HELP! Fuse Problem
HELP! Fuse Problem
Fuse panel/block issue...
I installed an Autometer Trans temp gauge in my 96TA. I spliced the 12v light wire directly to the dimmer wire on the headlamp/dimmer switch. Installed a power tap on the 15Amp accessory fuse in the panel to supply the gauge with the 12V "switched" power. Hooked the battery back up and turned my headlamps on, gauge lit up, and played with the dimmer and that worked as well. Worked great for a couple days, then today i was replacing a blown fuse for the radio, s**t hit the fan.
When I replaced the fuse for the radio, i pressed kinda hard on the fuse block and pushed it back into the dash a little. The bolt didn't break, just bent the plastic a little bit.
Now, when i turn the headlamps on, within 1-3 sec the tail lamps fuse blows. (left side of block/panel 3rd fuse down) This is a 20Amp fuse and i have blown it several times, i even tried putting a 30Amp fuse in and that still goes. I removed the 12v switch power wired from the fuse panel for the gauge to see if that was the issue.
Is it possible to push the fuse block back and have some of the wires ground on something?? That would cause the fuse to blow? I pulled the trim pieces off and got the best look i could at the back of the fuse block everything looks ok...
HELP!! Anyone have ideas????
I installed an Autometer Trans temp gauge in my 96TA. I spliced the 12v light wire directly to the dimmer wire on the headlamp/dimmer switch. Installed a power tap on the 15Amp accessory fuse in the panel to supply the gauge with the 12V "switched" power. Hooked the battery back up and turned my headlamps on, gauge lit up, and played with the dimmer and that worked as well. Worked great for a couple days, then today i was replacing a blown fuse for the radio, s**t hit the fan.
When I replaced the fuse for the radio, i pressed kinda hard on the fuse block and pushed it back into the dash a little. The bolt didn't break, just bent the plastic a little bit.
Now, when i turn the headlamps on, within 1-3 sec the tail lamps fuse blows. (left side of block/panel 3rd fuse down) This is a 20Amp fuse and i have blown it several times, i even tried putting a 30Amp fuse in and that still goes. I removed the 12v switch power wired from the fuse panel for the gauge to see if that was the issue.
Is it possible to push the fuse block back and have some of the wires ground on something?? That would cause the fuse to blow? I pulled the trim pieces off and got the best look i could at the back of the fuse block everything looks ok...
HELP!! Anyone have ideas????
Any chance the one of the wires is cut and touching a metal bracket under there? Sounds like some how you are going to have to trace the wiring in the fuse box and behind.
I wouldn't recommend going up on the fuse size. There is a good reason for the fuse blown. I have heard of people using bigger fuses or paper clips to bypass the fuse all together and ended up with a car fire.
Any chance you got a pic of the back of your fuse box/wires?
Also is there any smoke or electrical short noise coming from anywhere in your car? (other than the fuse)
If you have a multi meter that has the "beep" setting (tells you when it gets a competed circuit), you can put one probe on the terminal where the fuse would be and the other on various wires. Test everything, fuse terminals both sides of the terminals where the blown fuse would be. If you get a beep on one of the other terminals, this means that you have a direct short. Also a good way is to have one lead on the body (negative) and test all wires and fuse terminals.
There may be a way to test for resistance if you dont have the "beep" function. I believe if you get a really high ohms resistance reading that there is no short. If you get a much lower ohm resistance reading that that would be what is shorting out.
I wouldn't recommend going up on the fuse size. There is a good reason for the fuse blown. I have heard of people using bigger fuses or paper clips to bypass the fuse all together and ended up with a car fire.
Any chance you got a pic of the back of your fuse box/wires?
Also is there any smoke or electrical short noise coming from anywhere in your car? (other than the fuse)
If you have a multi meter that has the "beep" setting (tells you when it gets a competed circuit), you can put one probe on the terminal where the fuse would be and the other on various wires. Test everything, fuse terminals both sides of the terminals where the blown fuse would be. If you get a beep on one of the other terminals, this means that you have a direct short. Also a good way is to have one lead on the body (negative) and test all wires and fuse terminals.
There may be a way to test for resistance if you dont have the "beep" function. I believe if you get a really high ohms resistance reading that there is no short. If you get a much lower ohm resistance reading that that would be what is shorting out.
Last edited by Oxygen454; Mar 28, 2008 at 12:53 AM.
I just used a bigger fuse to see what would happen, if it would blow that one or not. It wasn't going to be a permanent fix, learned that one the hard way.. lol
I looked at the back of the block, i didnt see any hangin wires or anythin. A pic of the block wouldnt be all that great, because i cant even pull the block unless i pretty much rip the entire dash outta the car.. Easiest access is from where the headlamp switch is mounted, i can kinda see whats goin on. I can also pull the box out of where it mounts a little bit, but not a whole lot due to the massive amounts of wiring yet, no length..
I looked at the back of the block, i didnt see any hangin wires or anythin. A pic of the block wouldnt be all that great, because i cant even pull the block unless i pretty much rip the entire dash outta the car.. Easiest access is from where the headlamp switch is mounted, i can kinda see whats goin on. I can also pull the box out of where it mounts a little bit, but not a whole lot due to the massive amounts of wiring yet, no length..
If there is that much wiring then your best bet might be to test from a ground source to ever single terminal in the fuse harness. If that dosent work test from the blown fuse terminals to all the other terminals in the fuse box. That might be your best bet. Im thinking you have a cut wire or a direct short somewhere. If the wire was loose you would get a spark, smoke, sound of some sort.
One more thing, if you put a new fuse in and move the box around, does that cause the fuse to blow? Or do you have time to even try that lol
I just read on another general car site that if you ground to the radio ground, you apparently can have major shorting problems.
I just read on another general car site that if you ground to the radio ground, you apparently can have major shorting problems.
Last edited by Oxygen454; Mar 28, 2008 at 01:05 AM.
Shoebox has a diagram, not sure if the colors will be the same as your year but I think it should be. If you can read schematics you might be able to figure out what wires to chase. Dark green or yellow to tail lights?
Electrical Diagram
Also probably not a issue but if tail lights have water in them or the wires running to them have been damaged, this also could be a short. I dont think this is your problem though.
Electrical Diagram
Also probably not a issue but if tail lights have water in them or the wires running to them have been damaged, this also could be a short. I dont think this is your problem though.
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