^^ I ran et drags on the street for a while.....

I think you will be fine, just start slow and work your way up. Its not like we are talking about another 300 shot or something.

 

Ben-

Like others have said, you will get the biggest gains from the nitrous in the lower RPM range, where you don't have full boost yet. I don't think you will get as good of gains in the upper RPM. Most guys use the nitrous like this to get the car out of the hole faster, not to go faster on the top end. The area under the curve gets a huge gain when adding nitrous on top of boost.

 

This would probably be how I would do it, only I was thinking 3rd gear instead of 2nd. Thanks for the info Rich, as always you have a plethera of knowledge I feel lucky enough to tap into from now and then.

Button on the shifter would work, but its not really what I would like ideally. I'd rather have it setup to come on in a certain gear. As for spraying with the meth, I believe someone told me I would be okay in doing this. Why do you say you "wouldn't reccomend doing" it?

As for your Turbo comment, I can't argue with the awesome power of a Turbo, but for my setup I am just looking for a simple way to get me some gains up top

I am aware there are other DR's out there that hook better than the Nitto's. However the I prefer the Nitto's because they actually have some tread on them (this is why they don't hook as well as others). The tread makes them last at least a little while for me compared to going through street tires like I go through socks (lol). Not to mention I've seen and heard of too many guys picking up nails in their extra sticky tires on the street when they run something similar to the MT ET streets, or the BFG DR's. This car is driven 95% of the time on the street, so I'd rather keep a good medium between something that hooks, vs something that will last and not have to constantly worry about picking up a nail. For me Nitto's fit the bill perfectly, and I am not going to change.

Well, the thing is that it doesn't really have a "dead spot" down low. It floats up so quickly in 1st, I don't know really how much could be gained unless I drasticly increased my traction (which may happen with slicks for the track). I was more thinking about just increasing the speed of the 1/4 mile capability of the car by spraying in 3rd and 4th, but maybe as you say it won't benefit me all that much. You make an excellent point and it will definatly be something else to consider.

Here's a vid of the car 1st through 4th in its current setup. (it starts at 50 seconds into the vid)

Click here to see Video

 

I use it with water/methanol injection and have no issues. It will still pull harder up top, but not as much gain as in the midrange. Still, I am sure you will see and feel improvements with a 100hp shot activated in 2nd or 3rd at WOT.

Rich

 

How much was too much??

 

Thanks Rich. Do you think I would be alright with staying with my Autolite 3922's?

Well, once you get detonation, I would say its too much The ideal way to find out I imagine would be to start with a timing level that you know will be safe, then slowly advance it little by little until you see yourself getting close to running too lean. At that point you could back it off a degree and probably be set. This is all my guess, as I have never done it before, but it seems like the logical way to go about it.

 

subscribing ood onfo thanks

 

I know my FJO controller would do a gear based setup by reading the rpms and after it hit a certain point it would engage....

Example - first gear lockout
-set rpm enable for 6000
-run it to 6500
-shift - tach drops below 6000
-nitrous is now armed when you get back in the throttle on the next gear - Althought I dont' know how a big stall would react or do.

 

Right around 28 to 31 deg on premium pump gas with water/meth alone. I'm suspecting it was timing related, but couldn't rule out too tight of ring gap's either. It was wierd cause both cracked the 2nd lands. Tops of pistons looked ok though. As fragile as the material is that the SRP's are made of, i figure it could have been either cause, but since i was running that much, i leaned towards timing. Now running JE's with around 18 to 21 deg total with the addition of a FMIC and wider ring gaps and it runs harder then it ever did. Would like to take it to the dyno now and compare before and after numbers. Although i don't think it would show the full effects of the FMIC on a dyno, would be curious to see how it compares to my previous dyno run. Basically the same setup as before with the addition of the FMIC, less timing, wider ring gaps, and the loss of 1psi due to the IC.

Ken R

 

running my F1 little above max impeller speed, 26 degrees timing from 4000-> pulling 2 degrees for a 100shot N20, The MA685 cuts it off at 6800rpm.
Have done this for aprox 25-30 runs 2007 widhout problems.
(50/50 E85/pumpgas and M25 nozzels water/meth (25/75) at aprox 90psi)
Running NGK8s

 

Thanks for the info fella's. Anyone else have anything else to add? What about my plugs (Autolite 3922's)? Will they be cold enough?

 

I don't know Autolites too well. Which number representts the heat range and how close to full cold is it?

Rich

 

Sorry, I've not been online for a few days. Like someone already mentioned adding 12V to the Pink wire will activate the timing retard. It is adjustable up to 9.9 degrees. Here is a link to the Digital 6 instruction sheet.

http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/frm23775_6520.pdf