I finally got the car running, and now it wants to run hot (220) and the headers are glowing red.

Idle timing is 22* Af is 13.8-14.0 at idle.

The radiator is a griffin with Spal 2VA06-AP70/LL-37S FAN (11" Dual) http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102119

The fans are setup to run on full power

I just dont get it. I have bled and bled the system. nothing is there... It didnt run this hot with the stock fans and radiator. now I spent alot of money and it doesnt work...

Steve

 

All you changed was the radiator and fans- nothing else?

And does it get that hot really quick and you shut down or is that the temp that it will stay at?

First thing I would check is just pull your thermostat out and see what happens. If it still gets super hot then that wasn't the issue- its a simple trial to see if the thermostat is somehow to blame. Take your thermostat inside and put it in a pot of boiling water and make sure it is functioning correctly just be sure before you put it back in.

With the symptom of glowing headers however I think your problem lies elsewhere- but thats just me.

 

the whole top-end of the motor is new, and the bottom is refreshed.

I spoke to the engine builder and he said he would like to see 30-32* of timing at idle due to the cam size and overlap. he said you have to get that mixture burning sooner so it completes the combustion in the cylnder instead of the headers. by doing this the car should run about 15-20 degrees cooler.



Steve

 

which griffin rad do you have?

 

hope you get the bugs worked out! hey let me know when your heading to the track i want to show a couple buddies who have 10 second hondas what ltx is all about. plus i will be needing a chip burned soon lol...

 

As the other guy said, from a cold start, how long til you see the temp rise and does it make any difference if you're driving steady (cruising at say 45mph) or at a light?
Things I've experienced:
1. Bad radiator cap
2. Bad Thermostat
3. Burst hose (not likely for you)
4. Bad Waterpump(is yours electric or conventional?)
5. Bad connections on electric waterpump.
6. Plastic bag between Radiator and Condensor(how the hell that blew up from the street and into that restricted cavity amazes me)

Tell us more on what's going on. Sounds like an impressive build!

 

What water pump is in it? What thermostat? How fast to reach those temps?

 

Im going to do some more trouble shooting tomorrow when i have some time.

Water pump is a CSI pump
160 stat.
Griffin #25241


Steve

 

Are you certain your CSI is running and running all the time(not sporadically, intermittently?) I've had issues with the harness inside the pump(had to take the pump apart and solder the blade connectors together) on two different pumps(Meziere and a CSI unit). I've also had the 30amp relay melt at a terminal(Cheap Autozone unit).

If you can run the pump w/o the motor running, get it running then wiggle the wiring around and listen for the pump to stop/start. Also, feel the wires/relay with your bare hands. Do they get warm? (especially at the relay). If you can, while the WP is running, also wiggle the wires right at the pump body to see if it stops/starts. That would indicate the wiring connectors inside the pump.

Best of luck to you. I know these kinds of problems are hugely frustrating.

 

If your headers are glowing, combustion is probably still taking place on the exhaust stroke. 22° of idle timing is pretty retarded, literally, advance it lol.
I'm running 38° on my 9.1:1 compression turbo'd 383. It increase idle vacuum quailty. I increased my mileage by ~2mpg by increasing the idle timing and the main timing tables and blending the values at cruise to about 41°.

 

This may sound dumb and like a no brainer, but are the fans running? If so, are the pushing or pulling (probably depends if they are wired correctly). Sounds dumb, but reach in with your hand and verify the direction of airflow.

 

Update

I turned the timing up to 36 cured the glowing headers and gave the car more vaccum

Checked all the fans and bled the cooling system some more

The car still wants to run at 215. I can cruise it and it stays right around there, I think I'm going to put a 180-190 stat back into the car to try and slow the water down. Maybe that will help the radiator cool the water

Steve

 

Damn...

Well I changed the thermostat for a 180 instead of the 160 no change

I guess the Ol CSI pump is dying... its been on the car for years. but it doesnt have much use...

Here is whats going on the car starts comes up to temp pretty quick.

I took temp reading all over the place. The left side of the raditor near the cap reads 165, the thermostat housing reads 170, the right side of the pump reads 202- 205 and the right side of the radiator read 145.

All signs point to the thermostat... But its brand new and I tested the old one in water and it opend at 165... Im lost, I have never had a heat issue with this car, ever.

Thanks
Steve

 

What the crap dude?? We both have fresh motors, and both have coolant problems. My head studs are leaking coolant, so I'll start the sealant fix tomorrow. I wish I had some advice for you, but it sounds like you've trouble-shot it down to the pump, or some random blockage. Best of luck!!

Ben

 

I'd suspect water pump not flowing suffecient. Small possibility of an air pocket still left in there. Put a good stock pump on it and see what happens.