I'm interested in getting a cam kit installed by Rapid Motorsports and was wondering what you guys think of this cam. 226/234 .578/.578 110 LSA. Their kit contains the cam, chrome moly pushrods, Crane dual springs, Crane titanium retainers, Crane steel spring seats, and GM valve seals. My current mods are below. Any suggestions? This car isn't my daily driver, but I would like to keep it streetable. I'm looking for good streetablility, noticable increase in performance (hopefully around 390 at the wheels), and a good sound. Thanks for your help.

 

save a few bucks by doing the heads at the same time. can have them ported and milled if you dont want to spring for new ones. as far as the cam, lift seems a little high imo. maybe someone else chime in on that but i was always told dont go above 500/500

 

thats a pretty extreme cam....I would think you would be fine with a TR224 112 lsa. Heads arent a must and the 224 is designed and can be used and see great gains on the stock heads. The stock heads arent poor by any means. A cam kit w/o install costs will run 700 bucks and heads will be alot more so to each his own.

 

That cam is fine for a stick car.
In my A4 car I have a 228-236 .588-.578 112 ground 2 degrees advanced. Luckily I have a loose converter.

 

Mikey put a similar cam in my 02 SS. FLP LT w/cats. 375 rwhp, 368 rwtq.

 

I have a Comp 224/224 .581/.581 114 in my car and love it. You can tell it's not a stock cam, but it's definitely not crazy. I dynoed 388RWHP/371RWTQ. It's very streetable with an awesome increase in power.

 

Oops. Above sig is old. I have all that stuff and Hooker longtubes with ORY.

 

how come on the TR website they are showing almost 400 hp with the 224 112lsa??? Is that an overstate like some dyno's are? If so I am going to go bigger.

 

Did you put down those numbers before or after computer tuning?

 

You're thinking SBC not LS1. I know people run beyond .500 lift in SBC's, but an LS1 stock cam is near that most SBC's are not.

 

After LS1 Edit tuning.

 

I still can't decide which cam to get, but I think I can narrowed it down to these;

Rapid Motorsports series I - 226/234 .578/.578 110lsa
Futral Motorsports F10 - 228/228 .581/.581 112lsa
Texas Speed and Performance - 225/225 .589/.589 112lsa

Any suggestions?
Thanks,
David

 

I am by no means a camshaft expert, but I'm pretty sure that the more duration a cam has, the rougher the idle will be, and the higher its power band will be. So, looking at those cams, I'd say while the T.S.P. cam has the most lift, it's got the shortest duration and would probably have more friendly "street manners". The Rapid Motorsports cam has a long exhaust duration, which I think I read works well for nitrous applications? IMO (based on my limited knowledge) the Futral Motorsports cam looks like it's got the best compromise of lift and duration. I'm sure they're all going to be equally good performers though.

 

MY GOD that Cam is TINY

GO BIG I'm not saying go 240 duration 610 lift on a 108 or anything. Buy you can get in the 230 duration 600 lift on a 112-114 and have great street manners. My cam LITERALLY is like driving stock with tuning. Its all about the tune.

If I were doing a cam only 6spd car I'd do the Futrual MS F11. Anything less just by a hot cam kit they are cheap and put out great numbers.

My cam is more like a F13 and it is VERY mild until you get to 4500. It still puts out almost the same numbers as a 224 does down low and after 3500 that changes. These cars are like LT1's and SBC they can handle lots of cam and not be overcammed. The only thing I can think off is with a big cam your going to need good dual springs and gears

Bobby

 

I run a FMS F11 (see #'s in sig.) It has a lope to it but after tuning drives like a stocker! Wasn't that bad even before tuning LOL. Does not stall/surge/die on cold or hot starts, runs great even with the AC on. idles at 850 rpm. There are a lot of people running FMS cams in the Atlanta area and Alan & Candy provide great customer service at FMS