I am looking at Lunati cams at these specs
222/228@.567lift and 113LSA RPM range is 2000-6600
or
232/238 intake lift .599 and exhaust lift.601 on stock rollers. 113LSA RPM range is 2400 to 6800
With the last cam will I need different pushrods or will the stock 7.4's work?
I am also looking at the comp cams bee hive springs and hardened push rods just not sure of the size.

 

You'll be better off running hardened push rods on even stock cams.

I wouldn't run the comp 918's on either, siimply for the fact that you can get a complete set of Patriot Gold double springs (good to .650" lift) w/Ti retainers, seat, locks, and seals shipped for ~$250. I've seen what happens to an engine when those 918's break. 918's max @.6" lift IIRC so cam choice 2 would not be able to use them. Stronger springs with the lighter retianers should last loger on either cam also.

What are you looking for in a cam? Those cams are at the lower and upper end of the spectrum.

 

Ya one will be almost like stock with a small power increase and the other will lope harder and sound and push power like an aftermarket cam should.

the main questions to be answered are:
budget?
power goals? (340-360, 360-380,380-400, 400+?)
Possible head work?
Auto or M6?
daily driver/ weekend warrior?
Emissions standards?

The best idea would be to call a cam manufacturer, like Futral. I talked to them and they answered all my questions!

 

car is an A4, possible head work in the future, after my next deployment. Looking for close to 380-400 with out head work. Emissions is not a concern and for now she is a daily driver but after next depolyment weekend warrior

 

In your case, I'd advise going with the larger of the 2

 

you might look into a custom grind as well. Email Allen or John at Futral. They know their stuff really well and you can get some good deals if you mention you're from CZ28. I bought my cam and pushrods for $500 even, shipped.

 

im not trying to be an ***, but isnt 500$ a lot for cam/pushrods? I am hoping there was valvesprings in there too?

 

no actually thats with a discount to me for being a CZ28 member. Their cams are 400 bucks and pushrods were 115. they gave em to me for 500 shipped. Check LS1 cams. generally 350-400ish

 

Then, i paid 250 for springs locks retainers seals, 160 for my used harland sharps, 200 ofr new oversized valves, 180 for head machining/enlarged valves... i'm up to 1300 for my heads/cam with doing my OWN porting, and i still havent bought gaskets, bolts, and timing chain/oil pump.

 

crap sorry, thought I was in the LT1 board lol my bad; our cams are 250+shipping.

 

What about a 224/224 .581/.581 112 LSA + CC 918's for $325 + shipping? Setup was in my friend's car for less than 1,000 miles. His A4 put down over 360hp on a Mustang dyno with a $h!tty tune. PM me if interested.

 

I wouldn't run 918's on that cam new, much less used. If you don't want to change springs as often get some good doubles. You can get a set with Ti retainers, better locks, seals and seats for $250. You can't even get new Ti retainers for the 918's for that much.

Its a nice grind though. I'm all for inexpensive used cams. Got mine for $85.

 

looking for a bit more than 360 and a little more radical cam Thanks though

 

for what you have said I would do the 232/238 cam, in our last project car with just heads and cam in an M6 we went 11.4 at 122mph(first time out) using that same cam and stage 2 5.3L heads. car had more in her, but we broke the torque arm and a bunch of outher stuff.

so I would go with the 232/238 cam
I can do a package with
Comp Cams 232/238 .595/.605 113LSA (or any Comp LS1 grind)
Hardened Push rods
Patriot Spring package for
$725.00 shipped to the lower 48 states

 

360 on a Mustang Dyno is more than 360 on a Dynojet in comparison.