Questioning the location of the turbo on the STS system. Would it not have a lot of lag being placed at the rear of the car?

 

no there isnt much lag at all, im sure luke will atest to that. the turbo housing is sized correctly for being in the back. the turbo is meant to be back there and wouldnt work properly if it were up front.

 

I don't know much about lag time but someone posted they could here how bad it lagged in the video. How long does it take to reach full boost. Also any news if they have something yet for longtube guys, or if it will work.

 

http://www.ststurbo.com/turbolag

I would still like to hear Luke's impressions of the lag though?

 

local forum info

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I notice no lag problem nor have the people i have given rides to. Boost will come on hard at 3000rpms or over.

 

hay luke, could i ask what octane you run with each psi you have had so far? i want to get a kit and would like to know if i can use pump gas or not

 

I use Mobil or Amoco pump gas 93 octane on 5psi, and the methanol/water injection systems is added when i have the high boost (7psi) switch on. The meth/water richens and cools depending on the ratio between the two to control detonation.

 

Luke-
Im building a 383 LT1 from scratch to be able to handle high boost but still run on pump gas. I am planning 7 psi daily and 15 at track and contemplating upgrading my rods even more and crank to breach the 15 mark. I was originally considering a PTK. Im wondering what compression I should shoot for in building this engine? What would be the ideal setup? Any advice?

 

luke is a local on a board in florida that i am on...i was going with this kit aswell for a while, then came across a very good deal on a vortech and just couldnt pass it up. i do like this kit, but find it a bit expensive for what it really is.

my impressions of the flaws with the kit.

1. all the exhaust piping to the turbo should be jet hot coated to retain as much heat as possible.

2. a BOV is a necessary piece of equipment they dont have...i dont car if its 3psi or 15psi on the TO4E they run, if you watch the video of luke's car, you will hear the compressor surge...from experience this is VERY BAD, i have lost a turbo due to my BOV being stuck shut.

3. Fueling...30# are almost mandatory as 5psi with this kit caused the injectors to go static!

4. Tuning...it really neads tuning to bring it to life, some sort of ignition would be best, such as the MSD 6AL with BTM to retard the timing per pound of boost.

5. Location - this has nothing to do with lag or anything, if you want less lag, use a turbo with a smaller exhaust A/R. but a matter of theft...the turbo is so easily accesible that i would reccommend welding loops to the housing and the exhaust piping and a dead bolt to give a theif more hassle.

also, i notice alot of people refer to a certain amount of psi they want to run...this is not correct...it all depends on what sort of turbo it is...a t25 is a very small turbo, and at 15psi may only flow 400cfm...while a TO4E w/ 60Trim (what sts uses) flows ~550 at 15psi...this turbo is perfect for low boost applications as it is at peak efficiency around .8bar. and also, if your running synthetic oil, i would suggest you stop...synthetic oil has been known to chew away at turbo oil seals and im sure no one want to spend 350 on a rebuild.

 

daily driven, definately go with a blower cam, remember valve overlap is bad in a FI application. think lift, and not duration. also, your going to be able to spool a bigger turbo with the extra airflow.

as far as a compression you should run, thats dependant on you, i am going to be running 9:1 just to be safe, with fully forged internals (very expensive, but they hold up)

im not sure as to what would be different with a 383, but i was going to do a 355 when i had put my plan together....fully ported and polished heads, LT4 ported intake, 2.02/1.6 valves, 1.6 RR's, pushrods, custom ground comp cam (thinkin .550"/.580" exhaust, 114+4 LSA) some good flowing long tubes, 1 3/4" primaries with a velocity spike, 255lph wally, 55# injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, arp head studs, and alot of tuning to keep my AF ~12.0:1 or richer (lotta cars break down hear as they are tuned for warmer weather, then winter comes, and lean out cause the temp drops big time)

 

I've never heard this before, in fact everyone I have talked to about turbo setups recommends synthetic oil to prevent coking. Not trying to doubt you, but could you provide some evidence of this, I.E. tests that have been run or anything?


I tend to agree that the price is a bit high for what is being provided with the kit though...

 

I like this kit, perfect for guys in California who can unbolt this setup and go smog it, put it back on and have your 700hp.

I'll be due for a rebuild here pretty soon, so I was going to go with a CM 383 with 8.5:1, mount an intercooler up front and put a sheild around the bottom of the turbo, almost will look like a muffler.

Have the heads fully ported and a matching camshaft, I'm looking for about 600-650rwhp. I don't know which turbo I should go with, but this will be a good baseline.

Also, make sure everything gets coated! Get the best coating you can on the headers and piping running down to the turbo. Also, I'm using a seperate oil tank and pump for the turbo, where my passenger seats used to be is an aluminum firewall which houses the battery, ignition, and other electronics, the oil tank will be fine in there as well as the pump.

Get the heat shield coated while your at it to reflect the radiant heat away from the fuel cell.

 

it could be a hit or miss sort of thing, but ive had a turbo shop down here in FL tell me to run dino oil instead of synth, and i notice alot of the guys down here with DSM's and Nissans tend to have some problems running synthetic...might just be the seals garrett uses or a local rebuild shop is using and thats whats causing it...i know since i lost one i flushed the whole oil system of synth and just ran straight 10W-30 dino oil

i dont want to knock on STS or anything, its a great thing they have given to us LT1 guys, but the price is very high for what it is...the kit could be built for 2k or less

~$150 - stock exhaust piping w/ muffler cut off and flanged for turbo
~$750 - any specific turbo you would want to use almost(usually cheaper though, and internally gated)
~$85 - 90-94 Eclipse/Laser/Talon Blow Off Valve and welded to system
~$80 - 2.5" piping from truck yard and getting flanged
~$450 - Oil system/pump
~$65 - Vortech TB elbow
~$300 - getting exhaust piping Jet Hot coated
~$100 - misc bolts/flanges/hosing/gaskets/clamps/brackets

 

Luke

I would recommend that you get your A/F down to 11.5 or so on the dyno. Your 12.2 or so A/F on the 5psi pull is likely closer to 12.7 on the street (what type of dyno?), which is far from safe.

If your injectors are going static now and pushing your system to the breaking point at 5psi, then 7psi could quickly blow some ringlands.