i have to use the cupholder in the passenger door. I had to drink accidents using the center console one. I'm 6'5 so fortunately i can actially reach it while i'm driving.

 

Power window motors blow and replacing them even blows more!

 

Once again the info you provide is most accurate!!

 

i have zero complants if you dont like something change it. thats what after market is for. well i guess i have a few complaints my car shakes back and forth like a getto butty, and my body tend to twist when the wheels lift off the ground. other than that zero complaints.

 

I have had a 96 ta,97 taws6 and now 96 z28 vert and also still have a 99 taws6.

Things don't like about my fourth gens.Window motors are weak crap.Opticrap is stupidest thing I have ever seen.Under water pump,how freakin retarded are these gm engineers.Rear end is joke and belongs in 100 hp s10 truck.come to think of it thats where its from.Should have been minimum 10 bolt 8.5 like my 80 ta.
The cat hump is pretty stupid but I am not a passenger very often so really don't care about that..its not my problem.
The engine being under the cowl does make it a pain to work on but guess that gives it the front rear balance for good handling and you have to sacrifice some things for styling.
Other things..lt1 brakes are pretty lame compared to ls1 brakes.Pop up headlight gears are cheap crap plastic.Interior is cheap and will scratch easily.Ford makes great tough plastic interiors.Not that I am a ford fan.
People complain its low and doors are big..a price we pay for styling.They are great looking cars.
Engines seem pretty reliable,trannies not too bad so far.Actually all my f bodies have been very good reliability wise.I like the fact most panels on the car are not metal.Unfortunate they made the back quarters metal so they stil get dents from doors and the dents on top of back quarters is stupid and I put subframe connectors on my cars some from day one and they still have them.
Another complaint it subframe design.They need subfame connectors.
They do rattle and squeak quite a bit but the vette I drove the other day a 98 wasn't so great either.
They handle pretty good,ride not too bad aside from the rattles and mainly they look good,go fast and are fun to play with.

Now I do have sort of an import too.92 eagle talon awd turbo.Its big fun,gets great traction,looks pretty cool and as for reliability well you pretty much need to buy two or them and parts can be very pricey on import stuff.When warranty is gone you better hope its a common car and even then you could be in shellshock when you see the price of things we get for relatively cheap from gm.They call the mits dealers satan on the dsm talon boards and porche or other import parts can be crazy bucks too.

 

Can you imagine how pissed we'd all be if they put a rear mouted distributor in there?

Envision having to drop the engine to pull a distributor...There'd be folks foaming at the mouth.

As for the cupholders, the center one on M6s is a joke, but my formy has the flip out passenger one too. That's the one I stow my very mandatory travel mug of morning coffee in.

 

I've never had so much laughs reading a thread before. You all are right on the money but I wouldn't trade her for anything.

 

It was probably already mentioned but I'll have to add this one to my list...
The wonderful plastic retainer that holds the leather shifter bag in place because it's so fragile.

 

I'd have to say the cup holder. I mean, whats up with that?

 

I've taken the transmission out enough times that it is becoming an art form for me. I put 2 ea. 2 x 4 boards on top of a piece of plywood with a space big enough between them for the seam in the transmission to slip into. A rachet strap goes over the trans and under the board to hold it. This gives a flat surface to sit on the floor jack which it does nicely and safely. The second thing I found out was that a 1/4" drive swivel socket will get that top bell housing bolt with no problems. Get a good one that they will replace if you break it. The third thing was that the allignment tool for the clutch disk isn't nearly accurate enough. With the tool in place, align the disk by feel with your fingers before final tighten on the pressure plate. You will find this is about 1/4" closer and will end your alignment woes. I personally prefer a swivel extension in the middle of that 3' socket extension but it isn't really necessary. I love that car. humps, dents, opti and all. I just scanned it again last weekend and it hasn't even thrown a temporary code in 2 years.

 

After hearing about the rear quarter dings, I got to thinking. At my community college we had a 97 30th anniversary Camaro as one of the "shop" cars. Now most of these cars were donated because they had flood damage or other problems, but the camaro seemed perfect. I asked one of the instructors why we had the Camaro, and he said that there was a problem with the rear quarters. Apparently the stamping process had a flaw in it, and the quarters were dented. I went outside and looked, and asure enough one of the quarters had a large, shallow dent in it. You had to be looking for it to see it, but it was definately there. I have a feeling this was a widespread problem. Maybe some of the sheetmetal was too thin, or the stamping dies were screwed up. I don't know the exact cause, but I believe many cars slipped through quality control, and possibly later on down the road developed problems. Just my .02.

 

Me too.

 

everyone complains about the optispark, but I deleted mine and installed a hei distributor so now rather than being able to service it from the front I have to drop the engine out because its 6" under the windsheild. Although the pluses do out weigh the negatives, and I hope the go completely tubular on the front end this winter.

 

94 opti
hump in floor
water in from open windows when spraying window washer & its aimed at window/door latch electronics
Rear hatch water residual when opening, (future rust)
weak & noisy rear end
cheap door motors
spark plug access
small front brake rotors (93-97)
Battery should be in trunk (8 cyl)

 

Battery should be in trunk (8 cyl)

Takes 18 feet of 4 gauge cable Pretty easy to do