Opti with MSD cap and rotor (which I think solve 90+% of the opti design problems), Crane HI6TR, MSD coil. 700 rwhp through an A3 at 17 psi boost and no problems.

I wetted a stock optical pickup and shattered 2 rotors before switching to the MSD cap and rotor. It's sealed much better and has a stout rotor.

I think that most problems with the opti are moisture on the pickup, shattered rotor from cheesy plastic rivets, or weak old stuff (coil or wires). The MSD cap and rotor solve the first 2 and maintaining your stuff solves the last.

Mike

 

Delteq

 

I don't think you'll run into any problems man. It's been done before as people are showing with good results. Not buying the LTCC alone will help you save some pennies and hopefully will = your car on the road earlier.

 

After getting my taxes back and running some numbers.........I'm thinking I should be done with the car by mid summer.

 

So is the "high voltage destroys the opti" theory just a myth? I am amazed that so many high hp set ups use the stock opti with an ignition box, but I also notice that many are race cars only. What about reliability of the opti on daily drivers that log a lot more miles? Also, it seems that multiple coils would definitely be better than single coil setups, but it is hard to argue with the proven results provided in the posts above. Comments?

 

It will decrease Opti life.

Rich

 

GM Opti dist w/ MSD 6A and MSD 8202 coil. Also, variable manual adj. timing box. Had 2 Opti rotors fail from rivet melting. Modified the plastic rivet with an alum rivet on the third. So far no failures with 6800 red_line. (97ss 383 - D1).

 

My setup is the stock GM opti with a MSD cap n rotor, Crane Hi-6 TR with LX-92 coil. I'm using Accel wires and NGK racing plugs gapped at .035 and it fires through 15# of boost with a bunch of 50/50 meth and water spraying in there. The car is fairly low mileage.