Well after 2 years of downtime I'm finally getting close to having the motor back in the car. Yesterday I got the motor fully assembled and all the parts back on it minus intake. It is ready to go back in the car. The events that lead to all this:

Motor that I rebuilt for the 2nd time wouldn't hold oil Pressure, so I finally took it to someone that does this for a living. When he measured my old bearing clearances they were in excess of .004" which was a combination of the crank being turned down to low and the line bore to large. The engine builder found all kinds of things wrong with the machine work I had done at another shop. The crankshaft was cracked bad on the 3 inside main journals (crank was turned because of a bearing failure years ago) so I had to get a new crank. I decided to go stroker and went 383 and went with the JE -31cc piston for this combo and stayed 5.700 rod. Motor was finished a year ago last October and due to my new (at the time) job I never got a chance to put it in. Well I resigned a week ago and I now have some time in my life I went with a new K member from BMR with their Manual Rack kit, and also got Madmans Alternator kit. I didn't like the idea of having to weld in the tie rod ends with spherical rod ends that came with the BMR kit, so I picked up a Smith Brothers Tie Rod End kit that is for 4th gen Manual rack conversions.http://www.smithperformance.com/cata...20and%20Instal Last weekend I got that all in and all the brake lines reran. Yesterday I got the new Moroso 7Qt Oil Pan in as well as the windage tray. I am also running a new Noisy Gear Drive Timing gear setup. I previously ran a Pete Jackson set but it was so quiet I could barely hear it (I wanted the cool noise). Valvetrain was also reinstalled and valve lash set. All that is left to do is drop it in and hook up the Intake. I will have to redo the Passenger side down pipe as it will now hit the alternator where it currently resides. I have a new 3" u-bend to accomplish this. Hope to have the motor in the car by next weekend. I am also looking hard at a set of Patriot block hugger headers that are really short. I'd love to place the turbo's right over the valve covers. When I get the motor back in the car I will be doing some serious measuring. They are 6" from the top of the header flange to the bottom of the collector flange. This just clears the top of the stock valve cover. But I will most likely just put the thing back together so I can run the car for a while. It's been to long!! Thanks for listening, I got a little long winded

 

Awesome man.....Hope all goes well.

I've been out of it for a long time too.
We moved from NJ to FL almost 4 years ago and I pulled the belt off to avoid breaking parts. Started neglecting the car cuz I did not have a place to work on it we lived in an apartment complex. 2 years ago we bought a house in FL and the car was on the back burner again. I placed it for sale a few weeks ago but after cleaning it and doing a few other things to it to make it more driveable, I started getting that itch/bug again. I finally started to fix some issues and am slowly getting back into the swing of things. I am hoping that I have the patients to take it slow and do things the smart way as to avoid any extra unnecessary expense.

Good Luck!

 

congrats. I am using TPI headers that are about the same size and have them flipped vertically. It was easier to fab a kit this way, and, allows AWESOME plug access from the bottom (10 minutes to change all 8 plugs lol)

 

I was following your buildup back then. I was wondering what happened to you. Glad to see you back at it.

 

The Motor is back in the car I had to remove my steering shaft to do some modifications to it for the manual rack. It was pretty rusty and wasn't easy to get off, and I broke the Oil Pressure Sender, whoops! I'll see if I can get some pics. This site won't support downloading pics from individual PC's huh, has to be off a website?

Bill