I will update the progress on my engine later, but the ****BIRD "LT1/LS1" performance shop that is trying to fix my engine found the coolant leak. Over half of the head studs are leaking coolant into the engine. Here is the funny from the so called LT1/LS1 experts (according to their business cards), they do not know what sealant to use on head studs, they have never worked on an engine with studs before..WTF!! Why in the hell did they say they could work on my car. Anyway, I witnessed the coolant coing from the studs and just want my car back together!!

On the other hand, after about 20 mins of 14-16psi of pressure applied to the radiator, the oil pan gathered approximately 1 quart of fluid. Now under normal operating conditions, I dont think the Lt1 produces that much of pressure, so there shouldn't be that much coolant in the oil. I drove the car about 300 miles like this, do you think the bearings are hurt?

 

I could be wrong. But why would a head 'stud' require different sealer than a 'bolt'?? Torque load is better with studs but thats it! You are suppose to use thread sealer regardsless of fastener type.

I still don't see how water can be POURING OUT of your engine because of some 'ARP' thread sealer not being used.

Something's fishy........Let others reply first though.

Just want to add that this is the SHOPS issue regardless of root cause. Make sure you pursue it as such.

-Scott.

 

I always use the Ultra-Copper RTV on my studs and have never had a leak. Just make sure that you torque the head right after application, and I let it sit a day before running it. Most of the holes on the block penetrate thru to the coolant jackets and need sealing.

Bill

 

I had an LS7 (454 square port) crate engine that I took apart as soon as I got it out of the crate. I put the ARP head studs on it with sealant. Once it was back together and I drove it, I found it was doing like yours. I could pull off the valve covers and see coolant teardrops easing out under the nuts on the studs (Man, that statement looks nasty when typed,... anyway) I took it to a pro shop and had them pull it down and seal the studs. I dropped by and saw them reinstalling the studs and sealing them. After driving it home, I found it was leaking just as bad as before. Frustrated, I double nutted the studs, pulled them out and replaced them with ARP bolts with sealant. Never had another single issue with them leaking.

 

My ARP studs leaked too.
I added a tube of Aluma-seal to the radiator, sealed um right up.
That was 4 years ago, if I change the coolant I'll add another tube to it.

---Bill.

 

My engine builder used locktite on my studs and I have ZERO leaks or seeps of any kind. Motor has seen 15psi of boost on a O-ringed block and copper gaskets for about a year. I paid $80 for his installation and would not have anyone else touch my motor. The guy knows his ****. All you need is a competent mechanic and a little $$ to get head studs installed properly.

pull everything out and find someone who knows what they are doing check out the motor. you will save a ton of money in the long run.

 

#2 sealant!!!! I don't know how many times I have said this, use this stuff on the head studs, you can get it at the local parts store. DO NOT USE THE ARP SEALANT, IT SUCKS.

 

>I used ARP thread sealant and have had absolutely no problems. My engine has been together for about 3 years now.

 

It works for some, but I've seen too many guys pull it back apart because it didn't work OR have to use radiator sealer(or block sealer).

 

ARP sealant with no issues.

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=613213

 

The trick to getting those bolts/studs to seal is they have to be bone dry and clean. If they're new, clean 'em off with brake clean, wipe 'em off with a lint-free rag, then brake clean them again, and let them air dry. This will insure that there is no oil on the bolt/stud so the sealer will adhere to it. Same goes for the bolt holes. Chase 'em with a good tap/thread chaser, then clean them out with brake clean, then blow them out with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air, let 'em air dry. Then brake clean the holes a second time.

Yes, this seems like it's overkill. But I've always prepped bolt holes, bolts and studs like this, and never had a problem. The cleaner they are, the more likely that they will seal.

I tend to stick with Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer. It cleans out of the threads with brake cleaner if you need to disassemble. I've used the ARP sealer, too. It works but requires the same level of prep. All of the sealers need to be worked into the threads of the fastener. Don't just dab some on and call it a day, work it into the threads with your finger and make sure that it's really sticking. I like to fill the threads so that they're level, with a little of the excess on the first few threads.

Don't use RTV. It is damn near impossible to get out of the threads in the block, and will cause headaches if you need to disassemble and reassemble anything in the car.

You can also use red loctite on head studs, but it requires a different level of prep. You'll need a series of spacers. We used to use 1/2" copper water pipe in the shop I worked in. You need to clean everything as above, then use a liberal amount of red loctite on the threads of the studs. Thread the stud in finger tight. Wipe the excess red loctite off the deck of the block with a lint-free rag and acetone. Slide the correct-length spacer over the stud, pop on a washer, then attach the nut. Tighten it to 10 ft-lbs. Repeat for all the studs. Then let it alone for 24 hours. Give the loctite a full 24 hours to cure before you install the heads. The studs are, for all intents and purposes, now a part of the block. If you need to remove the studs, you'll need to heat them with a propane torch to melt the loctite. But they will not move or leak. The spacer and the pre-load is necessary to that the threads of the stud are in metal-to-metal contact with the threads in the block, so that when the studs are torqued down, the block takes the load and not the loctite.

I would not do this on a car that would require the studs to be removed for pulling the heads, as you wouldn't be able to pull the studs without removing the heads. This would put you in the situation of removing the motor to pull the heads.

 

Learn something new everyday. Good info!

Is there actually different sealing requirements for studs compared to bolts or is this basic prep regardless?


-Scott.

 

It seems to be much more critical to do the prep work on the Studs for some reason. The bolts, I've used and reused with the teflon paste and never had an issue on 5 different motors. The ARP studs, I tried twice, the shop tried once and the kept seeping coolant until I went to the traditional ARP Head Bolts.

 

Dave,

That was my take on the thread as well.

It seems that there appears to be more sealing issues with a head stud rather than a bolt. It would be interseting to take an Advanced look at this to show one way or the other.