Anybody run the aeromotive 340lph stealth pumps.

Are they supposed to hold pressure like the stock pump.

I may be able to rule out injector and FPR leakage as my old wolboro held pressure for hours.

What types of symptoms occur with a bad check valve?

I'm chasing an issue where it randomly decides to hard start and run crappy. Any load under throttle it will stumble. Sometimes it will go away and work fine.

 

Would you like me to edit the topic so it matches the pump description in your post?

 

Sure lol I didn't get a chance to figure it out whilst at work lol.

 

I found this link in my list.

Fuel Pump Comparison Test

I run dual high pressure (58 PSI) Bosch pumps. I think the HP ratings in the test in the link are a bit high. Not sure if their calculations allowed for the fact you always want some fuel in the return line.

 

Are these the only options for pumps for an lt1?
I would like to keep an in tank pump.
Right now I have to check the regulator and make sure none of my fuel injectors are leaking which I don't believe they are bc it held pressure with my old wolboro.

It wasn't until I changed to the 340 that I notice the pressure drops right off.

With more tuning i believe i can break 400rwhp and I run a 150 shot but plan on 200.

What would be a good option here if it turns out to be the pump check valve?

 

The Bosch is listed as an 'inline" pump, but I run one in the stock sending unit in the tank, and another outboard, off a connection at the bottom/back of the tank. They come together in a "Y" before the fuel filter. The shop that did the work had a lot of experience with using the Bosch in-tank.

Holding pressure on shutdown of the pump is not essential. I have a Weldon adjustable fuel pressure regulator, mounted under the cowl, on the return line added to the front of my parallel fuel rails. It does not hold the fuel pressure on shutoff, by design. Just a matter of turning the key to "start" just as the two-second prime ends. And only the in-tank pump runs normally. The outboard pump only turns on when the nitrous system is "armed". With the dry system, all the fuel goes through the injectors.

For selecting the pump, you need to consider flywheel HP. Are you looking at wet or dry nitrous?

Racetronix sells their own brand pumps, which is probably just a repackage of someone else's. And there are dual-pump in-tank setups available.

 

Nitrous outlet plate system. 150 shot. Plan on doing 200.
I put down 380/410 To the wheels through the 4l80e and Dana 60.
Could use more tuning.
Looking for just under or close to 600rwhp if possible.
I have the racetronix hot wire and the aeromotive 340 with upgraded wiring.
I just wasn't sure if everything was good as most pumps tend to hold pressure ( that I know of).
I'm chasing issues so I'm looking at every aspect it could be.

 

The fuel system capacity has to be based on flywheel HP, not rear wheel HP.

 

I understand this. That's why I mentioned my trans and rear end. Idk what my FWHP is. Figured your could get a general idea with information provided.

 

Not familiar with power loss through the 4L80E. If it's give or take a percent or two from the 4L60E, and given the low losses through the Dana 60, I would say to assume 17% loss.

600 rwHP / 0.83 = 723 flywheel HP

Nitrous needs to run richer than normally aspirated.