ive ran accross a few 98 ls1 6spds with t tops, wich is what i want , with like 70=80k for like 8-9grand. either that or go with and obd2 lt1 wich is 96-97 , lets say same price but you will have like maybe 50 or 60k on them, so i say spend get the higher milage ls1? what do youguys think? lets say you have a 97 lt1 and a 98 ls1, with almost identical milage, both 6spd with some 4.10s exhaust, cold, air, who will win off the line, or from like a roll???? what do you guys think , again i appreciate all the replys guys

 

WTF kindaquestion is that?of course the car with more power is gonna win. The LS1 will win hands down,but if youre askin a question like that and youre the LS1 driver im not sure who would win LOL oh man.

It might be a drivers race for the first 2gears but after that given equal drivers (horrible or otherwise) the LS1 will walk away pretty good.For the same price id get the 70'000 mile LS1 over a 50,000 mile LT1,if its the same price than theres no turnin away from the LS1. the future is unpredictable though,either engine can blow tomorrow good luck sounds like youll need it.

 

It's not what floats my boat, It's what a bank will loan me for a car. I borrowed money for a car from a private owner before. It was actually a great deal because the interest was low. But the bank would only loan me up to the amount of the cars BBV.

The car I wanted was worth 5k on paper. A dealership would have wanted 8k for the car and probably 9 or 10% interest rate. The seller wanted 6K for his car. I got the loan of 5k for 7% interest but had to put a grand down of my own money to make it work.

I still saved 2k and 2%. It was a win win situation. Sometimes you can find a seller parting with a car for less then BBV. That's an even better situation. But if not then you do what you can. Not everone can get unsecured loans lol. It would be nice but that's just not realistic for everyone. But a dealership can offer things that you might not get on your own. It's a fact that not everyone has good credit or even any credit at all.

A dealership can get people financed that might not normally be able to do it on thier own. A bank will only loan me BBV for a car loan but a dealership can get that and more financed. Sometimes a person might have a car they currently own and desperately want out of. But that car might only be worth 5k on a trade-in and you owe say 7k. A dealership can take get you into a car and hide the 2k in the new loan. Is that smart? No. But if you want a new car bad enough and don't want to wait until you have equity in the car you have now then it works.

Buying a car from a dealership is not the best place to buy a car from. But sometimes it's the only way to get the kind of car you want financed. Plus the selection is awesome from places like carmax. So don't be so quick to laugh at people who buy a used car from a dealership. Some of them actually find thier dream car at a decent price with a warraty and finance options.

 

i wasnt laughin at no one. i was just laughing that we were both talkin about two completely different scenarios.

 

well who in here has an ls1 6spd, and has raced an lt1 with the same mods or similar mods . like gears etc.???? if you go back and read the first page or the 2nd, when i was with my friend he walked that ls1

 

if it was equal drivers the LS1 wins

 

oh yeah 70,000miles could also be 280,000 dragstrip passes,so the odometer never tells the whole story

 

If you remove driver error then the LS1 will win. Trust me when I tell you that you want an LS1 if you can afford one. Just make sure you buy one that is stock. DON'T buy a modded LT1/LS1 because you know it's been drivin hard and probably raced regularly at a track.

I would try and find a 98 or 99 M6 with about 50k miles on it and still bone stock down to the paper filter and quiet muffler. The LS1 will beat the LT1 if it has the same mods. The stories you hear of LT1's walking LS1's do happen but only when the LT1 heavily outmods the LS1 or the LS1 driver makes critical driving mistakes.

Get a LS1, get a M6, mod it yourself and for Pete sakes have some fun.

Good Luck

 

It all depends on what you want. I had a 2002 z28 with a few mods and a 100 shot N20. I sold it because I wanted something faster and cheaper. I had about $4000 after I sold my 2002. I bought a '95 z28 with a bad motor for $2000 (cosmetically great for a '95). I took out a loan against the car for $6000. I built a new motor (forged bottom end, cam, good heads etc.) plus headers, and other bolt ons. I had a tranny built to handle 600 + HP (shift kit, stall etc.). I also have a direct port fogger kit getting installed as we speak. I have a few things to buy still but I can wrap the car up for less than $2000 more (home built 8.8 rear, tires plus a few small things). I will have around $12000 -$13000 total in a car that should reliably go 10's and work as a daily driver and the drivetrain has 0 miles (well about 2000 now).

I loved my ls1, but it wasn't for me. I know first hand they are better motors, but I could not do what I wanted with one. I don't think you can own a reliable 10 second Ls1 for under $13,000. Both are great cars.

Dustin

 

Ahh but you can have a reliable 10 second LS1. Just not for 13K or less. You have to remember that most people do not have to knowledge or tools to swap engines, trannys, drivetrains, ect at will. You are talking about rebuilding engines and trannys (in other words a project car). I'm talking about buying a reliable semi-low mileage daily driver and adding a few power adding bolt-ons. Those are two completly different scenarios.

LS1's have been taken into the 10's and still considered reliable transportation. It's not cheap but certainly doable. I know a few people on these boards with big setups on LS1's such as:

2001 or 2002 with ls6 intake, lid, cutout, 224/224 114 lsa cam and polished/ported heads, all bolt-ons including LT headers, 4000 stall TC, 12 bolt rear end, TH400 tranny or stage 2 or better 4l60e and a juicy 150 shot of N20.

Now that certainly isn't a cheap project but then you have a very fast ride that can be drivin to and from work and the track. So it's not just LT1's that have the market on fast and streetable.

Like you said it depends on what you want. Some people want a 10 second LT1 while others want a 10 second LS1. Or like one guy I met some want a 8.9 second first generation camaro (he was running a 400 shot of N20).

Now that was a fast car and he didn't even need a LT1 or LS1 to go that fast. Imagine that.

 

I think we are saying about the same thing. I know you can go very fast reliably in an LS1 car (probably even faster than an Lt1 given the same level of reliability) You just have to pay for it. I can't tell anyone else what they want.

 

Hey guys, this is getting long but I like the decussion with out the usual slam on LT1's from the LS1 guys (and gals). I still have both in 6-speeds. My oldest daughter drives the LT1 but she knows it is mine to keep for me. If you are looking for an everyday driver than I say go LS1. Unless you are going to do all the work yourself to mod an LT1. I love the torque at low rpm on the LT1. It does fell better than the LS1 (IMO). But that said I would rather be on the street in the LS1 because I know that if or when I need to dust someone the LS1 will do it most of the time. Both can be made faster than the other if you want to throw $ at them. It just depends on what you want to do. Quarter mile killer, street high speed killer, etc.... I'd look hard for a '97 if you go LT1 since they have the more rare newer style interior. (Only year like it). Hard to say which one to get, that is why I am going to try to hang on to both. I plan on modding the LT1 later for the strip/ and or track and drive the LS1 for street fun. Hope that helps. Later>>>>>>

 

Try keeping this civil. Ported LS1/LS6 heads have port sizes that big. Hell, the CNC'ed AFR versions of the LS1 head have 205cc ports and flow 300cfm.

 

let me look for GMs official specs.

 

Yeah I've got a 98 and my mom has an 01 so I have driven both. I would say the 01 doesn't have any more noticeable power at any rpm. When I launch either of them hard they both respond well. Maybe on paper one is superior but I haven't felt any real-world difference between the 2.