I was wondering what kind of oil your using in your cars... I always run either mobile 1 synthetic or royal purple.... Also what weight oil is everyone running,and why..thanks,

 

In my new blower motors I run mobile 1. Royal Purple is the best. I'm cheap. It always takes longer to come up to temp over using natural oil. But it idles quicker from the lack of friction.

I tried Mobile 1 in the 117,000 old heap (sig car, no blower); It made no difference at the track, except I have lots of leaks now (lots of detergent in the oil, I've learned). I think the old engine is just worn in to the point there is little friction left that slippery oil can help.

I always run the lightest oil (5-30 or so) for maximum hp (minimal pump hp loss). I'm p*ssed when anything I own shows more than 40 psi @ 2,000 rpm. Your just wasting power.

One of the fastes cars I know of leaves the line at 9,000 rpm with 5 pounds oil pressure (no blower). That's the extreme, but he ownes the engine shop.

 

Oil pressure=engine life.
If you that concerned about the 2 hp that the oil pump uses, your must not be running that much hp in the first place. If i dyno 627 hp at 5psi oil pressure and 624 with 60psi.....its not worth it by a long shot

In aviation, engines are submitted to high hp, in lower rpm setting. especially in tubo airplanes. Aviation engines(and anything in aviation has to go through extreme certification proccesses and guess what kind of oil they use? SAE 50.

I use Mobil 1 15w50 and see about 45psi durring 70mph cruise in 6th, and 65-70 psi anytime over 3500 rpm.

I also use this because thats what my engine builder recomended. I will not use anything thinner unless i move up north.

Remember 95%+ of the people on the board have daily drivers and look for reasonably longevity. not one run down the 1/4 and a rebuild

 

There are a few different combos on this board, early sbcs, a few big blocks... But I have never seen anone running an airplane engine in a fourth gen or any car for that matter. You got pictures?

For daily drivers; Every engine manual I've ever seen specifys 40 psi @ 2000 rpm for any sbc. And, nearly any new car manual states 5w30 for winter and 10w40 for summer. I've never seen a 50w recomendation in the factory manual. Most builders recommend 10 psi per 1000 rpm. I prefer to peak at about 40 psi, even spinning 6k rpm.

Excessive oil pressure is problematic; Pumping loss and oil control.

I already stated "he owns the engine shop"

 

No, i dont know of anyone running and aiplane engine in there car.
I also dont know of anyone here who would say they like to run the motors at 5psi so they can rebuild it after each race.
Pull your head out of your tail pipe and realize one thing, engines are engines. one of the most critical requirements is oil pressure. It does not matter weather its an SBC, BBC or and airplane engine. You obviously missed my blantent point and so maybe im preachin to the slow at learning.
Gm manuel says 10psi for every 1000prm....thats a little low for me at the low rpms, but still thats 60 at 6000rpm.

Anyway, no point agruing with you, i see this getting nowhere. I will run what i run and recomend what i run to others. end of story.

I trust my engine builder, and i run the viscosity he recomends.

 

i run cheapest 10-40 in my car i can find. I have 25 lbs at idle (800) and 45-50 at 2900. I wouldn't run anything heavier to increase pressure when it's just not needed. For MOST people on this board to run that heavyweight oil would be a waist of money, not to mention harder on the oil pump it's self.

Ultratech race engines does use straight SAE 50 in their 632 13-1 com. 1100 plus HP engines, so their is a use for that oil, when you reach that level.

BTW i just went 10.98 @ 124.

I visited your site, nice car with LOTS of money invested. I didn't see anytimes, just estimated "bragging rights" 3"s?

 

Again, he owns the engine shop (the correlation is frequent, cost free, rebuilds). That's an extreme example. Often several hp is critical to winning.

Actually, engines are not engines. My 6 hp lawn mower has a splash type oiling system, a slinger on the con rod. It depends on splash for oiling. There are many different systems out there.

The small block chevy oiling system has been studied for decades. Excessive oil pressure costs hp and makes the oil difficult to control. Please reference Smoky Uniks volumes on the sbc, David Vizzard's volumes on the sbc, and many many other notable authors. These are guys who have put windows in engine blocks trying to see the dynamic effects of oil in an operating engine. That's more than my engine builder ever did for me.

Why you keep insulting me personally? I don't like it, stick to facts.

 

No times, not a big drag racer, i like my 1/4s connected with turns
The setup is realtively new, and so im ganing trust in it before i really beat on it. Too many failures in the past, all being low oilpressure related.
I am a deal hunter and so i spent about 1/2 or less then you probally think i did. And the HP numbers under bragging rights are just to make the ricers who look at it happy, hence, nothing in my sig about them on this site.

Andy,
I made a statement that the most extensive tested engines, aviation engines, use a higher viscosity oil. I never said that i use these in cars, or that its the same for 2 stroke weedeater motors; yet you felt it was neccesary to try to make me look like a dumbazz buy turning that all around. Keep your facts straight.

 

I'm trying to shed some light on oil pressure required in a sbc. I've stuck to facts found by others, as I don't have the resources to study the topic in full on my own.

As always, I peper what I read with what I see at engine shops, drag strips, dyno cells, and even the roundy round race track. I've passed that small amount of knowledge on here.

You have insulted me from your very first post.

 

I have been running Mobil 1 or Castol syntec in mine since the blower. I have a noticebly lower oil psi than the 305(before the blower as well) but maybe that is from the difference in oil psi sending units. Or maybe it was from the oil pump itself.

I haven't had any failures from lack of oil pressure. Looking at the gage, it seems it is around 40 or so at 6k. Too much pressure can ruin bearings too.

 

Just brushed up on this with a little insight from Vizzard. Seems the synthetics are typically a lighter grade reducing drag and increasing power/milage. They are able to do this since the synthetics are far less prone to thermal/viscosity breakdown than traditional motor oils.

I've been running 40 psi for nearly 20 years and have had the motor apart so many times the bolts are going to wear out. I've even put the engine back together with the same bearings (probably not a good idea). This engine went 9.66 @145.7 in a 3450lb car.