Bob,
The cfm rating on those fans is 2780 cfm

Marc

 

Here's what I did on the bluez:

http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/front2.jpg

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Live for TAs
...I've read a few other threads here where guys have opened up the front plate & fog lamp area of their TAs for more airflow, and it looks like I may go this route.


Pics of my front mount are at www.geocities.com/marc94z/intercooler.html

Marc

 

I looked over the Spal fans as well, and they make a 12" puller (#30102038, I think the new # is 30100176) rated at 1630 cfm. Two of these would give you 3260 cfm. They are 3.7" deep.

The same page references the 11" fans mentioned here. They are spec'd as being 16.26" high, 4.25" deep, 23.46" wide, and rated at 2780 cfm.

The next issue is where to buy Spal? I did a Google search & found the dual 11" for $250 plus shipping at Slick Car.com . This same website did not list the 30102038 fan, but had a 12" puller with the same rating (30100176) for $150. I found both at Performance Depot.com with the dual 11" being $250 & the single 12" being $113.

I'd really like to get a firm # for the stock fans so far as cfm goes so as to do a valid comparison. Couldn't find it anywhere online.

If I remember correctly from the RX7 experience, I think I had determined you needed like 4000 cfm for adequate small block cooling with AC.

I find it is interesting to hear the variety of experiences here. What I'm afraid of is this:

Since he is in Alabama and it is hot there like here in the summer.

The only concern I have with opening up the front end is reversion- air coming in the front and bypassing the IC/Radiator out the bottom. This probably would not happen due to the design of the car, but I know airflow can be challenging.

I should have the IC here by next week, and will post some pics once I get it mounted.

 

4000 cfm is way over what the stocks would flow and the lt1 is a sbc...

 

I found that I had two Perma-Cool 19114 14" fans and a couple of brand-X 10" fans left over from the RX7 experiments (I rarely throw anything away ). The 14" fans are too big to mount on the stock shroud, BUT based on the info from the Perma-Cool website, these fans use the same motor as the 12" 19008, so I should be able to buy two of the 12" fan blades ($25 each) and swap them onto my 14" motors and then adapt the brackets to fit the LT1 shroud. If this works, I should be able to get 3300 cfm for about $50 . As it turns out, one of the housings on my stock fan was cracked in two places, so it needs to be replaced anyway.

It also looks like I could mount a 10" as a pusher in front of the condenser on the driver's side, which would help with the AC. I'm mounting my oil cooler on the passenger side, otherwise I could mount two 10" fans here.

I'll update here if I go this route.

 

I was reading the Flex-a-Lite specs in the Summit catalog, and here is how they break down cooling capacity for their fans:
12" single (1250 cfm)
125 HP, 100 HP with AC

12" dual (2500 cfm) part #220 as mentioned in this thread
250 HP, 200 with AC

Black Magic (15") 2800 cfm
260 HP, 225 with AC

Using these figures, they calculate you need 1250 cfm per 100 HP with AC. Since the LT1 came with AC and 275-305 HP, if we use 300 HP with AC, we need 3750 cfm according to Flex-a-Lite's math.

For real-world examples, we know TonyJ has over 600 RWHP (blown with a FMIC and no AC in Colorado) and is adequately cooled with the #220 AND the HD electric water pump. Using the Flex-a-Lite numbers for him, he would need a whopping 6000 cfm (600HP / 125= 4.8 x 1250=6000), but is getting by with 2500.

We also know Silverzz28 has 600 RWHP (on juice, no IC, with AC in Alabama) and is inadequately cooled (in hot weather) with the same fan/waterpump setup.

This says a lot for the climate we drive in.

I suspect the stock fans probably flow more than we think, and this is why I'd like to get the cfm numbers for them.

 

I dont feel the stock fans flow that much... with the a/c i had problems with cooling..

Remember the car doesn't make HP at idle and there is where it usually are problems... With the A/C on i would start to get in trouble...

Im not pretty sure the stockers flow that well from what i feel from them.. i believe 2500cfm is quite a lot air... I guess we'll see..

 

Click for the pic!

The fan was a pretty easy install. I bolted one side to the lower radiator support & one side to the aluminum tab on the condenser. I used rubber-bonded washers on it & the cooler to absorb vibration. I tested the fan & can feel some air on the radiator side, so it should help.

What I'm planning on doing with the fans is to use the + wire from the stock fans as a trigger input on a relay that will power the three fans, and wire all three to run at the same time. The 12" Perma-Cools draw 7.5 amps each. I don't know what the 11" pusher draws, but it can't be any more than that, so a 30 amp relay should work OK.

I went ahead & ordered two of the Perma-Cool 12" puller fans since my 14" fan brackets were pretty mangled from fitting on the RX7. They should be here next week.

I would probably have the motor in the car by now if I could get some 2.25" ARP bolts for the pressure plate . I had to go to two different vendors to find them. I hope they will be here this week, so I can battle with the motor/suspension/T56 this weekend.

 

Can you PM with a link or part number for the ARP bolts on the pressure plates?

Thanks

 

Well I have been waiting to get into this thread until i got my new be cool radiator installed. Now I installed it with the stock fans and ATI 12 rib supercharger. The clearance is close but I moved the fans to the other side of the fan shroud and it worked out, my temps where 220 or more on 95 degree days and climbing I would have to turn on my heater to stop the temp from climbing. Now after the install with the air-conditioning on my temps only go to 180-190,this is on a 97 degree day.

 

How about some pics?

 

Best news I've heard all week .

 

Has anyone else removed the hood weather stripping where it meets the cowl? I did this a 18 months ago and it seems to help, especially with heat soak. Its no miracle but you can see the heat rising out of it. My car has the stock fans and radiator with a regular mez. water pump and it usually says below 200 in traffic. I have been seeing some 190+ IAT's though, I hope the aftercooler help lower the IAT and water temps.

 

the aftercooler will sure drop those temps to 100F but it will not drop the ECT.. just the IAT.