Ok, some of you might have read the thread I had going a couple weeks ago, and last summer about a sticky throttle. Well after almost completely redoing the ATI setup on the car, and fixing the motor after it blew up last year I think I finally found out whats going on.

Little bit o history.
Last summer, under easy shifting moderate to high rpms the throttle would stick when the clutch was pressed to shift. Never did it before the blower install along with that I had problems with it surging at idle. So the MAF was relocated to the blown side....no more surging but still had a sticky throttle. I did get it to stick 2 times in the garage and when it did the blades were not closing all the way. I had multiple return springs on it and it still did it. Only way it wouldn't, was if you were to snap the throttle shut when shifting.

So this year I 'fixed' the rest of the blower system after the motor was rebuilt. A solid intake tube was installed, and most of the rubber hoses and such around the TB were thrown away for solid piping. At this point I vented the ATI bypass valve to open air...thus making it a BOV. With it open it was much easier to hear what it was doing and when it was doing it. Now since I have the dual intercoolers the bov is only mounted on the pipe going to the passenger side intercooler, just how ATI sent it. I took a couple of my friends for a ride that have big turbo cars and they all said the same thing. Its not working fast enough. It isn't opening and closing as fast as it should and it isn't responding to the changes in vac. like it should. Low and behold I was driving it home that night, went to shift and it stuck, and when it did by god the bov stayed shut, not venting any pressure and keeping the throttle open. It did find a way to vent itself by blowing a intercooler elbow off though. No harm done.

So now, my question is this. I know I can get a bigger and better BOV from HKS, or one of those places. But since I don't want to spent the time right now going to a front mount, if I only put in one BOV would this take care of the pressure or since it is running thru 2 seperate pipes would there still be some pressure on one side? I know in a static system there shouldn't be but since it is dynamic I tend to think that there would be some pressure diverted as such to the other side. So what about running 2 BOVs, one on each pipe with one signal line so that they open at the same time?

Thoughts? Ideas?

I've done everything else and changed pretty much everything this has to be the only thing left.

Stupid ATI kits, I should have just bought a Vortec or just a ATI head unit and made the rest of it myself.

 

I have sent you a pic on where I have my ATI Race Bypass valve mounted. In order to mount it like this I welded the hole on the intercooler pipe (pipe where stock ATI bypass valve is tied into) shut. IMO there is no need for 2 race bypass valves. One will do the job.

 

Hey Claude

Did you know that there is a adjustment screw on the top of the ATI surge valve?

It may be that you have not adjusted it to vent the maximum air.

Look at the surge valve from the 'exit'. Hold the vacuum operated lever and move the lever up and down. The butterfly blade should go from closed (vertical) to ALMOST horizintal. Do NOT adjust that valve TOO much as it will go over top dead centre and the valve will stay CLOSED and therefore not work (ask me how I know).

Let me know if that helps.

I have the HKS BOV and it is located at the downpipe of the upper intercooler Y-PIPE. I don't think you need 2 BOV's

 

I run a Turbonetics Godzilla BOV right where the ATI surge valve was right before the pass side intercooler. Mine works great, I have had no problems.