you dont need the electric waterpump, and you dont need rockers. That price seems super high for the timing chain, i paid $30 canadian for a stock replacement, brand name part. Keep in mind i get a discount, but its not that big lol.

 

As far as lifters go. I know at one time CMotorsports sold the COMP R lifters for $209 a set. It would be a much better part than stock or aftermarket factory replacements. Especially for only $10 more

 

Don't need new rockers? Aren't stock 1.52 SA? I'm pretty sure Lloyd designed this cam to work with 1.6. Electric water pump, I could probably due without. I might could go with the standard LE1, and forget about the $200 valve upgrade. So thats $400 so far. I want to go with a heavy duty timing chain, though. As a busted chain can will ruin the rockers and could due some other major damage.

 

you can get a replacement timing chain for $30 for sdpp. as far as the rockers, you dont 'need' them for the motor to run. you want them. theres a lot of 'wants' on your list. stuff that you dont 'need' for it to run. i zero'd everything you dont 'need'.

front end gasket set - 18
timing chain - 30
Electric water pump- 0
ARP head bolts - 59.97
Comp Pro Mag 1.6 NSA 7/16 rockers - 0
7/16 studs - 0
GM 14011051 guide plates - 0
7.200 5/16 hardened pushrods - 0
Crane or Comp stock replacement lifters - 197.97
Mr Gasket 5716 head gaskets - 33
30 lb Fuel Injectors - 0
3.73 gears - 0
Mail order tune -138
LE1 + upgrade valves- 1300 -200 = 1100
Coolant - 23
Oil and filter - 25
Cam lube - 6
Thread locker - 4
Thread sealant - 4
Spray cleaner or solvent for gasket surfaces- 3
shipping - 150

thats down to $1794

 

Well, that looks a whle lot more reasonable, thanks for the input. But if I am going to do it, I want to do it right. I figure I can eliminate a a few of those things, but there is no way I am going to skimp on things that will help prevent severe engine damage. Cause after I do this, there will be no money for that 383 rebuild

 

you can always pull the valve covers later and do the rockers and pushrods. you can spin the stock rockers/pushrods 6200. its gonna have new valvesprings, lifters and a timing chain. stop being paranoid.

 

Do it right and use a double roller, its the better than the LT chains and ALOT cheaper.

I would NOT use a gear drive on any LT motor, it has a good chance of causing false knock and KR. Have fun with your new project and dont get into debt to go hot rodding.

 

It's about right, man.....

Where you "could" maybe cut some corners (water pump, less expensive timing chain, new lifters....) you don't want to. IMHO, all those are a necessity to replace at 108K miles.

I have a little bit different valvetrain setup on mine (LT4 Extreme Duty timing chain, GMPP rockers, rocker studs, pushrods). Plus, I reused my water pump and lifters because I only had 52K miles on my engine when I did my cam/heads.

From what I remember, it cost me $2400-2500, plus I still have my stock heads (bought the ported heads off Lloyd outright, didn't turn mine in).....I already had gears and retained the stock fuel injectors, so I'd say your cost estimate is pretty close....

One more thought.....you're replacing your stock 24lb/hr injectors with 30lb injectors, right?.....there's no real use in doing that if you don't also upgrade your fuel pump to a 255lb/hr pump.... Do the math, 24x8=192....that's what your stock pump will put out....with 30lb injectors, you're going to want a fuel pump that will put out at least 240lb/hr.....HTH

 

Picking up certain used parts will be fine. You can also find people who bought the parts new and never installed them and pick them up to save some money. Parts like the rockers sell for $150-175 all the time and you can reuse them without any worries. Also you will need more than $3 worth of cleaning solvent IMO, because you want to clean EVERYTHING before putting it back in. You will also need extra oil to soak the lifters prior to installing them, and I wouldn't use that oil for anything else. What timing chain are you getting for $89? Don't forget about header gaskets and maybe even collector gaskets. Also a 3/8 rocker/stud will be fine for your setup. You might also look into getting the le2 kit, the power difference will be quite noticeable. You will need the pushrods because your stock ones aren't hardened since you have a 96. If you have to drop something for now, I'd drop the 3.73's then the tune, you can always easily get it later and the car will run on a stock tune. Electric waterpump can be bought for closer to $160 from summit also. I could be wrong, but isn't the head gaskets $33 each?

Thats just my quick rambling on it all.

 

Doing some quick math with all the stuff I have waiting.... you initial figure is not off that much. It adds up quick. On an engine with that kind of mileage, I wouldn't be looking at getting out cheap, I would look at getting out with a quality setup that you don't have to go back in the near future and take apart to replace things that should have been replaced before. I have bought a few things for my swap that some people said "yes" and some said "no" but I don't want to do it again for a while.

Just my opinion. Good luck with the project..... post some clips when you get them .

 

An 80 dollar timing chain is not going to be any better than a 30 dollar one. They are the same thing, you are just over paying for a basic chain.

Go with the LT4 timing chain if you are doing heads and cam. Unless you want to beat yourself over the head with a stick later.

- Z28WannaB

 

Notice Bold Items....

#1. Get the best possible studs you can run ARP Race Studs are $50
#2. There is HP in Pushrods and they are basically going to act like a leaf spring in the motor so the better they are the better performance you are going to see.... this is where I would put in Comp Cams Hi Tech 5/16 PR at $124 a set... Yeah I know looks scary to me too, but why let something like this screw up your motor?
#3 Stock Lifters will work fine.
#4 Any assembly lube or a 30wt motor oil will do the job rather than "special" cam lube that you don't need cause it's a roller cam.

#5 All timing chains are not created equal...
#6 get or rent a degree wheel, learn how to do it and DEGREE THE CAM IN! Not degreeing a cam in is like cutting 2x4's to length by measuring with your feet rather than a ruler... it can look right Dot to Dot but if it's not right it costs you HP and money if you screw up and brake parts because of it.

Bret

 

The Elec WP is less than $200, I believe the CSI is only like $130, then you can run just a std double roller.

Other than that, it sounds about right... although it seems low for gears & install... gears alone sure, but install/bearings/shims will cost more.