Thats what i've found. Don't know how different a dry from a wet shot would be, but what ever i've jetted at hp wise, it always made more power vs when i've had the same jetting on my NA setup. I think cause you get the added cooling effect while spraying. Your plug gap should be good also. An on the fly timing adjustment seems like it would be your best bet too. I leave a non nitrous tune in when i'm not at the track cause spraying on the street is almost a losing battle. Even under boost alone it's rough. I pull a few deg at the track with a different tune and also spray it out of the hole. Thats where you'll see the most benifit. The nitrous is making a lot of its power while the charger is coming up on it, so its a nice compliment and ends up making a lot of power under the curve.

Ken R.

 

Thanks Ken. As stated previously though I am already on the "edge" of traction in 1st and 2nd gear, so any more power down low, and it would be wasted in spinning. Really just thinking about in 3rd and 4th to kick up the MPH.

Any more info anyone?

 

You might even lose it in 3rd spraying, even with drag radials. You would really see huge benifits at the track though. I dropped right around 1.3 seconds spraying a 150 shot on 10psi with my old s-trim setup given around the same 60ft times on the same day. Never got a chance to get out after my t-trim upgrade cause i cracked 2 SRP's running too much timing on the street. By the time i got it back together, the track was about closed and it was too cold. So i added a FMIC also in the meantime, got my timing figured out and now just waiting for the track to reopen in a month.

Ken R.

 

If I do this, maybe I'll start with a 75 shot in 3rd, and see how it reacts on the street before jumping on a 100 shot.

Anymore info from anyone on changing the timing with my digital 6? Or anything else I need to know?

 

As I do this, I am more than just speculating! You will want to have a separate "nitrous" tune with less timing. The fuel "tuning" with a wet kit should be done with changing jet sizes, but that is also "tuning" so you certainly do need a "tune". You can fire very cold plugs with a halfway decent ignition syste, I use an Opti/MSD box and MSD coil and it has no trouble firing an "11" heat range NGK with no fouling issues using a 0.035" gap (which is what I recommend). A bit of nitrous is a FANTASTIC boost for a centrfigual setup. Where the blower is a bit weak is where the nitrous is strong (mid range). Really helps in a heavy car. Hard on parts though, so be sure you have good parts properly set up.

Rich

 

Rich,

The 383 is fully forged with all the top notch parts like Lunati (sledgehammer crank) and Oliver (billet rods), along with custom forged diamond pistons with a CR of 8.8:1. It should take the juice and smile for more. I am running Autolite 3323 (I think) with .032 gap and have the stock opti with a MSD Digital 6 ignition box.

If you are saying I need a "tune" are you refferring to another dyno tune on the spray? If so, won't that kill my potential power/speed I currently have when I am off the spray (which in reality will be most of the time)? Or are you talking about "tune" as in like the rest of the guys on here are saying as I can "tune" it myself by finding a way to retard the timing a few notches before I spray, and then being able to bring it back up when I am off the spray?

 

I thought you were happy with your power level?

 

Your box should be able to do some of that stuff too.

What is wierd though is the Mallory box is cheaper, does more stuff I think, and has the lil digital display thats cool lol.

And yeah. generaly on boosted applications a shot rated at a certain power will actually give more.

Its got to be hard as hell on stuff. lol

 

You could keep your dynotune you already have and just pull some timing with your ignition box. Your AFR can be adjusted with different jets but can be done street tuning with your wideband. Just find some podunk airfield somewhere and OK it with the airfield manager. Most of them get a kick out of watching me "tune".

 

I am, as I can hook (barely) in 1st gear with my power level. However, I figure this would gain me a bit on the top. If this happens, it won't be any time soon (probably not at all). I am more or less just toying with the idea, and seeing what all would be involved if I did do it.

For what little would need to be done, it is definatly tempting

I haven't done any tuning, however I do know what to look for, and it sounds like it would be fairly easy just to take out some timing, spray while I watch the wideband, then adjust the timing accordingly, all while staying on the safe side of things.

I am still confused about how the MSD digital 6 can take out timing though. I never really touched it since its been installed. How do I advance or retard the timing with it?

 

I don't think you will get a lot out of the wideband. I do not believe there is a way to calibrate it for nitrous. Just use the correct jets. You will need to pull timing, if your ignition box can do it then you don't need a separate PCM tune for spray. The N2O can be setup to activate when you hit second. A switch can be adapted to the shifter or you can set it up with a manually operated button. I have never set up one exactly like that, but I think it wouldn't be too dificult.

Rich

 

On a MSD Digital 6 box, when you apply 12 volts to the pink wire, it activates the timing retard, pulling timing up to 9.9 degrees. This is adjustable using the two "step retard" adjustments on the box.

 

Button on the shifter would probably work great for you, along with an arming switch. You can set it up to pull timing with the ignition box when the button is pushed if you wish.

Are you going to spray meth/nitrous together? Not something I would recommend doing.

I don't think I'd want to spray it on pump gas thats for sure!

Lastly, just to give ya sh*t, if you had a turbo, you could add the extra 100rwhp in 3rd that ya need on the fly, without nitrous lol.

 

Typically, you would want to wire the timing retard to the nitrous system so that anytime the system is "active", timing is being pulled.

Ben, have you ever trird a different set of tires? Not saying that the Nittos you run aren't good tires, but you may find something even better without going to an actual racing slick...ET Street tires have worked well for me. If you can maintain enough traction to spray your car off the line, you'll obviously see the greatest gains, as the nitrous will "wake up" the blower in the lower rpms where it needs it.

 

FWIW, ET "Streets" ARE racing slicks. They just have a few very narrow grooves cut in them so that they meet the DOT tecnicalities for a "street" tire. Otherwise, they are EXACTLY the same as an ET Drag. Their main use is therefore race classes which require a "DOT" tire. Some people will drive them on the street, I regard this as foolish, dangerous, and expensive (they sure wear out quick if you street drive them). They are absolutely, positively not a street tire.

Rich