griffin radiator setup for lt1
griffin radiator setup for lt1
hi any help with this would be nice can any one tell me if i order the gri-1-25241-x do i have to change the inlet outlet on that when i order to match an lt1 or is it already fine it says inlet on drivers side and out on pass isnt the lt1 oppiset thanks
That radiator has the proper inlet and outlet locations, but it does not have provisions for a trans cooler, oil cooler, or the steam vent for the cylinder heads. Also be aware that mounting it will require modifying the front subframe, and you will probably need to get new radiator hoses (as the inlet and outlet on the radiator are not 1 5/16" like stock the stock radiator).
This radiator has been used before by many members here (with modifications to their cars) - but swapping to a much larger radiator may not be what you want to do. Last I knew, you were looking to make a rear-mount turbo setup on a stock bottom end.
I'd recommend doing a search on "25241" and reading the results.
This radiator has been used before by many members here (with modifications to their cars) - but swapping to a much larger radiator may not be what you want to do. Last I knew, you were looking to make a rear-mount turbo setup on a stock bottom end.
I'd recommend doing a search on "25241" and reading the results.
I have a Be-Cool rad. Larger than the Griffin Mod. I had to mod the front and lower rad supports. It worked well for me on a 97ss 383 D1 MM6. I had to move the rad for an external crank drived Vac crank-case pump. I like the additional space up-front. I fabbed everything for maximum engine removal clearance.
I used the stock rad hose and extended them with a scrap piece of hose (from NAPA) and my own (simple alum connectors on the enter/ exit rad hose) connectors. Since the rad is lower (up-front), it was necessary to provide a back-fill plug port on the suction line to remove air and prime the pump.
Hope this helps.
B.
Pics...
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/n...e%204th%20gen/
I used the stock rad hose and extended them with a scrap piece of hose (from NAPA) and my own (simple alum connectors on the enter/ exit rad hose) connectors. Since the rad is lower (up-front), it was necessary to provide a back-fill plug port on the suction line to remove air and prime the pump.
Hope this helps.
B.
Pics...
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/n...e%204th%20gen/
hey Geoff i actually went a diffrent route ended up grabbing a realquick cast manifold front mount ripped the motor out and had the bottom end done got the motor back in ended up moving the stock rad vertical and really didnt keep cool and kept air in system as well then i hit a speed bump thought had enough clearence at a car show and stock rad goes boom coolant every wher so yea just need to put the griffin in already modified the rad supports with 1x1 tubular steel wrked perfect just needed some advice on the inlet and out let be cause my buddy with a vette said they might be diffrent so i figuered id ask and u solved the answer thanks so i can order this rad and ill have the steam line tapped in the griffin at a rad shop wen i get it and the oil cooler line im getting rid of thanks for ur knollag , joe
Appears a few people have a problem with the OP's writing style. If you can't understnd a post, or don't like the style, simply ignore it. It's not your job to critique the style. When people find their posts are not getting responses, they will understand that they are hurting themselves by not using accepted writing styles.
Fans were my biggest issue..

Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



