Forced Induction and the LT-1

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Mar 23, 2009 | 09:06 PM

#31

rskrause

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Joined: Dec 1969

Posts: 10,745

From: Buffalo, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveLT1

Hello all,

I just saw the thread and had to post....

I have a 1995 pontiac formula 355 ci with a ati p600b.

I just wanted to thank all of the members on the forum.

Rskrause has been a huge help so thank you...

My car has taken me years to get it slowly to where it is now. A link below to youtube....

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...pig+p600b&aq=f

The person posting is PAC1085, if the link doesn't work search The Pig P600b on youtube...

I may eventually want to get some info on what gains id get with a better set of heads. The castings are stock..other than the upgraded parts....

I have a dyno sheet if anyone is curious about what it put down.....I may need to update the sig..in that the exhaust is now a pacesetter set of headers 1 3/4 primaries no cats...to a slp loudmouth exhaust.

Again, thanks for all the help with my car...woudn't of gotten anywhere near this on my own heh

Steve

Hey Steve: YW!

Rich

Jun 5, 2009 | 06:08 PM

#32

Hal Fisher

Registered User

Joined: Jun 2002

Posts: 798

From: San Jose, CA

What is meant by Texas94z saying that good short block setup should run about $1500? what parts other than pistons and a little milling is included in that estimate?

Hal

Jun 6, 2009 | 01:36 AM

#33

rskrause

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Joined: Dec 1969

Posts: 10,745

From: Buffalo, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hal Fisher

What is meant by Texas94z saying that good short block setup should run about $1500? what parts other than pistons and a little milling is included in that estimate?

Hal

I believe that the reference to using a stock crank and rods is a good idea - if they are in good shape and you plan a mild build. Have the crank and rods Magnafluxed to be sure there are no cracks developing and the journals polished. I would get something better than a $400 set of pistons though unless the build is going to be VERY mild. With the stock crank and rods and a decent piston you certainly should be able to have a very decent short block for $1,500 including machine work. $1,000 in parts and ~500 for labor. The labor may be a little on the low side. By "parts" I mean the pistons, gaskets, rings. "Labor" would be cleaning, boring and honing the block, fitting the rings and bearings, inspecting the rods and crank with polishing the journals, and so on.

Rich

Last edited by rskrause; Jun 6, 2009 at 01:39 AM.

Jun 7, 2009 | 07:40 AM

#34

Hal Fisher

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Joined: Jun 2002

Posts: 798

From: San Jose, CA

Rich, how much boost would a mild short block build up like that then be able to handle?

Hal

Jun 7, 2009 | 09:48 AM

#35

rskrause

Moderator

Joined: Dec 1969

Posts: 10,745

From: Buffalo, New York

10-12psi ought to be no problem.

Rich

Aug 9, 2010 | 10:52 AM

#36

69gto96z

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 2,146

From: Denton/Rockwall, TX

Stock crank, splayed 4 bolt mains, forged H-beam rods, and a nice set of Diamond pistons. Should this be good for 12-15 psi and 600-650 HP at max boost? Heads will most likely be ported trickflows, and I will be aiming for a CR of around 9:1. I am wanting to build a motor that will last a long time, will not be a daily driver, but will see boost often when it is driven. Should I shoot for a forged crank also, or stick with the stock crank?

Edit: The motor will be a 355.

Aug 9, 2010 | 04:52 PM

#37

DirtyDaveW

Registered User

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 1,791

From: Upstate New York,USA

If you can swing it, I think the piece of mind factor would be greatly enhanced with the follow thru of a forged crank. You'll have all that expensive hardware slinging around on your 'weakest link'. Your setup is what I have and it's a blast to drive. Runs on everyday 93 octane, no water/meth injection needed. As tame as a honda civic in traffic and an assassin on the freeways/track.

Aug 10, 2010 | 12:20 PM

#38

69gto96z

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 2,146

From: Denton/Rockwall, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyDaveW

Appreciate it, and I think you are right. It will be good for the piece of mind. What brand crank are you running? When this build happens, the extra money for the crank won't be an issue hopefully. Assuming I can get a good job out of college with the degree I am getting.

Edit: Just clicked on your link and ran across this, "Crankshaft: Balanced Forged SCAT. 3.45" stroke." Appreciate it, oyur site with the parts list is perfect! What kind of track times are you turning with this set-up? Also, how is the turbo lag? Does it spool up rather quickly?

Last edited by 69gto96z; Aug 10, 2010 at 12:22 PM.

Aug 10, 2010 | 06:08 PM

#39

DirtyDaveW

Registered User

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 1,791

From: Upstate New York,USA

Thanks! Well, I've had all kinds of things(Mostly job related. Contracts in Houston, Alaska and UpstateNY) that kept me from the track to get a good baseline with the 6-speed. I took it out Sept,2009 with the intent to get that baseline but only got to make a half hearted pass. When I went back to the staging area, the clutch went out and I haven't been back. I HOPE to get to the track with the TH350 setup this weekend or the next. It went 108mph in the eighth mile with the 6 speed on that halfhearted run. The motor felt 'funny' after the 1/8th mark so I let off a bit for the rest of the quarter.

UPDATE: I went back to the track a few weeks ago but had a cracked hotside(loss of boost and delay of boost effect) and turned a 129mph quarter mile.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69gto96z

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; Jul 11, 2012 at 03:13 PM.

Oct 23, 2010 | 01:28 PM

#40

cino

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 112

What about external upgrades on the engine as the boost rises? I mean PCV system, passenger side valve cover vent pipe, vacuum lines, blowby control, excessive crankcase pressure, oil catch can...
Little is needed at 5-6 psi, but at 8 psi? 12 psi? 15 psi? Beyond?
I understand 5-6 psi system is not worth it, it is better off staying with head/cam upgrade for less. So what is the most practical boost level for money spent reliability/power wise before it gets prohibitely expensive?

Oct 23, 2010 | 01:39 PM

#41

DirtyDaveW

Registered User

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 1,791

From: Upstate New York,USA

With the right tune, you can get away with murder on a stock motor.
Case in point...
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...tercooler.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by cino

Oct 25, 2010 | 11:36 AM

#42

cino

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 112

That doesn't really answer my questions... I wanted to know what needs to be addressed on a supercharged LT1 in daily driver to be reliable other than the engine internals at different boost levels...(vacuum hoses, pcv, breather, many more things I don't know of yet...) All to figure the most practical limit in power vs money invested and reliability. I want something trouble free, without leaks, blowby, stalling and I want to be sure I'll get where I want to go with the car without worries of a breakdown...

Dec 7, 2010 | 08:35 PM

#43

TT350

Registered User

Joined: Oct 2010

Posts: 132

From: Picayune MS

Re: Forced Induction and the LT-1

How much boost will the stock ignition system burn with a .025-.028 plug gap before a CD ignition box is required?

Dec 8, 2010 | 02:38 AM

#44

MikeGyver

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 1,497

From: Orem, UT

Re: Forced Induction and the LT-1

Quote:

Originally Posted by TT350

How much boost will the stock ignition system burn with a .025-.028 plug gap before a CD ignition box is required?

On my car, about 6psi.

Dec 8, 2010 | 05:54 AM

#45

DirtyDaveW

Registered User

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 1,791

From: Upstate New York,USA

Re: Forced Induction and the LT-1

I have the stock ignition on my 96 and it works fine all the way to 6,500 RPM on my 14 psi setup. I use Autolite racing plugs gapped at .032 in my Canfield heads.

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