For some reason I have been having trouble as far as not receiving email notifications.

I ran out of 90 degree/180 degree bends and only had some 45 degree stuff (which I am using for the last part of the DP (which goes over and down the back of the k-member). Now, to explain all the "hacked" up pieces: I made a 90 degree (which is more like a 70 degree bend) out of 2 pieces as you can clearly see. I knew where I wanted it to go as far as where in front of the k-member it should be located. I then used a pieces to connect the 90 degree to the piece that had the vband welded on. The piece on the other side of the 90 degree will connect to a 45 degree piece. I'll post more pics tomorrow night when I try and finish it up. Thanks.

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=PPB

they have some s/s bends with tight radius. their steel ones arent as sharp.

I got a couple for my twin project.

 

Thanks for the link. Check this one out for future reference too:

http://store.racing-solutions.org/index.html

 

looking good man!!! you need to get that tight radius bend for the downpipe..lol I am going to PM you a site I use, they have about any size mandrel bend you can think of in any material you want in about any radius that is possible to bend the diameter your wanting.. its good stuff and they are good to deal with!

Chris

 

send it to me too

thanks

 

You may also want to try a schedule 10 or schedule 40 cast 90. You can cast something in a much tighter radius than you can bend it (although no matter how smooth the tight radius in and off itself is a flow restriction). The cast bends are normally cheap.

 

You guys think its a big deal (tight bend) for a car that will be in 550-600rwhp area?

Chris, thanks for the PM.

 

it probably wont make much diffrence.....

but the first thing everone who looks at your work will think or say is what happend there.... for the 25$ for a nice clean looking bend i think it would be well worth it.. all your other work looks great and that bend takes away from all your other work.

but at the same time i am a perfectionist. even if its hidden and i know its jimmied i have to fix it lol... even if i am the only one who would ever see it.

 

The only thing is I needed a super tight turn like that for fitment. I dont know if they make a 3" pipe with a small enough bend radius. Oh well...thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

 

RealQuick, you have a PM

 

That s/s pipe i posted has a super tight radius... it looks as if it would fit no problem... i ended up buying two for my twin project because my u bends were too loose of a radius. my whole kit is alumized after the turbos but i figured the s/s section would be ok in there...

 

Stainless steel 3.00" diameter, 120 degree mandrel bent elbow. Tight 3" center line radius with 6" legs.

so it sticks out 1 1/2" past the inside of the tube after you cut it to 90deg. you wont get much tighter than that

also they ship super quick.... just dont buy their v band clamps unless you plan on doing some diegrinding.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind.

 

you think you could have made the kit without the damn pipes going under the swaybar though? I would hate to lose even a inch of ground clearence...

 

The cross over pipes actually dip under the high parts of the sway bar, so they arent any lower than the K-member. The DP is ~2 inches below the K-member.