buy an ls1 or another lt1???
#31
lol no it doesnt.what makes the design so superior that equal head flow would still result in more power in the LS1 head?what exactly are you talkin about? OK i guess the LS1 defies the laws of physics now too huh?
#32
I should have know before I posted that some ignornat person would have something to say about my thread just because they dont own an LS1 or are in denial ....Sorry , but they have a superior head desighn , after 6200 RPM's LT1 heads stop making power . even ported . It is because of the heads desighn . No where in my thread does it says " gravity defiance " Guess I didnt word it like I wanted to . OR should have .
#34
Originally posted by Jilly
Do you even need to ask? LS1 of course.
Do you even need to ask? LS1 of course.
#36
Originally posted by MauriSSio
lol no it doesnt.what makes the design so superior that equal head flow would still result in more power in the LS1 head?what exactly are you talkin about? OK i guess the LS1 defies the laws of physics now too huh?
lol no it doesnt.what makes the design so superior that equal head flow would still result in more power in the LS1 head?what exactly are you talkin about? OK i guess the LS1 defies the laws of physics now too huh?
Because it takes a larger port on the LT1 to flow the same numbers on a LS1 style head. Smaller port = higher velocity = more power.
Plug changes are a lot easier. With the rear bolt on the passenger side coil pack assembly out I can do them in 45 minutes. The first time you do them you could spend an extra hour getting that one bolt out. You leave it out after the first time. Also I installed the MAC headers in 4 hours, and that was the first time I had installed headers on a LS1. I've done Grotts, ASM and other headers on LT1s and even DOHC Cobras. Much easier on the LS1.
#37
LOL are you ignorant?Do you even know what size the ports ARE on an LS1?they are somewhere in the 210-220CC range which is HUGE!The LT1 has 170cc ports which would explain why it has better off idle/low range torque (which doesnt help much in a race i know). there are LT1 heads on the market that flow more than LS1 heads at 190cc which would = more torque AND HP. Bottom line airflow = HP and the lower cc's keep the velocity up. With the LS1 the ports are humongous (which is why they flow so well) and they tried o get some velocity back by narrowing the ports. Look guys why do you take this as being negative?im not callin names or sayin "LS1 sucks" im just stating the facts.You guys dont have to get so defensive. All im sayin is you can make an LT1 car faster for cheaper than an LS1 car,sure it MIGHT have more creeks and rattles and even messed up interior (on some) but dollar for dollar if u wanna go faster just get the LT1. If you want a nicer car just get the LS1 car itll be newer/less headaches and u might thank yourself if you dont like workin on the car too much either. Dont get me wrong i like the LS1 too,but im just speaking from a performance standpoint.
#38
[i]All im sayin is you can make an LT1 car faster for cheaper than an LS1 car,sure it MIGHT have more creeks and rattles and even messed up interior (on some) but dollar for dollar if u wanna go faster just get the LT1. [/B]
TCI SSF3500 TC with trans cooler & shift kit $750
Pair of sticky tires $400
Pacesetter LT headers with Y-pipe $500
Lid $100
Electric cutout $150
ARA ram air kit $200
ASP underdrive pulley $150
There are of course a lot more mods we could do but that is a nice bolt-on only list that could easily get you low 12's and for minimal cost without touching the internals or adding power adders like N20.
Add just a cam (since the heads flow so well) and your 11's all day. Of course the LT1 could also get there but it would need more to do it. The only advantage the LT1 has is it's sound and it's cheaper to buy. But you have to give up looks, gas milage and deal with a higher mileage older car.
Not worth it IMO. Get the LS1 and just bolt-ons can make it scream down the street or track.
#39
actually a stock lt1 stops making hp at 5800 rpms , hey guys I really appereciate the replys, More would be helpful, LOL. im going with a 6spd, i have to have one, i love playing with the gears n stuff. so what would some 4:10s and some exhaust and cold air do for a stock ls1?? 6spd of cousre
#40
Try picking up an LS1 car for the same price as an LT1 car,u gotta throw that into your one- sided equation. LS1 cars cost 6-10K more. now with that 6-10 K you can build a pretty awsome car. Also, LT1 cars look meaner IMO , but looks are subjective,track times/MPH arent. Yeah the STOCK Cammed LT1 stops makin power at 5800 but the restrictions is in the headflow not the RPM the engine spins at.
#41
Originally posted by hot936spd
actually a stock lt1 stops making hp at 5800 rpms , hey guys I really appereciate the replys, More would be helpful, LOL. im going with a 6spd, i have to have one, i love playing with the gears n stuff. so what would some 4:10s and some exhaust and cold air do for a stock ls1?? 6spd of cousre
actually a stock lt1 stops making hp at 5800 rpms , hey guys I really appereciate the replys, More would be helpful, LOL. im going with a 6spd, i have to have one, i love playing with the gears n stuff. so what would some 4:10s and some exhaust and cold air do for a stock ls1?? 6spd of cousre
Pacesetter Headers with Y-pipe $500.
