I don't think you'll have to worry about that as I don't think they're really around anymore. That pisses me off as I have a moderate exhasut leak apparently on BOTH header flanges, and I'd like "mention" this to them. After all the mods that needed to be done, I would expect at least to not have a header leak at the flange for which there really seems to be no fix other than pulling them off the car which I'm not going to do at the moment.

If you want to see a short clip of it idling pretty much untuned, you can click on my FQuick garage link and check it out.

 

94'BLKBRD, thanks for the vote of confidence!

Snorkel, I feel for ya bro. That blows. Any idea where on the header it is leaking (tube side of the header flange or the gasket side)?

 

I couldn'tt really tell. I'll see the car again on Thursday when it should be dyno'd.

 

Is the loud ticking the exhaust leak I hope? I thought I had an exhaust leak. Makes mine sound way minor.

 

Man... that was some LOUD *** ticking!

-B

 

Both flanges leak from the center exaust ports.

Total and utter BS!

Today, I fixed the explodicus hi press PS line.
Only MSD BTM install stand between the dyno and the car.

 

why did you decide to go 355 instead of 383???what does your 355 consist of(rods,pistons etc.)?

I still haven't made my mind up to go 355 or 383 when I go turbo

thanks in advance

 

After doing a lot of research on this, I liked how the geometry of the the parts worked together on the 355, which should help it in the strength dept a little, and be more reliable (this car will be drven A LOT on the street and the track)

Lunati Sledgehammer crank
JE forged pistons
I think the rods were 5.8 Lunati pro-billet units, but I'll have to double check (had the motor put together some time ago).

I had the motor built so that I could spin it pretty high reliably if I decide to do so, which is why I went with very large beehive springs in the heads as well.

 

thanks for the info....how much pounds of boost do you plan on running?

 

It is easy to get caught up in size.
It is easy to get caught up in this part that part.

If I could put a 2000RWHP reactor the size of a Pepsi can under the hood I'd take it

It's not what you got but what it acts like.
Most NA 383s will be lucky to hit 95%VE.
393 X 95% effective displacment =s 364ci

Kes 355 will have 200% VE on demand.
355 X 200% effective displacment =s 710ci
In reality I expect WAY more power than this car can deal with on a street 315.

Not to mention less overlap
Where we are going to run into problems is the limit of Ca 91 pump gas octane.

My personal NA 358 pumps out what most strokers do. maybe more.
Ken has a second atmostphere under the hood.
I have a second atmostpher in the trunk.

Why 355.

Better extended and max rev capability
Less oil temps around town and on track
Thicker pistopn top ring land!!

 

MSD BTM Installed!!

It is warming up and purging air out of the PS system as I type.

 

Ding ding ding! THAT was the biggest reason. I forgot to mention that!

Woowoo on the BTM!

 

Also lowered the oil return line today.
Cut the turbo / exhaust oiling in half.
If it keeps up, I will call Precision Turbo tomarrow.

 

I got PTK's hot parts and had to modify the ever living **** out of them in order to make them work! The wastegate was a nightmare, the downpipe needed to be modded several times and ways, they didnt include ANY bracing for the turbo (which is pretty ****** heavy!!)!

AND I have very minor leaks on two of the V-band flanges cause they warped when they were welded (from the looks of it) and I have leaks now on both of my flanges! I've got a Corsa catback on this thing and its so freaking loud at idle (noise from under the hood) that I cant drive it on the street without getting pulled over. I specifically demanded something quiet when i talked to PTK. I want something that idles and drives as quiet as possible until I get on it. I didnt get that from them either.

I've got this awesome cold side I put together with a nice air/water intercooler and a really nice Bret Bauer Engine running the whole thing... I want to really let Bret know how much power this engine puts out, but the **** hot parts are holding it back.

In the spring I'll be calling realquick or building my own if I have the time.

 

Sometimes, building each one by hand on the engine stand is the best way... because if something goes wrong with a jig, you wont know it until the customer bolts in on.

I have had some sets of vbands leak on me, and I didnt warp them from welding. Sometimes its just a bad batch of Vbands where the flatness tolerancing wasnt good, and shop didnt check them. Sometimes, that is just how it goes.

Nobody should be have to modify a big $$ kit like you guys have had to.