VATS question
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 37
From: Tarboro, NC
VATS question
I have another VATS question regarding the car in my sig. I have done a search and haven’t found the answer to this question, at least to the degree where I am comfortable with pursuing this repair on my own.
Yesterday, out of the blue, my car would not start. The battery and alternator are good, all connections are good. When I turned the key in the ignition, all accessories powered up just like they should. Everything seemed normal except the starter was not powered up. As I looked for indications from the dash lights, I saw the “Security” light was *flashing*. I had previously read enough about the VATS to know what I was being told by the light. I worked the key in-and-out of the ignition to try to clear any debris or anything that would prevent the proper reading of the resistor pellet in the key. After doing this and waiting about 3-4 minutes, the car started.
Once started, I drove the car immediately to Radio Shack to buy the resistors I would need to do a VATS Bypass. When I got to RS, I had a few frustrating moments from the guy behind the counter who assured me that he did not have a multi-meter with which to do the resistance check I needed to do on my key. Seriously??? After talking with a more knowledgeable associate, I was given a meter and was able to determine the resistor value.
I have since driven the car a couple of times and now the “Security” light is on without flashing. My question is…If I do the VATS Bypass, will it fix both the steady light and the flashing light conditions? Sorry, I haven’t had time yet to scan for codes, and do not know what codes I should be looking for when I do get the chance to make the scan. I saw a lot of info during my search on this site relating to LT1s. Are there any appreciable differences in how the bypass is done on a LS1 as opposed to a LT1?
Yesterday, out of the blue, my car would not start. The battery and alternator are good, all connections are good. When I turned the key in the ignition, all accessories powered up just like they should. Everything seemed normal except the starter was not powered up. As I looked for indications from the dash lights, I saw the “Security” light was *flashing*. I had previously read enough about the VATS to know what I was being told by the light. I worked the key in-and-out of the ignition to try to clear any debris or anything that would prevent the proper reading of the resistor pellet in the key. After doing this and waiting about 3-4 minutes, the car started.
Once started, I drove the car immediately to Radio Shack to buy the resistors I would need to do a VATS Bypass. When I got to RS, I had a few frustrating moments from the guy behind the counter who assured me that he did not have a multi-meter with which to do the resistance check I needed to do on my key. Seriously??? After talking with a more knowledgeable associate, I was given a meter and was able to determine the resistor value.
I have since driven the car a couple of times and now the “Security” light is on without flashing. My question is…If I do the VATS Bypass, will it fix both the steady light and the flashing light conditions? Sorry, I haven’t had time yet to scan for codes, and do not know what codes I should be looking for when I do get the chance to make the scan. I saw a lot of info during my search on this site relating to LT1s. Are there any appreciable differences in how the bypass is done on a LS1 as opposed to a LT1?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 37
From: Tarboro, NC
Re: VATS question
Sorry about posting in the wrong forum. However, I found this series of videos that may help the next person looking for the fix. $1.25 and I am back on the road.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m804amtkQjE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m804amtkQjE
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