Electric cutout $150
New shifter (5.0 or ripper shifter) $180
ARA ram air $200
Pair of Drag Radials $350
4.10 gears $200
You'd need to make some adjustments with LS1edit or pay for a tune at a performance shop to correct speedo for gears and get max performance from headers. $200 if done at a shop.
Now with a decent launch and good shifting I could see mid 12's out of that but you will be putting your 10 bolt rear end at serious risk. That is one of the drag racing setbacks of M6 cars. They break rear ends easy with slicks and somewhat easy on Drag Radials with enough horse power. The A4 can run low 12's all day on a 10 bolt but the auto trans is far easier on the rear end.
So if you want to launch hard then also figure in a 12 bolt or 9" rear end which unfortunately would set you back another $2500. If your content with easier launches on Drag Radials or keeping street tires then you'll be fine.
M6's are definately fun bro so get one if that's what you really want. They rule the streets but need a little more $$$ to make them handle hard launches once you add some power.
Good Luck!
#42
Originally posted by MauriSSio
Try picking up an LS1 car for the same price as an LT1 car,u gotta throw that into your one- sided equation. LS1 cars cost 6-10K more. now with that 6-10 K you can build a pretty awsome car. Also, LT1 cars look meaner IMO , but looks are subjective,track times/MPH arent. Yeah the STOCK Cammed LT1 stops makin power at 5800 but the restrictions is in the headflow not the RPM the engine spins at.
Try picking up an LS1 car for the same price as an LT1 car,u gotta throw that into your one- sided equation. LS1 cars cost 6-10K more. now with that 6-10 K you can build a pretty awsome car. Also, LT1 cars look meaner IMO , but looks are subjective,track times/MPH arent. Yeah the STOCK Cammed LT1 stops makin power at 5800 but the restrictions is in the headflow not the RPM the engine spins at.
In a few years LS1's will be harder to find with lower miles. I say get one now while they are easy to find with under 50k miles and under $15k (at least for 98-00 years). LT1's are fine and if money is tight I would go that route. But if you can afford a LS1 it's worth the extra $$$ and can be a faster bolt-on car then the LT1 would be.
I'm not disagreeing that LT1 is cheaper. I'm not disagreeing that the LT1 can be very fast with mods. But I am disagreeing that LT1 is better.
Last edited by darrens99formul; 01-06-2004 at 05:44 PM.
#43
but with the money you save u can just build a NEW modded LT1 with 0 miles as apposed to a 60,000-100,000 mile LS1. I never said the LT1 was better either,im just arguing from a price standpoint. I would love to have a newer car. But sometimes u gotta sacrifice somethings,sometimes its money sometimes its amenities sometimes its need for speed.it just matters whats more important to you thats all.
#44
Originally posted by MauriSSio
but with the money you save u can just build a NEW modded LT1 with 0 miles as apposed to a 60,000-100,000 mile LS1. I never said the LT1 was better either,im just arguing from a price standpoint. I would love to have a newer car. But sometimes u gotta sacrifice somethings,sometimes its money sometimes its amenities sometimes its need for speed.it just matters whats more important to you thats all.
but with the money you save u can just build a NEW modded LT1 with 0 miles as apposed to a 60,000-100,000 mile LS1. I never said the LT1 was better either,im just arguing from a price standpoint. I would love to have a newer car. But sometimes u gotta sacrifice somethings,sometimes its money sometimes its amenities sometimes its need for speed.it just matters whats more important to you thats all.
But lets say person Y has only 2.5k in the bank but makes enough money to justify a $350ish car payment and it'll be his daily driver. Since dealerships don't allow you to finance mod money they might be better off with an LS1. They could finance a 99 or 2000 LS1 with say 40kish miles on it for around $15k and only use say $500 of thier savings as the down payment. Then with the 2k they can get some nasty bolt-ons that will give them one heck of a fast daily driver/weekend track warrior.
Now if person Y wants to get a LT1 instead they would have a much better car payment but also a slower car since the mod money is not readily available but would rather have to be saved over time. But then they have a older car, higher miles and get less MPG.
We all have to live and drive within our means. If I could afford a Z06 I sure as heck would not own a LS1. But for my income this is the best I can drive and I do so very contently. If I could not afford my car then I would get an LT1 as it's the next best thing. But I would never, ever suggest to someone who could afford an LS1 to get an LT1 just as I would never suggest to anyone who could afford a Z06 or Viper to get an LS1.
Stay within your means by all means but when he asked if a LS1 is worth the extra dollars the answer is clear. Yes it is.
#45
lol,well then,i didnt know we were talkin dealership deals here.ive been figuring on private owner sales with an unsecured loan.but whatever floats your boat. If you gettin a car at a dealership than im guessing LS1 is the way to go. lotsa $$$ but i guess.