Ok so I picked up a 96 z28 with a 100 shot.

I have never ran it before. Just back in the game of hot rods been out for 15 years.

Last owner told me it ran 12.11 at 110 mph on a 50 shot.

 

could you be more specific with your question? i honestly have no idea what youre asking.

 

Can you tell me how to use it. I agree the above message is junk. Must have been half a sleep Sorry.
I need details on how to use it or if I should just not use it.

 

What else is done to the engine beside the 100-shot? Take a bit more than that for the car run very low 12's.

It is a manual or automatic trans?

Is the nitrous system wet or dry?

 

it has 30,000 miles on the motor and 10,000 miles on the transmission.
upgrades:
100 shot NOS
K&N cold air intake
forged pistons
nitrous cam
computer was reflashed for nitrous
bigger injectors
ported and polished heads
160 thermostat
electric water pump
ceramic coated headers with 2.5" magnaflow exhaust
electric fans
shift kit
2200 stahl converter
polyurethane engine and tranny mounts
I am not sure if it is wet or dry How can I tell.

 

A wet system uses a nozzle (or nozzles) that combine the nitrous and fuel and spray it into the intake manifold. A dry system puts the nitrous in the intake manifold, and uses the fuel injectors to add the extra fuel, either through programming (difficult to do with a stock PCM) or by boosting the fuel pressure. The normal LT1 dry system boosts the fuel pressure.

It's unusual to "reflash" the PCM for nitrous. You want to use the PCM to tune the engine for maximum power WITHOUT the nitrous, then use external methods to control the extra fuel (fuel jet size) and the ignition timing (retard box).

With that setup, you don't want to spray below 3,500RPM. The stall on the converter is so low (why - that's barely over stock?) that its not going to flash high enough if you spray below 3,500. Low RPM + nitrous = detonation/broken ring lands, etc.

You need to trace down how your system is operated. Ideally, you want a "window switch" that allows you to set the RPM the nitrous will spray, and cuts it off before you hit the red line or the (automatic) shift points. You want to avoid spraying on the stock rev limiter, because it cuts fuel.

You need to find out exactly what system you have, how it gets the extra fuel when you spray, and whether the setup includes the features like the window switch, spark retard, etc.

 

Wish I would have asked these questions before I bought it.
This is what I know about the nitrous system.

There is a switch that you turn on that "arms the system" then hit the button. I also traced the hose and it appears that it drops in the air intake. I should take it to a shop and have them look at it.

 

Some people will simply spray the nitrous in front of the MAF sensor, and hope it works. Generally not a good idea with the LT1. Works great on the LS1 cars though.