Yeah, I didn't want to start a big arguement. Just wanted to let everyone know

 

Here is a website of a very interesting test a guy did on several different air filter. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

 

Yes, we've all seen that website. Very accurate measuring instruments too... a slice of filter, and a white fabric pad behind it. Very scientific.

Also, judging by that website, it would seem all filters suck equally.

As long as you're catching large debris (pieces of grass, insects, small rocks, etc) the filter is working. Miniscule dust particles that pass through filters will be burned up or trapped in the oil and flushed out during an oil change.

 

Which brings us to the real point ... other than producing higher dyno numbers to brag about. There is no time that realistically that running without a filter is of any value.

You are certainly not going to do it regularly on the street. And at the track, you will suck in enough large debris to reduce any potential benifits to be gained.

Tried once when I was still stock, saw no improvement and my MAF screen was imbedded with seed and sand grains ... can only imagine what got through.

 

A LOT of people run w/o air filters at the tack. If you are sucking up that much seed/sand at the track, something is wrong.

Also, isn't that the point of dyno'ing, to get every last ounce of HP out of your engine?

 

A LOT of people do a LOT of stupid sh*t at the track, because they think thier supposed to.

Running without a filter on a carbed car makes sense. Where the intake is 30 to 40 inches off the ground.

But f-bodies are essentially bottom feeders in a stock configuration, drawing air about 10 inches from the ground and then directing it very efficiently directly to the intake. Then most of the induction modification that is done to f-bodies push the air intake that much closer to the ground ... ie FRA, FTRA, SSRA, etc ...

Like I said I've done it, and saw no difference.

What? You know of a hermatically sealed track somewhere?? A track is about the filthiest place you can run your car ... loose rubber from burnouts, sand from oil down clean ups are some of the contamination created by the track environment ... not to mention what is there, simply as result the natural environment where a track may be located.

Not really, a dyno is tuning tool. But if you're just interested in pumping up numbers, here's a couple of other tricks for you.

Inflate your rear tires to at least 45 lbs ... good for a couple ponies, more if you can get a set of light weight wheels for the rear.

Then use a short belt, bypassing the steering pump, alternator and pull the A/C belt ... that's another 5 ponies and generally more. ... I actually race this way, but I don't bother to dyno this way. It doesn't change the parameters of the tune.

 

after seeing the huge amount of black crap that my filter catches, i would never run without a filter. ever.

 

To the original poster... why do your times suck?

 

I don't know...it hooks and goes. Just can't break a 13.7 for some reason, maybe there is extra wieght in the car somewhere, who knows.

 

I dynoed a Fram vs. a K&N and there was no difference in power. However, the K&N didn't filter as well, so I tossed it. I NEVER run without a filter...it's cheap insurance.