Wet is easiest to tune, most chance of N2O and fuel going to the ssame place.

I use two nozzles, one at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 about 3-4 inches upstream from the TB threaded into the intake elbow.

Used mostly at the track, not enough traction to use on the street (wheelspin at 100mph in 3rd gear when N2O comes on). Using an MSD window switch - on at 4,000, off at 6,900 (shift at 6,800, redline at 7,000). I use unleaded race gas at the track.

The amount of N2O to use depends on how much stress you think your motor can handle and how much traction you have. But I have experiemented with as little as a 50hp shot and that makes a big difference getting my pig of a car off the line. Decreases 60ft times by over 0.2 sec with an over .3 second reduction in ET.

Rich

 

Here's a dyno run with a 100hp shot, you can see it come in at ~5,600rpm.

 

Do you turn the engine up to 7000 RPM on a regular basis?

 

I'm running a Vortech 14# boost, no intercooler, Snow methanol
injection mixed with Nitromethane and windshield washer fluid and
a NOS/Nx nozzel kit with a high-pressure(50psi)stand-alone fuel
system. I have a window switch, BTM, time-delay and boost switch to
control these systems and when they all ignite...wow.

Emil:93Z,383

 

Shift point is 6,6-800.

Rich

 

They sure do. I sent Chad the video and the dyno sheets. He wants to post them on his site. How do you run it in FF by the way? My FF isn't showing available to click on? Hummmm...

Ken R.

 

Ken, let the vid play through, than look to see if you can click on it. I just did it that way and it worked for me. Rick