Hooker lt install questions.
Hooker lt install questions.
I'm half way done with my header install on my 01 z28 and I've read and read and read and read on the install instructions on this site and others. Basically my question is why isn't a lot I've read been the same for me?
I've read that you have to remove the steering linkage, which I tried to do but couldn't, and grind off a casting chunk. When I first tried to manuver my drivers side header into place I was hitting the k-member and nothing else. I read just recently that I could have loosened the bolts on the trans mount and slid the engine/trans 1/4" to the other side and not had to touch the k-member. Oh well. Anyways, after I knotched 1/4" off the k-member it slid in without a problem.
I'm also reading that the pass side is easier than the drivers, I did the drivers first and am about to go tackle the pass side. The pass side looks way harder to do. I guess I'll see.
Also, I noticed that there is a braket behind the alternator that is a 3rd mounting point for it to the block. It wasn't bolted on and just swinging free from the block. I don't have a bolt for it, and I've driven 15,000 miles with it like that, is it nessesary to find a bolt for it and squeeze my arm up in there to replace it?
I've read that you have to remove the steering linkage, which I tried to do but couldn't, and grind off a casting chunk. When I first tried to manuver my drivers side header into place I was hitting the k-member and nothing else. I read just recently that I could have loosened the bolts on the trans mount and slid the engine/trans 1/4" to the other side and not had to touch the k-member. Oh well. Anyways, after I knotched 1/4" off the k-member it slid in without a problem.
I'm also reading that the pass side is easier than the drivers, I did the drivers first and am about to go tackle the pass side. The pass side looks way harder to do. I guess I'll see.
Also, I noticed that there is a braket behind the alternator that is a 3rd mounting point for it to the block. It wasn't bolted on and just swinging free from the block. I don't have a bolt for it, and I've driven 15,000 miles with it like that, is it nessesary to find a bolt for it and squeeze my arm up in there to replace it?
Re: Hooker lt install questions.
Hey man! I told you you needed to loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up an inch or two, and you wouldnt have to mess with the steering or grinding anything! Passenger side is a breeze if the car is up high enough (like it was when you came over to my house) Just make sure you take the dipstick out first. You also need to remove the coil packs so you can get to the back bolts easily. And pull that piece of weatherstripping up so you dont cut the hell out of your arm. It goes in at an extreme angle but it slides up there. As far as your alternator goes, as long as the front 3 bolts are in you should be ok. Let me know if you have any problems
Re: Hooker lt install questions.
I did remove the bolt on the motor mount and jacked the motor up. That helped the most. It just wouldn't fit without cutting about 1/4" off the kmember. I did everything you told me to and it wasn't hard at all. The only thing you nor I thought about was when you jack the motor up it puts a little strain on the hose from the power steering res. to the r&p. I jacked up the motor and then got out from under it and heard a strange pop noise and then seen fluid draining onto the ground. I didn't find where it was coming from in time and made a huge mess.
Oh well, if that was the worst thing that happened then I guess I did pretty well.
Oh well, if that was the worst thing that happened then I guess I did pretty well.
Re: Hooker lt install questions.
You must not have a power steering cooler on yours then, my return line goes to a cooler first, and then to the pump. It's factory and its this big aluminum thing that goes in as part of the upper radiator hose. I didn't even think about it sorry!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



