Hello fellow LT1-ers. I just picked up a 1995 z28 6sp on monday. This afternoon I yanked the engine and stripped it. The block is sitting at the machine shop. Im looking to build a wicked 383. Let me get to the point of this post. Im looking to get roughly 500+hp to the rear wheels (super charged) if not 600. I've been doing a lot of research and still uncertain what parts work together best. Anyone willing to give a helping hand...What im looking for is what componets your using...ie. crank, rod lengh(5.7?) which cam, injector size, heads, headers, fuel pumps ect ect ect... basically whats your entire layout.. and a tune for it.
I hope this isnt asking for too much. I'd just like to take the guess work out of it and save a few bucks
Nick

 

What is your budget? I would recommend the following parts:

Heads: There are alot of different options out there and I would recommend doing some research on it.


Pistons: JE, Diamond, SRP or Ross
Crank: Cola, Lunati or Callies
Rods: Oliver, Eagle or Lunati
Cam: Depends on how high you want to spin your motor.

Blower: Vortech S-trim or ATI D1SC

Fuel System: Walbro 255lph intank and inline pump (check out Racetronix's kit)
Injectors: either 42 lb injectors or 55 lb High impedance injectors (Depends on your setup)

Headers: Hooker longtube headers.

Rearend: 12bolt or 9-in

Tuning: I would recommend someone local dynotune your car or get LT1 edit and tune your car yourself.

Scan Tool: Scanmaster to monitor your car while your are driving it.

Ignition: MSD 6BTM to pull timing if your car encounters knock.

This should get you started for now.

 

IDOXLR8, Thanks for the reply! I don't really have a budget..but would like to keep it under 15k for the engine buildup. I guess what im looking for is a known ,dyno proven setup. Im not concerned about the chassis mods yet- rear, cage,sub frames, ect. Thats a pretty much a no brainer The internals is whats got me puzzled (cam heads,intake,injectors, stock pcm?) I would like to make all my hp at around 6000-6500rpms
Thanks for your time
Nick
5.7 rods or 6?

 

You can check out what worked, and didn't work, for me by browsing through the para.noid website in the sig.

 

More is made of rod length than necessary. But go for a 5.7" or 5.85" rod. Do a search for the rationale.

With that budget, get AFR 195cc "LT4" heads "bare' and have some porting done to improve flow, with an emphasis on the exhaust side. Use the GM LT4 intake. Get large chambers to allow low compression without excessive piston dish. Aim for a CR of ~8.5:1.

Use JE "Extreme Duty Inverted Dome" pistons. Have the crowns coated with heat rejecting ceramic coating by Swain Technologies. Get the "Hardened Nitrous Series" rings from JE to go with the pistons.

Many choices for rods and crank. I like Callies cranks and Lunati Pro Mod rods. If you want to go really high end, consider Carillo or Oliver "billet" rods.

Get the Acceleronic Low-Z box to allow you to run low impedance injectors with the stock PCM. Utilize a good dynotuner to dial it in. Get 70-80lb injectors.

Cam: CC lobes #3192/3196 (224/236) on a 116LSA and a 112ICL. Use CC #987 springs. Get a set of good roller rockers (1.5 with this cam) and HD pushrods. Stock lifters are fine.

Fuel system: Racetronix dual in-tank setup.

Use a Vortech T-trim or Procharger D1. You will see 600+rwhp. No problem, just bring plenty money. After you break your transmission and/or rear end come back and I will spend some more of your money .

Rich Krause

 

Not joking, but beware of LJ's website. You may get hooked like me when I first saw it 3 years ago.


To add to the good information others have given for building 600rwhp cars, I would recommend having a good reputed engine builder built you an engine (at least the short block) for the system you want. Definitely get the T-trim if you are going for the Vortech since it is the same price as the S-trim, which I am currently maxing out at 600rwhp.


Good luck

 

10secz, thanks for pointing me to your site... lots of great information. thanks

rskrause, Thanks for your pointers. I've been finding myself reading a lot of your posts. thanks for the knowledge

I guess what it all comes down too i really need to learn how to edit the PCM. Thats the reason I got interested in building this car and not a rice burner. The *** cars are very tight lipped when it comes down to the PCM. Im curently driving a 03 acura tl type s and i can't do much to it. The only real mod is headers. I don't consider a CAI (cold air intake) a mod For being a 3.2 v6 its rated at 260hp.
getting back on topic, what software do you guys run lt1 edit? Should i stick with the stock pcm or go aftermarket. Is there info out there on how to make a data cable(pcm to pc) I was born with a soldering iron in my hand Also the cheapest place to buy software for tuning.

