what is wrong with my engine?
#1
what is wrong with my engine?
So here is my story:
I posted a week or two ago and cannot find it so I will retell that story. I sat in ym car and turned on the radio or an hour. However i did not turn my key into the accessories option but I turned it right into the start position without starting the engine. needless to say my coil overheated, my points were melted, and I needed new wires to the coil since they got so hot they melted too.
I was unable to get it to work even after replacing the points and coil so I took it to an electricion who put in new parts and added a resistor as well (which I had never had in the two years I used the car, and everythign had been fine without it).
Ever since then my car has been runnign choppy and has been difficult to start. I could not figure out the problem since I even used a timing light and my spark plugs were flashing at the right time. So yet again i took it to a different guy (who I trust) and he said that the problem was he just needed to fine tune the point gap etc. So it ran better for a day but it has gotten worse. At stop lights it sounds horrible liek it is misfiring and sometimes just peters out and dies. I have gotten into the habit of putting it in neutral to prevbent it from dying it is so bad. the car sounds and runs fine when the rpms are higher liek on the freeway. Even starting it takes a few turns and steps on the gas pedal. I am getting pretty confused as to what the heck is wrong sicne the professional mecahnic said it was now timed. Before this whoel incident it would jsut roar to life when I started it and purr like a lion everywhere I drove. What could be the problem? Could that resistor the elcetrician put in be the problem? Any help would be much appreciated!
I posted a week or two ago and cannot find it so I will retell that story. I sat in ym car and turned on the radio or an hour. However i did not turn my key into the accessories option but I turned it right into the start position without starting the engine. needless to say my coil overheated, my points were melted, and I needed new wires to the coil since they got so hot they melted too.
I was unable to get it to work even after replacing the points and coil so I took it to an electricion who put in new parts and added a resistor as well (which I had never had in the two years I used the car, and everythign had been fine without it).
Ever since then my car has been runnign choppy and has been difficult to start. I could not figure out the problem since I even used a timing light and my spark plugs were flashing at the right time. So yet again i took it to a different guy (who I trust) and he said that the problem was he just needed to fine tune the point gap etc. So it ran better for a day but it has gotten worse. At stop lights it sounds horrible liek it is misfiring and sometimes just peters out and dies. I have gotten into the habit of putting it in neutral to prevbent it from dying it is so bad. the car sounds and runs fine when the rpms are higher liek on the freeway. Even starting it takes a few turns and steps on the gas pedal. I am getting pretty confused as to what the heck is wrong sicne the professional mecahnic said it was now timed. Before this whoel incident it would jsut roar to life when I started it and purr like a lion everywhere I drove. What could be the problem? Could that resistor the elcetrician put in be the problem? Any help would be much appreciated!
#3
oops
hmmm very weird. i just made a new account a few weeks ago and thought i filled it all out with pics etc...
anyway i have a 68 camaro, no mods its all stock original, engine is a 327 V8. hope that helps, sorry about not including that info
anyway i have a 68 camaro, no mods its all stock original, engine is a 327 V8. hope that helps, sorry about not including that info
#4
A ballast resistor is almost always necessary to help give longer life to the points. It sounds like to me the point gap was set too small. In which case, the points will burn very fast. It usually runs well for a short period and then goes to hell quickly. A visual on the points surface is advised. The point gap should always be set with a Dwell meter. Also, after placing the points in the distributor, always run a piece of paper or a business card through them to clean the surface.
Last, since the car sat with the key on for a long period of time, has the battery/ charging voltage been checked? The battery could be so low, it hasn't had a sufficient amount of time to recharge it. Check the voltage across the battery when the engine is being cranked over. It should not be less then 11 volts while the starter is turning. Then after the engine is running, the battery voltage should be around 14 volts.
Ultimately you want to be sure there is the full battery voltage available to the coil on the + terminal. A quick check with a VOM goes a long way.
It also would not hurt to confirm the mechanical advance is working. Check the base timing both without and with the vacuum connected. Then rev up the engine with the vacuum connected to see that the timing is advancing correctly.
Last, since the car sat with the key on for a long period of time, has the battery/ charging voltage been checked? The battery could be so low, it hasn't had a sufficient amount of time to recharge it. Check the voltage across the battery when the engine is being cranked over. It should not be less then 11 volts while the starter is turning. Then after the engine is running, the battery voltage should be around 14 volts.
Ultimately you want to be sure there is the full battery voltage available to the coil on the + terminal. A quick check with a VOM goes a long way.
It also would not hurt to confirm the mechanical advance is working. Check the base timing both without and with the vacuum connected. Then rev up the engine with the vacuum connected to see that the timing is advancing correctly.
#5
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