Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
Re: Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
Alternative location of coils. Been there for 19 years with no problems.
https://www.camaroz28.com/g/picture/8152251
If you right arrow from that photo, there’s 2 more showing details of each bank.
https://www.camaroz28.com/g/picture/8152251
If you right arrow from that photo, there’s 2 more showing details of each bank.
Re: Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
Odd.....
Left click on my screen name. In the drop down, select “view public profile”. When that opens, a column on the right includes “albums”. Click on “show photos”. When that opens there are about 6 albums. The last one is “Injuneer’s 94 Formula”. Click on that one. When the photos appear, scroll down about 3/4 of the way and there is a series of 3 photos showing 8 LSx coils mounted at the bottom of, and behind the radiator, using threaded rods.
Left click on my screen name. In the drop down, select “view public profile”. When that opens, a column on the right includes “albums”. Click on “show photos”. When that opens there are about 6 albums. The last one is “Injuneer’s 94 Formula”. Click on that one. When the photos appear, scroll down about 3/4 of the way and there is a series of 3 photos showing 8 LSx coils mounted at the bottom of, and behind the radiator, using threaded rods.
Last edited by Injuneer; Nov 15, 2019 at 07:48 AM.
Re: Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
Here's someone who has done the Torqhead conversion:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...issues-887922/
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...issues-887922/
Re: Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
Bit the bullet, ordered and I'm in the process of installing a Torqhead multi-coil system. Lots of interferences encountered with the multi-coil bracket install (I bought the option that bolts to the valve covers). Several observations:
1) The AIR system will interfere on both sides, requiring either relocation/bending of tubing and hoses or elimination of the AIR system. I have decided to eliminate the AIR system but will still need to bend tubing connected to the headers out of the way and plugging them. I decided to eliminate the AIR system because the passenger side has very little space for rerouting, not worth the trouble for a system that is used for a few minutes during cold start.
2) The heater line (passenger side) interferes with the third coil (#6 cylinder). Will need to reroute this hose (new hose will be needed).
3) Bolting the multi-coil brackets to the valve covers requires removing very small allen bolts holding the coils to the bracket, one bolt per coil for the two coils on top of the bracket flanges. These two coils need to be rotated in order to insert and tighten the valve cover fastener. Obviously installation of the small allen coil fastener is very difficult and prone to drop the small bolt. Torquehead should re-design the multi-coil bracket to allow installation without messing with the coil fasteners.
4) The LT1 PCM needs to be replaced with an LS PCM, which is included in the kit. What's not included is the PCM bracket, I bought one used from Hawks, but I could have saved a few bucks by pulling one out of a salvaged car. The LS PCM installs "upside down" compared to the LT, so all the connectors are facing out instead of tucked behind the PCM. The wire harness needs to be rerouted but it just takes minor effort.
5) I have an ATI SuperDamper, so Torqhead provided an ATI compatible hub, nice piece, all important dimensions are identical. Now I have to find the right damper installation tool, as my Proform tool's shaft is too short (don't laugh). I sent them an eMail but have not received a response yet.
1) The AIR system will interfere on both sides, requiring either relocation/bending of tubing and hoses or elimination of the AIR system. I have decided to eliminate the AIR system but will still need to bend tubing connected to the headers out of the way and plugging them. I decided to eliminate the AIR system because the passenger side has very little space for rerouting, not worth the trouble for a system that is used for a few minutes during cold start.
2) The heater line (passenger side) interferes with the third coil (#6 cylinder). Will need to reroute this hose (new hose will be needed).
3) Bolting the multi-coil brackets to the valve covers requires removing very small allen bolts holding the coils to the bracket, one bolt per coil for the two coils on top of the bracket flanges. These two coils need to be rotated in order to insert and tighten the valve cover fastener. Obviously installation of the small allen coil fastener is very difficult and prone to drop the small bolt. Torquehead should re-design the multi-coil bracket to allow installation without messing with the coil fasteners.
4) The LT1 PCM needs to be replaced with an LS PCM, which is included in the kit. What's not included is the PCM bracket, I bought one used from Hawks, but I could have saved a few bucks by pulling one out of a salvaged car. The LS PCM installs "upside down" compared to the LT, so all the connectors are facing out instead of tucked behind the PCM. The wire harness needs to be rerouted but it just takes minor effort.
5) I have an ATI SuperDamper, so Torqhead provided an ATI compatible hub, nice piece, all important dimensions are identical. Now I have to find the right damper installation tool, as my Proform tool's shaft is too short (don't laugh). I sent them an eMail but have not received a response yet.
I do think a couple of area could have better.my alternator also hits the one coil bracket
Re: Troubleshooting suggestions for crank sensor
1357 & 2468 coils were installed after:
1) Air injection hardware removed (had to cut the tubing in 3 places!)
2) 1357 header air injection nipple bent using propane torch to clear the #1 cyl coil
3) Get the heater hose out of the way of 2468 bank, will need to reroute heater hose to clear #6 cyl coil
4) Remove alternator (access for 2468) and rotate end coils (1,7 & 2,8) to bolt bracket to valve covers.
1) Air injection hardware removed (had to cut the tubing in 3 places!)
2) 1357 header air injection nipple bent using propane torch to clear the #1 cyl coil
3) Get the heater hose out of the way of 2468 bank, will need to reroute heater hose to clear #6 cyl coil
4) Remove alternator (access for 2468) and rotate end coils (1,7 & 2,8) to bolt bracket to valve covers.
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dirtybird222
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Nov 8, 2006 01:33 PM



