Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

383 LT1 w/ P600B & Nitrous

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 9, 2003 | 12:46 AM
  #1  
SantaCruz163's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 886
From: Connecticut
383 LT1 w/ P600B & Nitrous

In the future I plan on building up an LT1. For starters I plan on using a Scat forged 383 crankshaft. Eagle 6" Forged H Beam connecting rods. I'm not sure what i should use for pistons if I plan on running a 17psi (give or take) procharger, with a possible 200 shot. I plan on using LT4 heads with 2.02 and 1.60 valves. I'm not too sure what cam to use. I was thinking of using a Lunati Roller Series kit, but unsure of the specs I need. For rocker arms I'd probably use 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers, I'm unsure which stub i need for LT4 heads. Those are my basic plans this far. Any help would be helpful.
Old May 9, 2003 | 02:17 AM
  #2  
TimbrSS's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 392
From: Columbus, Ohio
A p600 will have a hard time putting more than 12# on a motor like you described.

You will want to run a 5.7 rod, it will give you more "meat" in the pistons.
Lots of people happy using JE blower pistons.
It'd be a good idea to get your pistons coated


as far as the cam.. Prolly best to do a custom grind. You'll need to post more info like, how you drive it, tranny, etc.. do a search for cam, you'll find plenty of info.
Old May 9, 2003 | 06:45 AM
  #3  
rskrause's Avatar
Moderator
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
A lot of questions! Some quite specific and others much more general! No offense, but you sound pretty new at this. You will get a lot of info here, but I really urge you to talk to your engine builder about the nitty gritty details. And you really shouldn't start buying parts piecemeal. Many reputable shops won't use customer supplied parts, or at the least won't warrant the assembly if a customer supplied part fails. That's logical, 'cause they didn't make the profit on selling them. Others wll raise their price if the customer supplies the parts. This is to maintain their profit margin and cover warranty claims. Also, you'd be surprised how often parts purchased by an amatuer, even if knowledgable, are the wrong parts. So, I'd advise selecting the components along with the engine builder but having them get them for you.

Also, if you want specific answers, you need to post a lot more about how you plan to use the car. Street, street/strip, daily driver, weekend cruiser, etc. What gas is available. Do you plan to keep emissions equipment and does it need to pass an emissions inspection. If so, is it visual or a tailpipe, etc. What work will you yourself, and how much will you farm out. That kind of thing.

Anyway, as I am one of the few people running both N2O and a blower I have thought through a lot of this. I could therefore write a multipage essay on the subject. SInce I don't know exactly what you have in mind, I'll just give a few general principles that I have learned without a lot of rationale or specifics.

1. Use a low CR, on the order of 8-8.5:1
2. As far as heads go, concentrate on the exhaust side, though improvements on the intake side will help as well.
3. You will need a good exahust system to maximize gains.
4. The cam should be optimized for the blower. In general this means a big LSA (114-116 degrees) to avoid overlap and a big split between the exhaust and intake (on the order of 10-14 degrees).
5. You will need a hella good fuel system.
6. If you do use a large nitrous shot like the 200 horse shot you mention, don't run the nitrous with pump gas. I am big on keeping my car "clean and green" so my setup uses cats. I run 100 octane unleaded when I am spraying and this year (with more boost) will be running 104 octane unleaded.
7. Keep in mind when costing this out the things like the fuel system and drivetrain upgrades you will need. The P600 is a relatively small blower, but with a 200 horse shot you will be making >700 rwhp and over 800 ft.lbs at the wheels. The project can easily get out of hand. Ask me how I know .
8. Ceramic coated piston crowns are a good idea.
9. Strongly consider water injection. I attribute the longevity of my combo to use of water, among other things. My friend Bob Kennedy makes the only moderately pirced you should consider (www.kennedysdynotune.com). Carroll Supercharging makes an excellent setup, but it is very expensive. If you call either place, mention my name as they both know me well, especially Bob Kennedy!

Hope that gets you started. Welcome to select club of those who are stroked, blown, and juiced

Rich Krause

Last edited by rskrause; May 9, 2003 at 06:48 AM.
Old May 9, 2003 | 09:16 AM
  #4  
94 NO TOP Z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 393
From: NASHVILLE, TN
That P600 will probably only put out a maximum of 10 psi out on a 383 with good flowing heads. Will need to go to a bigger blower if you want more boost. D1 will give you a few more pounds of boost, F1 a little more.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
bandit383lt4
Parts For Sale
0
Dec 21, 2014 09:12 PM
cristian1311
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Nov 23, 2014 02:22 PM
Queens94z28
LT1 Based Engine Tech
5
Nov 20, 2014 06:03 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:51 AM.