Thanks for the support! I cant wait to go racing soon!

I am taking it apart this weekend so fingers crossed all will work out! If not ill figure something out.

Steve

 

FIXED!!!!

Put the Stock Radiator and fans back in works perfect!!!

Steve

 

WOOT!! Congrats on the fix.
Now get out there and enjoy the car !!

 

Hell yeah! I want to see some pics of that beast on the road! Congrats

Ben

 

I will get some pics of it this weekend! Thank god this is over... Now to the dyno and then to the track!!!

 

Is anyone else having the same problem. I was going to get a large summit rad and stand it up, but after reading this I might not. I'm using the same water pump.
BTW Your old Blower set-up is working great. Thanks again.

 

I used an Entropy radiator from ebay with a Meziere pump and have had good luck, with the exception of my fans being a pain to fit. The car seems to run cooler, but I also replaced some very worn headers that lost most of their ceramic coating when I did the build.

 

By the way, where are those pics....?

 

You said it looked like the system was not primed with coolant media. I don't know if you moved your rad, but, my rad move located it lower and forward. This does not allow for (stock) self prime since the rad top is lower than the WP thermostat elevation. I use a be-cool stock size 4 core. I think it is larger than the Griffin. Pics...
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn244/mzgp5x/

I had to machine a fill coupler on the inlet hose to back-fill the system and prime the WP. I also had the header glow problem w/o a prime.

Also, I use Evans (evanscooling.com) coolant with my application, and, no thermostat with a 7psi cap. (97ss 383 - D1 MM6). Runs much cooler than the ethl-glycol-h2o mix. B.

 

Two items to comment on ...

1) A previous post quoted: "I spoke with Griffin and they said the CSR pump doesn’t flow enough coolant to support the capacity of the radiator.

They suggested going the meziere heavy-duty pump that it would correct the issue. they stated you opened the size of the system (2.5 gallons more) but are using the same pump, now you have a low volume, low pressure system which cant transfer the heat quick enough to keep the car cool."

That's backwards, a larger rad (+2.5 gal) means with the same water pump (CSR) flow rate the coolant has a longer residence time in the rad which means it's actually cooler when it gets pumped back into the engine and system pressure is controlled by the rad cap, not the pump rate.

2) Meziere HD (55gpm) pump.

I changed my old CSI pump (37gpm?) for the Mez 55gpm. Stock rad with both pumps. It runs very slightly cooler under all conditions. The water temp also responds to changes such as transiting from high speed and load to idling at rest noticeably quicker. I've never had a problem bleeding the system using the CSI but the Mez 55 was a little difficult. I eventually had the car's right front corner up on a jack stand and cycled the pump on and off, checking the rad and adding coolant when possible and using both bleed fittings. I think the higher Mez flow rate may have caused air to be entrained in the coolant and swept through the rad and back into the engine instead of collecting at the bleed points.