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Trying to track down an issue with my passenger side power door lock. I've established that the issue is with the the wiring and not the solenoid itself. The solenoid works when tested with a power probe. The solenoid has two wires running to it, a gray one and a kind of pale orange one. Based on the drivers side, which works, each should be ground when the switch isn't pressed, then one should be powered and the other should stay ground depending on which way the switch is pressed. On the passenger side, the gray wire works properly (reads ground unless the switch is pressed the right way), but the orange wire is dead. I'm trying to find where these wires connect once they enter the car from the door so I can check for continuity. After removing the kick panel I can see what's in the attached picture. Can anyone tell me which plug connects to the wires for the lock (or if it's in a different place)?
The door lock switches are wired in a configuration so both solenoids will operate at the same time when either switch is activated. The switches control the polarity of the power supply to the solenoids to lock or unlock the door. The gray and tan wires are going to the solenoids from the driver door switch and are spliced after that switch to go to both door lock solenoids. The orange wire should be the 12V power supply to the switches and will be hot to a body ground when the ignition switch is in the "ON" or "Accessary" positions, plus when the Retained Accessary Power system is activated. What I'm confused about is if either door switch operates the solenoids or just the passenger door switch doesn't control them? If just the passenger door switch isn't working, the problem will most likely be a bad contact in that switch. If the passenger door solenoid isn't operating and the driver does, you'll need to check the tan and gray wires for continuity to the door solenoid for a broken wire or poor connection in a connector. I've attached a copy of the door lock circuit that should help explain how the switches are wired and operate.
Last edited by peterpar; Jan 23, 2021 at 02:59 AM.
If you have AU0 Keyless entry, it can get a bit more complicated.
Fred, you're absolutely right. The keyless entry will complicate the operation of the locks and looking closer at the picture posted, I believe that is the keyless entry receiver mounted on the right side kick panel. Even with the keyless option, the door switches should still operate the lock solenoids unless the normally closed contacts of the keyless receiver relays are damaged and no longer able to close. If I'm understanding correctly what he's described above, the driver door lock solenoid is functional with that doors switch which should indicate the keyless entry relays normally closed contacts are in the closed position allowing the circuit to pass through them. As I said above, if one door's solenoid is working and the other is not, I would check for continuity of the wires going the solenoid not working for a broken wire or a bad connection in a connector going to it.
Last edited by peterpar; Jan 23, 2021 at 01:56 PM.
As I said above, if one door's solenoid is working and the other is not, I would check for continuity of the wires going the solenoid not working for a broken wire or a bad connection in a connector going to it.
I didn't make this as clear as I should have; The switches both work. If I hit lock/unlock on either switch (driver or passenger), the driver side door will lock/unlock accordingly. The problem is that the passenger side door will not. My first thought was that the solenoid might be bad, but if you power one lead and ground the other the solenoid does work. The next thing I tried was, as you suggested, to check continuity. What I was trying to ask originally was where the wires for that solenoid connect under the dash/behind the kick panel, since I need to unplug them to check for continuity to the other end (where they plug into the solenoid).
What I was trying to ask originally was where the wires for that solenoid connect under the dash/behind the kick panel, since I need to unplug them to check for continuity to the other end (where they plug into the solenoid).
This illustration shows the location of connector C2 on the Keyless Entry Receiver. The gray and tan wires are suppling power to the solenoids. I don't see any other connectors between the Keyless Receiver and the solenoids shown on the drawings.
This illustration show the pin locations of the terminals used for the gray and tan solenoid wires. Please note this view is looking down at the connector face with the wires exiting out the back of the connector body.
........What I was trying to ask originally was where the wires for that solenoid connect under the dash/behind the kick panel, since I need to unplug them to check for continuity to the other end (where they plug into the solenoid).
That's why I suggested downloading the factory service manual. It has all these diagrams, and tables showing where each component is located, etc..
Found a break in the tan cable and fixed it, lock still didn't work. Took a closer look at the keyless module and found some corrosion. After opening it up it looks like a little moisture got in there at some point. Not surprising considering the car sat for a couple years and has some other water damage. Hopefully that should be the last of the problems with the locks. I appreciate the help, guys.
Unfortunately it sat wet (car sat in the previous owner's driveway for 4 years). Its pretty corroded. If I can't find a replacement I could try to clean it, but I'm not super optimistic about it.
Found a break in the tan cable and fixed it, lock still didn't work. Took a closer look at the keyless module and found some corrosion. After opening it up it looks like a little moisture got in there at some point.
Have you checked to make sure the "H" terminal has a good tight connection between the receiver and connector? You should have continuity between terminals "G" and "H" and individually from each terminal to a body ground source with the connector installed. If the tan wire has been repaired to the passenger door and the driver door is still the only solenoid working, the connection at the "H" terminal connector has to be the problem spot. The driver door solenoid uses the same keyless receiver circuit conductor internally from the relay #2 NC contacts to the splice as the passenger door solenoid does. Therefore, if the driver door lock is working, terminal "H" should be have the same potential.
From: Born on the Florida West Coast, now where can I retire?
Re: Wiring for power door locks
Originally Posted by BCat
Unfortunately it sat wet (car sat in the previous owner's driveway for 4 years). Its pretty corroded. If I can't find a replacement I could try to clean it, but I'm not super optimistic about it.
You don't absolutely need a keyless entry module unless you really want the keyless function to work. If all else fails, just bypass it to look like the version without the option: Unplug and remove the keyless entry module. At the black C2 connector to the module, connect the two tan wires (G and H) to the black/orange wire (A), and connect the grey wire (C) to the red/ black wire (B).
