LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

[edited] spittin from the overflow tank!!

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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
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[edited] spittin from the overflow tank!!

Its me again with the overheating problems that I had on and off for months and finally fixed it the last 2 weeks. I changed the sensors, and the car was good for a week. Tonight I was with my girl and for some reason the car went toward the red. No fans, I am waiting for the switch through Jegs its the PCM.

But I went home and open the hood and I hear gurgling and I checked the oil, no coolant even tasted it, hoses are ok and not leaking from the water pump. I open both bleeding screws and it was shooting steam and air but I can see the steam. Its was like a tea pot and the steam shot about a foot or two straight for about 3 min straight. I saw the over flow tank dripping and I open the radiator cap saftely and the overflow tank was gushin coolant and it went all over the garage floor. I poured coolant in the radiator cap because there was nothing in the radiator and I saw some of the coolant trickling back in it but I was a 1/3 low but why would the overflow tank **** it out. I don't know where all that coolant went except the overflow tank. Help me guys I don't know that the problem is. I never changed the thermostat since I bought the car 3 years ago. I know it isn't the head gasket because I wasn't blowin white smoke or any smoke. Car runs fine. Rev it and it doesn't back fire at all. The waterpump is stock and so is the thermostat. Its just pucking out of the overflow.
Car has new 2 hoses, coolant was always changed on time, the cap is about 3 months old its the one from autozone that locks. Its a 18 lbs cap.

Last edited by 1997whitez28; Apr 6, 2008 at 09:54 AM.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #2  
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The thermostat is cheap and i change mine whenever my car has overheating isues. I had a blown head gasket on an old car and it never smoked but would loose antifreeze.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:20 AM
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Wow, you tasted your oil, thats awesome. Anyways if steam came out of your bleeders then it wasnt bled properly. I think your only issue is that and the only reason it was pisssing out of the overflow was because everything expanded (this happens when it gets hot). So try to let it cool, fill it and bleed it all the way. Then try it again.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:19 AM
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In my experience when I got coolant out of the overflow, it was from air in the system.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:33 AM
  #5  
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Bad radiator cap will make the overflow tank go postal too. Loss of pressure will make the coolant boil over and turn to steam.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:09 AM
  #6  
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if the motor is hot and you crack the cap it's going to shoot coolant into the overflow tank - if that tank is full then it will overflow
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 08:42 AM
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If you had your overflow hose and steam pipe hose disconnected from the radiator and reconnected them backwards, coolant will boil out the overflow tank as well.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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The car was running good for a while

Would a bad thermostat do that, would a bad radiator do that?

Last edited by 1997whitez28; Apr 6, 2008 at 09:40 AM.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1997whitez28
It me again with the overheating problems. I changed the sensors, [snipped]
Car has new 2 hoses, coolant was always changed on time, the cap is about 3 months old its the one from autozone that locks. Its a 18 lbs cap.
Overheating can be caused by a number of faulty items - even a fairly
new part can go bad - heck, I've installed a brand new part that
turned out to be defective.

The easiest thing to check, and costs nothing, is to bleed the system.
If you are sure the system doesnt have air in it, then you have to
move on to other items.

Have your local auto parts check the pressure on the radiator cap.

Take the thermostat out, get a small pot big enough, when filled with
water, that will cover the thermostat. Turn the heat on and have a
thermometer ready. When the thermostat valve opens, check the
temperature on the thermometer - it should read the same as the
rating of the thermostat - a 180* thermostat should open at 180*
(give or take a degree). If the thermostat is NOT opening at its
rated temperature, replace it.

While you have the thermostat out, remove the inspection cover on
the front of the water pump. Attempt to turn the impeller by hand.
If it turns, you have one of: (a) stripped driving shaft, (b) stripped
driven shaft, (c) stripped coupler, or worse, (d) stripped driving gear
at the camshaft.

Check ALL hoses for pinhole leaks. Check for a free-flowing radiator.
Check the fans, that they come on at the correct temperature. If you
turn on the A/C, do both fans come on?

If the temp begins to rise to uncomfortable levels while driving, turn
the A/C on and move the temp dial to the hottest level - the A/C will
trip both radiator fans on and turning the temp to hot will help exhaust
the heated water, until you can get off the road.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #10  
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Would a bad thermostat

make the car over heat, will it make steam shoot out of the beeders for 5 min straight and make the overflow take gush out? I need to know so I can buy today.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 1997whitez28
make the car over heat, will it make steam shoot out of the beeders for 5 min straight and make the overflow take gush out? I need to know so I can buy today.
Why have you started ANOTHER thread about your over-heating issues? Just respond back into your ORIGINAL thread.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:30 PM
  #12  
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Merging....
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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Have you checked the cap yet, as suggested above? Is it holding pressure? Coolant is going to boil a lot easier without the pressure on the system.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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I hate my motor!!! This is my last response

Out of the blue it overheated. I bleed it so many times but stays on the line toward the red. The fat hose with the bleeder always shoots out steam when I shut the car off and goes away after 5 min. I start it and run it and goes near the red. Its builds pressure and I let all of it go. Hoses are new, cap is new. If I rev it it shoots down towards 210 and the faster I rev it the faster it goes down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I unhook the sensor switch and the fan goes on and it stays at 230-235 with the fan out. Car is harder to start when the sensor switch is unlpugged making the fan go on. I don't know what to do.The air wont come out of the car. It takes so long for the fat hose to build pressure and coolant and I feel the hose and it gurgles like crazy . Maybe its the thermostat. Is there anyone from CT that is good with Lt1's. I can rev the car and it doesn't crackle or back fire. It actually runs better when it overheating, lol.The higher you rev it the colder it gets then when you stop it shoots up. I spent 3 hours bleeding it. This bull has been happing every so often for about a year.its gets gay sometimes. The raditator gurgles and shakes in my car.Oil still looks fine and doesn't taste like coolant and the exhaust is ok.

Worse comes to worse im just gonna drive with the freakin car with the switch unplugged near the water pump and drive the car at 240 degree's

Last edited by 1997whitez28; Apr 6, 2008 at 01:02 PM.
Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:04 PM
  #15  
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I would start with the thermostat, might as well go with 160 stat. Second wire up a manual fan switch that way you are in control your vehicle temp. I like to run my fans all the time in the summer.



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