Horrible right now! They're both stock. Well, then again I have, I think a 1000 cfm BBK/Edelbrock throttle body, and I've ported the bores on the manifold to match the throttle body bores. I have a 6.00" crank pulley and 2.95" blower pulley. I make right around 11psi at 6000RPM. I can still go to the 2.75" blower pulley. That will put my S-trim at its efficient max RPM at my engine redline.

 

is not a very good idea to get over that max rpm.. it will start to heat up the air quite a lot...

I would go to the t-trim if i were you.

 

I'd love to, but I can't afford it. This damn car looks good, but every thing is wrong with it. It's nickle and dimein' me to death! Something goes wrong with it every day. I'm going to run two intercoolers in parallel, and I'll watch my inlet teperature. I deffinately won't go "over" the max efficient supercharger RPM.

 

I know several people who will ONLY use Mallory.

 

I have a Mallory pressure regulator and fuel filter, and have had great luck with them so far. I figured why not go with what works. I just wish I could find someone else who is using the pump I want to purchase.

 

I have that pump dood!

I've been running it for several years now with no problems at all. It is a very good pump for the money IMO. It is also rebuildable. Just make sure you don't use a restrictive filter between the tank and pump. I have an aeromotive filter with a 100 micron screen. This is the one to use between the tank and pump.
I measured the current draw awhile back, it was only using like 5 amps.

 

Thanks Ed. It looks like your set up is very similar to mine. I have a Vortech though, but I also have two intercoolers (not on the car yet, plumbing nightmare!) and am at around 10 psi. (just over 11 psi right now) Standard 3.48 inch stroke. Eagle crand and rods, the cheap stuff, cast steel crank, and the SIR rods. I'm using SPEED PRO forged pistons with a 21cc dish. I plan on porting the heads and intake myself, and having Comp grind me a blower cam. I guess I can look forward to numbers similar to yours. What do you run at the track? Thank again for the post.

 

Wow what a topic. I dont think I have ever seen something brought out this long in the forced induction section before

Anyway my .02

My car is a daily driver. I do have the option to turn the boost down with the twist of a ****. However after you feel a power level what is the point in working backwards Most of us want to go faster. Thus, swapping pullies on a blower seems like a waist of time to me. The disadvantage of the blower as a street car is hooking up. You will see XX amount of boost in every gear, where in a turbo its controlable. Next if you want to have it a street car you should have a dual pump/dual cell. So everytime you want to mash on it just flip on a different pump and go. This is how my car is setup.

In conclusion I say yes you can make it a street car. Your gas milage will be no worse then an SUV. If you dont have a dual tank setup it will get spendy when you pour in race gas, because you usually never use it all.

 

You mentioned your dual tank/pump setup. I have a few questions about that. Say you're running on 93 octane and decide to switch over to the race fuel, when you switch systems, it must switch feed and return, so wouldn't you dilute the race fuel a bit every time you switched over (and vice versa). Secondly, about how long does it take to run out the 93 once you switch over?

 

I no longer have the ati on the car. The vortech and aftercooler is being installed at this time. Looking for around 600 horse. With better heads and cam, maybe 650. The vortech v2 supposedly supports at least 680 horse.
My bottom end is pretty healthy, although I'm still using the stock crank. I suppose if anything goes, it will be this.

Haven't had it to the track yet, hopefully it will be soon.

 

680 to the crank.

 

I have 2 pumps. As soon as I turn the weldon fuel pump on it takes about 4 seconds for the race gas to hit the rails. Everytime I switch over I lose a little race gas. What ever is left in the return line from the rail to about the drivers seat where the valves are located I lose a little. It basically all depends on when I switch the valves. If you wait to long it will start pumping 93 back to the race tank. I have had this setup for over a year so I have a good idea now on how long to wait before switching the valves.

 

Glad to have you and Chris on the site. If you spend much time on message boards you know that misinformation abounds, but some of us really appreciate having experts around. For people like myself with a moderate amount of knowledge, it's difficult to meet people in real life that know more and are willing to share it. To me it's important to be able to ask people in cyber space for help... what I'm saying is I hope the "know it alls" don't run you off, as they have so many others (i.e. Chuck Riddeck).

Thanks again

Edit: To clarify, Chuck is one of the many who really does know his stuff, but who is not around any more- partly because of know-it-alls.

PS: Hey stealth, many of us put up with N/A cars that are every bit as obnoxious as a 1,000hp blown car