Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

Valvetrain questions with boost

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #1  
onefastmx5's Avatar
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Valvetrain questions with boost

I plan on running a procharger at 6psi on stock motor as I build this car up. When it is no longer a daily driver, I'd like to upgrade the top end. I want an idea of what i want now, so if I come across good deals I'll buy if funds are available and install later.

LE1 heads w/ stainless valves and beehive springs
comp cam 306
1.6 NSA comp cam roller rockers
comp cam guideplates
chrome-moly pushrods (no idea on what length i'll need)

Any opinions or suggestions welcome

Thanks,
James
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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Sounds like an ok setup to me. How much do you want to make/spend in the end?

306 can usually be found cheap. Not a perfect boost cam but not terrible either.
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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Basically trying to make 500whp (corrected). At this altitude it will only be like 400whp. I like the nice lope of the 306 at idle, and its rated for 2200-6000 which is right where I want it.

Budgetwise- 2000 for a good used p600B procharger kit with FMIC, 1500 top end, 500 fuel pump/injectors/misc, 700 spec 2+ clutch and billet flywheel.
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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I wouldn't bother with the spec 2 - Or really the billet flywheel unless you have a good reason. Put a bit better clutch than that because you will most likely make 550-600 tq to get 500hp in an lt1 with a small-normal cam.

Hitting your goals shouldn't be too hard. The supercharger can be had for less if you hunt for it.

Good luck with it.
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:29 AM
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If the spec clutch is no good, what should I get instead? My friend also said don't waste money on the billet flywheel and just have the stock one resurfaced and balanced.
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 08:37 AM
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Don't always have to resurface it - let a shop decide.

I've got a really bad history with spec - specifically (lol) the 2 and 3. The material is better than stock, but nothing really changes on the design.

If you want to do it and be done - the Mcleod street twin. $$$$
Don't use the mcleod single disk with a factory or spec PP - lots of people have release problems. It held great for the power I put through it @ 10k miles, just would stick if you did a burnout or anything.

Ram has been good to me - the nasty specs work too depending on your driving style.

I now drive a brass clutch with an unsprung hub. People said it would be impossible to drive, but after engaging it once and figuring out where it catches it drives like any other car to me. Similar to the sinistered iron from spec I think.
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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So the RAM powergrip HD clutch should be fine?
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 12:30 AM
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I've used it in the 450 power level before with good results. Again this is my experience - read others and evaluate for yourself. Some people swear by spec.
Old Oct 16, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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thanks jsetzer
Old Oct 18, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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Not to hijack this thread but, Jsetzer, I'm replacing my 6 year old SPEC 4 which had performed perfectly with both Nitrous and now the Turbo. About a month ago was my first trip to the strip with the Turbo and SPEC 4. I made the first pass fine but the second attempt, right after the burnout, it stuck. It wouldn't go into gear with the engine running. AND, after I killed the motor, I put it in 1st and cranked the car. The engine started running and the car lurched forward. I was able to get back into the pits and park. I let the car cool a little bit, assuming I would have to either have it towed or drive it w/o a working clutch(keep it in gear to start, lurch forward and just articulate the gas pedal to facilitate gear changes up and down till I got home). But, when I returned to the car after the cool down, the clutch was working again! This revelation you posted below was the first time I heard of this 'sticking' phenomena.

Main poster... I have the Billet Spec flywheel. On the street, I've loved the SPEC 4. Never slipped ever. I agree with those that have posted not to bother with SPEC clutch below the stage 4.

On the cam, I would suggest the 224/236 Nitrous Xtreme w/112 LSA
Using the 1.6 Rocker ratio, the 224/236 would get you
224/236 .537/.556 112 Xtreme
I've read that the 224/236 has more area under the curve than the 306 and better ramp rates. I used this with my 355 and a 100 shot. NA, the 3,650lb car run 12.0 @ 116mph. With the 100 shot on the same day, it ran 11.1 @ 121mph. 1.6 sixty foots on each. There is a member here, EngineerMike, uses the 224/236 in his turbo setup and his car is wicked quick. I think the 224/236 and the 306 are roughly the same cost.
Here's Engineermikes car. Damn, he's selling it. What a sleeper too!
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...ight=224%2F236
Here's a short video of my 224/236 idling so you can hear the lope. This is minutes after I finished the install in Austin, TX, Dec of 2001.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwSlxmI_eeI
Originally Posted by jsetzer
.....Don't use the mcleod single disk with a factory or spec PP - lots of people have release problems. It held great for the power I put through it @ 10k miles, just would stick if you did a burnout or anything.

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; Oct 18, 2009 at 07:41 AM.
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