The other night i came across a site that was talking about a wide band 02 sensor. I lost the site and cant seem to find it I was reading about using a honda civic o2 sensor and the site mentioned thepartsbin.com for the 02. My supplier supplys all the parts to that site. Anyone happen to have the link or the honda part # of the o2...
thanks again guys
Nick
nickh75 on AIM

 

Glad to help. lot of what I have learned is from others, some I figured out for myself. So I want to pay back those who have helped me by helping out others.

Andrew Mattei makes cables for interfacing with the diagnostic port. But kudos to him for posting instructions for those who want to DIY. Check out his site at http://www.akmcables.com/

I use LT1_Edit, but it's more expensive than Tuner Cat. Both have their pros and cons.

For a 600hp setup like you are planning, I'd stick with a stock PCM and the Accelronics box. Cheaper and you avoid the sometimes horrendous mess you can get into deriving a tune for other than WOT. There's always at least one car in the shop with an aftermaket unit that was installed by the owner or another shop. Many of these don't even run, or run like absolute crap. Often takes 20 or more hours to set thing straight (at $72/h for labor and $125/h for dyno time). You can tune a setup like I'm advising in a couple of hours if all goes well.

I don't see the need for a WB on the car, I prefer dynotuning with the addtional information obtained from and EGT probe, MAT sensor, boost, and fuel pressure gauges.

There is softare available to tune the factory PCM in most Hondas. It's called "Hondata". I have looked at it. It's expensive and far from user friendly though. It can be made to work however. I think it's in the $750 range, last I looked. For a Japanese car, I'd say you really need to ge with an aftermarket ECM for anything very radical. The Electromotive TEC3 is my favorite for this purpose. I haven't seen one on an LT1 yet.

I like your goal of 600rwhp. That's the level where the car will be "scary fast" Able to trounce any production car and most everything else. Your top end will allow you to play with big sportbikes if you so choose, though they will have you at low speeds due to their superior power:weight ratio.

Rich Krause

 

I'm almost finished building a 383, Here's some of the parts I'm using. I think everybody differs a little on this stuff because everyone thinks a little different about how to get the most HP for the $.
Splayed 4 Bolt Mains. Bal. & Blue. motor, 5 angle valve grind on 2.02 intake. & 1.625 exhaust Enconel , Major Port & Polish on Stock Heads, Teflon coat Pistons, Valves & Combustion chambers, Comp Retro lifters, Comp push rods & springs, Custom Bullet Cam 228/236 510/533 @ 112lsa, Callies Dragonslayer Crank, Eagle H-Beam 6" rods, JE Blower pistons 9.8 CR with C/A Rings, Melling HV Oil Pump, All Arp Studs & Bolts. That is most of the big stuff on the motor build up. I am using a Vortech S-Trim W/ Aftercooler and am hoping for 600 RWHP

 

I don't like the cam: too much overlap and not enough "split" between the intake and exhaust duration. The CR is also high for major boost on pump fuel. But since it's already done, why do you ask?

Rich Krause

 

Rich, I understand your concern and have talked with the engine builder doing my shortblock and headwork numerous times about building this motor. Our thinking is based on my old 355 with 8lbs boost ,10.25 CR 12 degrees overlap and no split on intake and exhaust on the old cam. I was making 475 to 500 rwhp with the old motor. We are lowering the CR to 9.8 and the coating of all combustion surfaces along with all the headwork we should be OK. I know the CR seems a little high but I like all the torque this motor will make plus the boost will probably drop to 6lbs. With the overlap I think I can get away with the higher CR. The guy doing my shortblock has done a lot of blown motors and is highly recommended in this area so I feel pretty comfortable. I guess I'll find out shortly how this will work out and I don't mind taking a gamble. We have run all the numbers through a couple of desktop dyno programs and have come up with some good numbers. I will post when I get it running, hopefully in a few weeks.