Newbie advice on Procharger..
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
Hey Rich. You overlooked a heads/cam package. Right now I'm about 355 rwhp, and with 8# procharger with heads/cam Should put me around 600rwhp if not a little under. You don't think that'll get me into mid 10's? What else would I have to do?
Hey Rich. You overlooked a heads/cam package. Right now I'm about 355 rwhp, and with 8# procharger with heads/cam Should put me around 600rwhp if not a little under. You don't think that'll get me into mid 10's? What else would I have to do?
Rich Krause
I do plan on upgrading my tranny and rear when needed. I don't have the money right now, so I dont want to spend to upgrade driveline stuff just yet.
And Wild1: Were you talking to me? Why should I pack my bearings with synthetic? And I already upgraded my brakes, Hawk pads with powerslots all around.
And Wild1: Were you talking to me? Why should I pack my bearings with synthetic? And I already upgraded my brakes, Hawk pads with powerslots all around.
Yep, if you are going anywhere at speeds that near three digits, I'd recommend checking and re-packing the wheel bearings. I run at the Pony Express and Silver State Challenge on the Nevada Highways in speeds in excess of 180 MPH. We always pack the bearings with fresh lubricant.
It seems you want to go fast, you did the right thing by upgrading the brakes. If your bearings are worn, contaminated, or the grease is just old, you'll create a lot of heat and your wheels will have a tough time staying on the car.
Then again, unless your running at speeds over 110 MPH for over a minute plus, then probably no need to run synthetic bearing grease.
It seems you want to go fast, you did the right thing by upgrading the brakes. If your bearings are worn, contaminated, or the grease is just old, you'll create a lot of heat and your wheels will have a tough time staying on the car.
Then again, unless your running at speeds over 110 MPH for over a minute plus, then probably no need to run synthetic bearing grease.
Yeah, I've done between 160 and 175 a couple times. Not sure exactly how fast. But you think my wheels would fall off the car? I never heard of that happening. What else should I be concerned about? Last thing I want to do is wreck my car or worse--die. And should I pack the rear axles too? Thanks.
Because it is a solid axle, the rear diff fluid lubricates the rear bearings. Well, it couldn't hurt to check and repack. I'd recommend it because at 160 MPH, you'll generate some serious heat. How long it lasts depends on the condition of the bearings and wheel grease.
If it has seen water or contaminates have reached the bearing grease, I'd repack them to be safe. We use Baker/Neo Synthetic but you can use any reputable synthetic wheel grease.
Keep your diff fresh too. But yes, we do see catastrophic wheel failures due to bearings and tire limitations during the races in Nevada. I've seen guys survive 180 MPH wrecks in the desert, but their cars have full safety equipment (5-point harness, cage, helmets, neck braces, etc.). I wouldn't want to wipe out because I missed a tube of $9.99 grease.
If it has seen water or contaminates have reached the bearing grease, I'd repack them to be safe. We use Baker/Neo Synthetic but you can use any reputable synthetic wheel grease.
Keep your diff fresh too. But yes, we do see catastrophic wheel failures due to bearings and tire limitations during the races in Nevada. I've seen guys survive 180 MPH wrecks in the desert, but their cars have full safety equipment (5-point harness, cage, helmets, neck braces, etc.). I wouldn't want to wipe out because I missed a tube of $9.99 grease.
I've run my D-1SC 8# kit on a stock LS1 for 3,500 miles thus far. That engine seems to love the boost! The trick for keeping it together appears to be moderation (ie, not too much boost or beating), and a good TUNE! If you haven't got a dyno and something like LS1Edit, I would indeed be scared...
Mike M
Mike M
so if I floored it a lot on the street, and only went to the track like twice a year, you think it would hold up pretty well, and not blow? And anyone know much some forged pistons and pushrods cost? Thanks.
Hey I just dropped you an email, but I have some more advice I didn't include. Whatever you do do NOT invest in LS1 edit if you are going to do this. 95% of kits come with custom tuning and anyone that does the tuning will lock your PCM and the edit will be useless, believe me I know. In Oct we bought LS1 edit and in December decided to go blown, now our edit is useless and that's A LOT of useless money. Any other questions let me know.
Also I just noticed you are from OK, I'm in KS...A lot of my family is in Enid.
Also I just noticed you are from OK, I'm in KS...A lot of my family is in Enid.
Last edited by HRTBRKR; May 19, 2003 at 11:15 PM.
I envy you Hrtbrkr. I am in Tulsa. I just moved here from Boston, MA. So I don't really know the area. I've heard of Enid though, but I think it is closer to OKC than here. Your car looks just like what I want mine to be. I'm following your mods. How much did those pistons cost you, and are you still on the stock crankshaft? If you don't mind, I'd like to keep in touch. I am sure I'll have a million questions, and if you come to Tulsa at all, e-mail me and I'll give you my cell #. we should hook up some time. The track here is amazingly good compared to the track at New England Dragway in NH. Talk to ya later, man.
I have stock crank and rods, the pistons I got off of Thunderracing.com, I can't really remember what we paid, but since we spent about 8k with them they cut us a nice deal. When you do two cars at once it's pricey. Our future kids won't get to go to college but our cars will be fast for awhile. My husbands turbo car should stay up with mine, but we'll see.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WobblySausage
LT1 Based Engine Tech
6
Oct 7, 2015 02:44 PM
WobblySausage
Drivetrain
4
Oct 7, 2015 10:09 AM



