alluded to
earlier, have the cap checked, confirm that your thermostat is opening
at the prescribed temperature, and re-bleed the system again.

And, ONCE again, take the inspection cover off and verify that the
impeller does NOT turn by hand. These are all 5-10 minute checks
that will verify those components.

 

Its me again. three hours bleeding and I gave up got to 250 degree's. Let the car cool changed the oil that was pretty late about 4,000 miles old the oil and about 2 or 3 months old.

Well here goes, it didn't over heat! Let it run after the oil change and drove it and it stayed at 210.Went back home and got ready to go out.

Got my girlfriend and headed home and bam over heated near the red line rev it and goes down fast to 210. Shut the car off and it gurgled crazy and you can feel and hear the gurgling from the fat coolant hose under the skinny one hose with the bleeder.

I let the car rest for about 3-5 hours take the car out at night and the car behaved it ran at 195 - 210 went back home let it idle and stayed at 215-220. Open the hood and no gurgling where did all that air go? It runs good one trip but another trip it acts gay and goes back and fourth. It overheats and you can hear the loud rushing in the hoses then you let it sit and later it runs good and the air goes away. Commmen sense once there is air in the coolant and over heats it will do it till you bleed it. Well in my case it better and I didn't do anything afterwords. I thought I had to bleed it but it repaired it self. I hope it runs good in the morning . It will prolly run good going to work but coming home it will prolly over heat. Car has a mind of its own. One day it runs to next to the red line and the next 5 hours or another day it runs at 195-210. It has air and gurgling after I shut it off when it overheats and or then it will run cold and I open the hood and no gurgling or hoses shakin. I guess I gotta live like this and take my chance drivin it. I don't think the oil change would change anything, lol. Im stumped. Im thinking that the stock thermostat gets stuck open or closed sometimes. Could be the timing notice it eat little more gas. New hoses, cap, good coolant, stock pump and thermostat. The higher I rev it the cooler it gets rev it to almost 3,000 RPMS and it drops like a girls G-sting after prom night.

 

You do know that you are going to be yelled at AGAIN for YET ANOTHER thread on the SAME problem?

You do realize you can reply to your own post correct?

 

A moderators work is never done.

 

I was going to try and help him... but I was busy editing "What the f***" out of the topic, and merging four of the five posts on the same subject

====================================

All that "gurgling" sounds more like boiling coolant than "air". If the coolant is boiling, it will blow coolant out the overflow reservoir. And since its coolant vapor, when it cools down, it will condense, the system will pull replacement coolant back into the radiator, and it should still be full. That's why there is no "air" in the system, unless of course there is a head gasket leak, and its forcing air, fuel and exhaust gasses into the coolant. Or, there's a leak in the system that is preventing the coolant from creating a vacuum and pulling replacement coolant out of the reservoir.

Why would coolant boil....

-insufficient pressure. Weak cap. Keeps saying its new, but ignoring people who suggest it should be tested. Or maybe there's a leak in the system that is being overlooked. It only has to leak enough coolant to drop the pressure in the system, and it starts to boil.

-hot spotting. Head gasket problem. Ruled that out because he couldn't taste coolant in the oil ( ). All head gasket leaks do not put coolant in the oil. But they do put hydrocarbons in the coolant. Get a test kit and test the coolant for hydrocarbons.

-incorrect mix of coolant and water. What mix are you using?

=======================================

I hope you understand, I'm not trying to bust your 'nads by telling you not to post multiple threads on the same problem. It really hurts your chances of getting an answer. The people seeing your 4th thread have no idea what has already been done to solve the problem, what questions people have asked to try and help you, whether those questions were answered, what suggetions were made, and whether those suggestions were considered/tried.

 

[QUOTE=1997whitez28;5293486]Its me again with the overheating No fans, I am waiting for the switch through Jegs its the PCM.

.[/

Just mabe the reason your overheating. You need to have a fan hooked up or you will continue to over heat .

 

Just that im going crazy and I am not good when it comes to doing threads I usually dont reply and the other stuff.

Car runs good. used it in the morning and it ran at 195-210. Went home after work and ran cold rather than 245-255. Car will never dip on the red just next to it. Seems like this is a routine once a month or two. I put the old thermostat cap on because I thought it was shot and bought the 18lb from auto zone. Fans never turn on and it is the PCM. I'm saving my money and buying 160 thermo and a switch fan I hope it fixes it or band aids it. This problem has been happening since last summer it can run at 190-210 for weeks or month then switch back to near the red but can act like there was nothing wrong if I wait 15 mi or hours later. It depends on the trips and days. My mechanic said its the gases going into it or the head gasket but how can you drive it one day and it runs cold and the other day or 15 min and over heat at a stop light and go back and fourth forever and the car runs mint got power, doesn't back fire, oil is okay, new sensor, 2 new hoses, prestone 50/50 mix. I did all the remedies except the thermo, and the fan switch.

I respect the people here that help people like me.If it wasn't for you guys I would of sold the car along time ago and gotten a 350Z or a streetbike. But I look at my car parked and I say I could never sell that.I I put to much money and blood and pain into it. When I get older im gonna open that garage door and be like damn I still have it ever since I was 21.(I'm 24 now)
The people that comment the car and the looks that you get you know what im talking about. These cars are badass , loud, fast, and the sleek look.

 

Runs good now read what I wrote on top. Im stumped

 

are you stumped.... [edit] ? GET YOUR FANS FIXED AND WORK FROM THERE. The fans pull air through the radiator to cool down the motor. With no fan you have no way to dissapate or remove the heat from the radiator and you will loose fluid out your overflow and blow a head gasket. The lower thermostate is not going to fix your problem. Fixing the fans will. If you keep driving the car the way you have been, YOU WILL BLOW A HEAD GASKET OR WORSE.